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I drove with my 2013 XF AWD and heard a slight noise above 2500rpm, slowed down and parked it. Checked oil and got - add 0.5L, them did that. Luckily i had an OBD diagnostic tool and got the following code „P0333-022 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2). Drove about 20 minutes home not exceeding 2000rpm. The noise started being louder and louder. Now it's in the garage and loud. I recently uploaded a tune from Velocity AP. I thought could be related and tried the original tune and the other one. Still the same. A day later my mechanic gave me an update: metal shaving at the oil filter but none in the oil pan - its a pain to remove the oil pan on the AWD model so he drained and checked the oil first. According to him somewhat 'good' news. He will proceed to replace both knock sensors and keep me posted. I hope it‘s not something serious like a blown engine 🙈 Any ideas? Piston rod? Supercharger isolator? Since the rhytm is slow - valves? Crank would be a faster rhytm?
Unfortuantely it's difficult to find similar sounds since the engine is rattly/noisy by nature...
Any input would be much appreciated
I drove with my 2013 XF AWD and heard a slight noise above 2500rpm, slowed down and parked it.
Checked oil and got - add 0.5L, them did that.
Luckily i had an OBD diagnostic tool and got the following code „P0333-022 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2).
Drove about 20 minutes home not exceeding 2000rpm.
The noise started being louder and louder. Now it's in the garage and loud.
I recently uploaded a tune from Velocity AP. I thought could be related and tried the original tune and the other one. Still the same.
A day later my mechanic gave me an update: metal shaving at the oil filter but none in the oil pan - its a pain to remove the oil pan on the AWD model so he drained and checked the oil first.
According to him somewhat 'good' news. He will proceed to replace both knock sensors and keep me posted. I hope it‘s not something serious like a blown engine 🙈
Any ideas? Piston rod? Supercharger isolator? Since the rhytm is slow - valves?
Crank would be a faster rhytm? Unfortuantely it's difficult to find similar sounds since the engine is rattly/noisy by nature...
Any input would be much appreciated
Which translates into.
Noise.
Low in oil.
Noise now LOUDER.
"Uploaded AP Tune." and em, did you test it, this tune?, I bet she flies. What were the revs on the test ride. Before the above?
"metal shaving at the oil filter but none in the oil pan"? Something broken and wearing. rod bearing?rod knock, just a guess!. "its a pain to remove the oil pan on the AWD model"?? Did he drain from the sump plug, or did he suck it out from the filler tube?
somewhat 'good' news. He will proceed to replace both knock sensors and keep me posted.! He is going to replace both knock sensors,!! while removing the supercharger and air cooler. see below! seems expensive if (should) the engine is (be found to be) terminal?
Knock sensors ringed in red.
I hope it‘s not something serious?
Hope spring eternal! An Essay on Man: Epistle I
BY ALEXANDER POPE Hope springs eternal in the human breast:
Man never is, but always to be blest:
The soul, uneasy and confin'd from home,
Rests and expatiates in a life to come.
This knock sensor replacement seems like a lot of work to Not find the reason/cause of the knocking noise coming from the engine.
Does the noise increase with engine revs, at say half speed?
How often do you change the oil?
can (mechanic) he not narrow the noise down, stethoscope, screw driver on the engine casing? etc.
Were not the XFR boys wiping bearing in the early days. 09/10/11 long oil change interval, low levels, high revs etc. see earlier posts.
"Uploaded AP Tune." and em, did you test it, this tune?, I bet she flies. What were the revs on the test ride. Before the above?
- it drove fine after uploading the tune (a few weeks back), a day or two before it happened i tried a "pops and bangs tune" (since i have the stock exhaust no effect), the normal tune and stock to test differences. It makes a difference after around 5k rpm - then she flew
"its a pain to remove the oil pan on the AWD model"?? Did he drain from the sump plug, or did he suck it out from the filler tube?
- afaik he drained the oil
Does the noise increase with engine revs, at say half speed?
- yeah, started a "fluttering" like sound when revs increased
How often do you change the oil?
- at the recommended dealers interval
can (mechanic) he not narrow the noise down, stethoscope, screw driver on the engine casing? etc.
- i will ask him, but afaik he already removed the supercharger to check the heads etc.
Engine rebuild for an AJ126S 2013 car very expensive. Original JLR Parts? Difficult, Chinese engine parts questionable. Providing you can find someone competent to do this.
New engine Very, Very Expensive, unless our friends from Eastern Europe find one? with low mileage second hand with known history Vin. Magically!
A New car, With the market poorly may be the cheapest option for replacement. The F types are looking good, if Sir has no need of all 4 seats.
i found some rebuild kits from the uk from around 2-3k (https://www.apexautoparts.co.uk/prod...guar-306ps-erp) and some others on ebay, and the ones from china seem to cheap to be good at 500-1k considering that only the crank normally costs over 1k.
Also i found another car in the same color (carnelian red) but with 125k miles...
A new engine is around 14k from exco https://www.exco.nl/de/ersatzteile/x...awd-neu-8565-p
used one in Switzerland around 15k - already got some offers
p.s i've just seen you are in Vaduz - bought my first XF 2010 3.0D there
i need 4 seats because of kids
About 100k miles, impeccable service history (bought and serviced at the same dealership) - that's why i bought it from the first owner
I'll wait for news from the mechanic and then decide which route to go.
Also considering the option to repair it in Germany, i've heard from a friend there is an Jag expert near the border
You may find the ones from the UK are made in China! OEM pattern!!, Like everything else. So unless you can confirm it is an original JLR heat treated and certificated crank . Then suspect a copy.
China is OK for seals, and joints, but for correctly machined internal engine components you would be taking a risk.
The German Jag expert, may only work with major JLR parts being supplied for a rebuild. (if he has any sense) and references for/of engine rebuilds would be required for that rebuild outlay.
100K miles, of JLR servicing. 12months/10kmiles? Depending on driving style town, motorway etc may be too long between oil changes as others have noted in previous posts.
But let's not get ahead of of ourselves. Let's see what the final result is from the mechanics investigation from the top. (Safe Moneys on a Spun bearing, IMHO.)
PS.
You could always sell the children, but even the second hand child market is badly down these days,.. Allegedly!
Latest offer was from a company based in germany: 10k for them to pick up the car, rebuild the engine and bring it back + 1 year warranty (probably chinese components)
I've also spoken to a guy who specializes in Jaguars and restaurations of older Jags. He told me it's almost impossible to get parts (even as a dealer) - unfortunately a new engine is the way to go. He also had customers with the same engine at around 50k or so km that were driving normally and all of a sudden the car had the same symptoms due to a faulty oil pump. Can't get my head around though why there was no check engine light, message on oil pressure, limp mode or similar...the car has like a thousand sensors built in.
Considering this and also the fact that the supercharger pulley has play, so the snout has to be replaced as well etc. i decided not to invest 20k+ in the car.
Worst case - some other issues would pop up. That's why i decided to sell the car as is.
Latest offer was from a company based in germany: 10k for them to pick up the car, rebuild the engine and bring it back + 1 year warranty (probably chinese components)
I've also spoken to a guy who specializes in Jaguars and restaurations of older Jags.
He told me it's almost impossible to get parts (even as a dealer) - unfortunately a new engine is the way to go.
He also had customers with the same engine at around 50k or so km that were driving normally and all of a sudden the car had the same symptoms due to a faulty oil pump.
Can't get my head around though why there was no check engine light, message on oil pressure, limp mode or similar...the car has like a thousand sensors built in.
Considering this and also the fact that the supercharger pulley has play, so the snout has to be replaced as well etc. i decided not to invest 20k+ in the car.
Worst case - some other issues would pop up. That's why i decided to sell the car as is.
"50k or so km that were driving normally and all of a sudden the car had the same symptoms due to a faulty oil pump?"
Really? Low oil pressure, low oil level, dirty oil. Yes, Faulty oil pump at 50K would be a JLR warrantee issue. and we would have heard about it on here.
Yes, moving it on or breaking for parts would be the way to go. Parts original JLR/LR would be best. and a knowledgeable mechanic to carry out the work.
Nether of which can be guaranteed.
There is a Low oil pressure and oil level alarms. But with slight wear due to some say excessive oil change intervals 10K miles, and high loads, high revs. One or more of the crank bearings may have micro seized and turned, blocking off the oil feed to that bearing. With oil pressure and an Oil level.
The rest is history.
If selling the engine, make sure to mention it was a spun crank bearing, and not over-heating CW loss damage. One of the AJ126S with overheating damage, and all the associated warped heads, and cracked engine casing, may be more interested in it for the mechanical parts.
Knocking AJ126 / Jaguar XF 2013 AWD v6 supercharged
