Failed Crossover Pipe = Overheat = Dropped Valve Seat
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From: Houston
These posts always make me feel even better that I proactively replaced all the plastic pipes in the cooling system. Did you do the front and rear crossovers? If not, you'll be doing this over again. The thermostat housing is a ticking time bomb too. But it all needs to be replaced.
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From: Austin, Texas
Timing was very straight forward, Set the marks and take the chain off, going back together was easier because the timing marks are on the chain.
The special tool for locking the cams was unnecessary and unneeded, and the tool to tension the sprocket was unneeded and not used, large channel locks did the job to get the last bit of slack out of the chain so the tensioner would fully lock to take out any and all slack in the chain.
If you have any experience in timing chains this wont be an issue or confusing and if this is your first, great one to learn on.
The fun part was the crank pulley... thanks to the comment about using a longer bolt in place of a torque converter bolt to hold the crank saved me.
If you need more detail let me know!
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From: Austin, Texas
These posts always make me feel even better that I proactively replaced all the plastic pipes in the cooling system. Did you do the front and rear crossovers? If not, you'll be doing this over again. The thermostat housing is a ticking time bomb too. But it all needs to be replaced.
Absolutely replaced all of the plastic as well as all of the gaskets during the process, usually do this to every car I own, replace, maintain and repair everything under the hood first then worry about the rest.
I purchased the vehicle broken so wasnt able to do any preventative maintenance.
Last edited by Kenika65; Jul 25, 2018 at 09:37 PM.
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From: Austin, Texas
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From: Germany
Which tools you used to achieve this spec values ?
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Ulrich
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First I had to polish the head portion of the crank bolt that touches the crank pulley because im sure the Jag Dealer that had the pulley off 10k ago to replace the timing system boogered it up during install from not using their special tool.
Once I removed all of the roughness out of the bolt head that touches the pulley I added Anti-Seize and was able to press in the pulley with about 7-10 intervals.
The Anti-Seize would stop working after about 3 half turns and then I would remove the bolt repolish if necessary then add Anti-Seize untill it was completely Bottomed out.
With the Anti-Seize it was easy to turn, then it would get hard to turn so, reapplied and it was easy to turn again.
Then was the fun part, my torque wrenches only went to 300 ft lb which after tightening to that. I think anyone would agree that is more than tight enough.
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 132
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From: Germany
Hell NO.... haha I had fun, it kicked my azz...
First I had to polish the head portion of the crank bolt that touches the crank pulley because im sure the Jag Dealer that had the pulley off 10k ago to replace the timing system boogered it up during install from not using their special tool.
Once I removed all of the roughness out of the bolt head that touches the pulley I added Anti-Seize and was able to press in the pulley with about 7-10 intervals.
The Anti-Seize would stop working after about 3 half turns and then I would remove the bolt repolish if necessary then add Anti-Seize untill it was completely Bottomed out.
With the Anti-Seize it was easy to turn, then it would get hard to turn so, reapplied and it was easy to turn again.
Then was the fun part, my torque wrenches only went to 300 ft lb which after tightening to that. I think anyone would agree that is more than tight enough.
by a longer bolt ? No need to have JLR special tools ?
Why you didn't renew the center bolt as proposed ?
Regards
Ulrich
Last edited by f-driver; Jul 29, 2018 at 03:47 AM.
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From: Austin, Texas
Yes I fixed the crankshaft by removing a torque converter bolt on the access hole on the driver side and inserting a longer bolt, this let me loosen and tighten the crankshaft bolt without any special tool.
I did remove the driver side catalytic converter to get access to the torque converter access hole.
The crankshaft bolt and most bolts that are holding together parts on engines are torque to yield, which means they stretch when you perform the final degree of tightening in the torqueing process.
From experience, most torque to yield bolts wont break when retorqued even with the final degree is performed which stretches the bolt.
But understand any and all service manuals will require you to replace all torque to yield bolt due to the possibility of them breaking after being stretched more than once.
This is a chance many Technicians take but with good judgement, example on most caliper to caliper bracket bolts which are like 13mm head size bolts they are torque to yield which is why they usually come with the brake pads because most of the time they break just trying to loosen them and from experience you learn not to reuse such a small torque to yield bolt because it cant take more than one stretch.
But in this case the Crank bolt is huge and very unlikely to break especially when the plan was never to perform the final degree torque to yield stretch because 300 ft lb is extremely tight and not an easy task to perform on its own.
If you insist on replacing the Crank bolt, dont install the new bolt untill the crank pulley is completely pressed on to the crank, this will prevent any damage to the new bolt that may be caused during the install process.
I enjoy the questions and hope I am able to help others get their projects back on the road so please ask away!
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