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Use what's listed in your owners manual.
The F-Type oil has nothing to do with your car..
Originally Posted by iownme
but its the same engine
i have an f type as well
For the first time I can recall in more than fifty years, both my current Jaguars require the IDENTICAL engine oil:
SAE 0W-20 meeting Jaguar Land Rover specification STJLR.03.5006 or STJLR.51.5122.
I determined this from the specification sections of the Owner's Handbooks and ordered a supply of compliant Castrol Edge Professional EC 0W-20 to cover the next two changes on both vehicles.
Check the recommended SPECIFICATION for each of your vehicles then go for a compliant brand of choice.
The same engine doesn't necessarily mean identical lubricant requirements. During WW2 the Rolls Royce Merlin V12 engine powered the Supermarine Spitfire and Hawker Hurricane fighters but was also used in the Crusader and Cromwell tanks. The tanks required a very different viscosity engine oil.
I live in St. Augustine Beach and the shop that takes care of my 2009 Jag XF Supercharged swears by Wolfs Head Full Synthetic, been using it in mine for two oil changes, also changed the coolant. Wolf’s Head is produced in Tampa, it costs about the same as Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil and Valvoline. Car purrs like a kitten
if in your opinion being a moderator on a website makes one knowledgable i must run not walk elsewhere for advice.
in fact, i'll follow my own advice and use the same oil i use in the F type as its the same engine, not one argument here for me think its not the perfect oil or not the same engine.
specs are for the college edumacted.
even a dummy like me knows where i can find the specs.
Originally Posted by Jssaab;[url=tel:2553163
2553163]See GGG post above (he is a moderator and therefore be pretty knowledgable don;t you think?
SAE 0W-20 meeting Jaguar Land Rover specification STJLR.03.5006 or STJLR.51.5122.
I bought Motul speicifc sound on line for a good price
For what it's worth, I think I'm going to try Ravenol 5W-20 (J1A1503 for 1 liter & J1A1504 for 5 liters) when I'm done putting my car back together. BlauParts sells it.
if in your opinion being a moderator on a website makes one knowledgable i must run not walk elsewhere for advice.
in fact, i'll follow my own advice and use the same oil i use in the F type as its the same engine, not one argument here for me think its not the perfect oil or not the same engine.
specs are for the college edumacted.
even a dummy like me knows where i can find the specs.
If a dummy can do it, why not you?
And yes a moderator has seen more psots than you have I am sure...
you are here for free advice , Feel free to leave,
We went thru this on the XJ forum and found 3 oils that meet the newer spec.
So we've got at least 3 options, that meet the 5122 spec, at reasonable price :
Liqui-Moly Special Tec LR 0W-20
Mobil 1 ESP x2 0W20
Motul Specific 5122
Reaxions are you going back to 5W-20? Jaguar has changed the old recommendation to 0W-20 now?
The 5W-20 Ravenol meets Jaguar Land Rover STJLR.03.5004 which is different spec?
What's interesting is Ravenol 0W-20 DOES meet the newer Jaguar Land Rover STJLR.51.5122 spec. So that's another oil that qualifies!
Liqui Moly 22046 Top Tec 6600 SAE 0W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Liter
You can get it on Amazon. Meets the latest JLR spec. I think its better then the LR Specific Liqui Moly oil as it carries the latest spec for many other mfgs.
I was referring to my handy-dandy, but old-as-hell, Excel spreadsheet and the oil info probably wasn't up to date, but I do remember thinking that it was Ravenol I'd likely use. I usually check for the latest info prior to ordering, but with all of the work I'm doing, I'll probably run a sacrificial oil cycle for less than 500 miles to clean up anything which might've contaminated the engine parts, including using some BG and/or Liqui Moly cleaning products, and then refill again. I actually pulled the small oil pan while doing the timing chain and used a lot of Sea Foam spray to try to clean up any gunk in the reachable recesses of the engine. I even sprayed some into the spark plug holes prior to installing the new ones. It's had plenty of time to drip out onto the ground (steel tray), so as long as I make sure the intake valves are completely closed prior to cleaning, it should all be pretty clean at the end of the day. I just bought a walnut shell blaster and fine shells from Harbor Freight, as well as about $500 in other cleaning/scrubbing-type products from there - which is probably about the only stuff I'd really feel comfortable buying from HF to use on anything I care about. But, I'd imagine plenty of airborne dust is still getting in there, and I even found a dead bug stuck to a timing chain, so I'll definitely be doing a cleaning cycle. I'm a little nervous about letting the engine sit empty of oil and coolant for so long, though. I'll also run a coolant flush before putting the final coolant back in. I've cleaned off all of the oxidation on the aluminum parts (charge cooler, timing chain covers, etc.) and rubbed down the aluminum with some Marvel Mystery Oil to try to prevent any additional oxidation on the parts (especially on the internal sides), so I hope that'll be enough.
Side note... I've got an Amsoil dealer about a half mile from my house and always use it on my Audi (especially with the member discount), and even though I'm not even sure if it even meets the correct specs, after watching the Project Farm oil showdown on YouTube, I'm really tempted by their Signature Series for my XFR.
Last edited by Reaxions; Sep 11, 2022 at 10:26 PM.
I have been driving Jags since 2002 and have used several different oil brands, they all work just fine. Whether you use Liquimolly, Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline or my new favorite, Wolfs Head full synthetic, which is formulated in the Tampa area and in another life was primarily used in racing engines. My 09 XF Supercharged 4.2 just got 24.9 MPG at 85MPH on a 1200 mile trip.
I have found a really good shop where the wrenches swear by Wolfs Head, since my Jag is a Florida Jag, it works for me.
As much as I love Jaguars, let’s all face facts, they plummet in value. The block in the 4.2 came from Ford. It is a great engine, sold my 17 XF to buy this 09 gem. Any brand of quality synthetic oil that has data to back up their product will work. Just stick with what is being used in your preowned Jag when you buy it.
The 4.2L is a completely different engine from the 5.0L?
No comparison and they use different oils too. If you think the oil company will pay for your timing tensioner problems good luck and post back when you receive the check!
Reaxions if you do a coolant flush and cleaning I have started using an Evaporust product called Thermocure. If your not familiar with Evaporust it's a great product for removing rust without any damage. Thermocure is a similar but different product to clean the cooling system. I used it on a Ford Coyote 5.0L V-8 I was recently working on.
That engine is also an all Aluminum design and with the modern Aluminum radiators I am not seeing any build up in these late model all Aluminum engines. I ran it for a week and drove about 200 miles to give it plenty of time to work. I drained and collected the fluid but there was nothing to see? It looked about thew same as when I put it in the engine. Surprised me because with +150K miles on the engine I expected some junk?
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Engine oil is not worth arguing about, read the label, pretty simple. All the oils I mentioned in my previous thread have been used based on what the Jags I purchased had in them when purchased and all guarantee their product. We have never ever had any kind of engine failure based on oil brand, period. Call your Jag dealer like I have on several occasions. Every oil I have used on my Jags has been approved by the dealer. Paying $350 at the dealer to change oil vs. paying my local expert certified wrench $125 is a no brainer. Most importantly just do the maintenance on your Jag, they will thank you for it. I have driven more than 250k miles on the 4 Jags we have had with the 4.2, not gonna name the two dealerships, but both have told me from 2007-2009 the last made 4.2 engines were the best Jag ever built. No argument from me. However, my next Jag will be the 5.0 engine, it just will be from 2014 onward based on what wrenches at both Jag dealers suggested. You would think after the tensioner problems with the 4.0 engines Jag would have learned their lesson. Sad. Still love them, but always check with two trust3d Jag dealer sources and my own wrench before pulling the trigger on buying one.
The 4.2L is a completely different engine from the 5.0L?
No comparison and they use different oils too. If you think the oil company will pay for your timing tensioner problems good luck and post back when you receive the check!
Reaxions if you do a coolant flush and cleaning I have started using an Evaporust product called Thermocure. If your not familiar with Evaporust it's a great product for removing rust without any damage. Thermocure is a similar but different product to clean the cooling system. I used it on a Ford Coyote 5.0L V-8 I was recently working on.
That engine is also an all Aluminum design and with the modern Aluminum radiators I am not seeing any build up in these late model all Aluminum engines. I ran it for a week and drove about 200 miles to give it plenty of time to work. I drained and collected the fluid but there was nothing to see? It looked about thew same as when I put it in the engine. Surprised me because with +150K miles on the engine I expected some junk?
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I'll look into the Thermocure. Thanks for recommending!!!
