That SDD screen shot looks good! Everything is present and NO big ugly red X's either!
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I am by no means a professional nor do would i pretend to be one. This system and these cars are no joke, i do not in anyway discourage people from dipping their toes in the water!! However i will say with extreme caution!!! If you dont know about the electrical workings of these cars and your not the best with computers to just slow down, take your time and don't rush it because the outcome of that is equivalent to flipping a coin (brick your car or not).There is an endless supply of information out there so study and research research research also there are good people on these forums who can and will help. I have learned quite a bit during this and has inspired me to keep learning. If you choose the cracked and hacked method good luck matching software and cable to have full functionality with your specific male and model, that is one area I still have no clue about(makes my head spin) DO NOT use a standard battery charger get a legit power supply with a constant delivery not a ripple and float moad is NOT adequate. Other than that good luck try to have fun and enjoy the experience and feel free to message me if you have any questions, I will do my absolute best to give u answers and if I don't know it I can point u in a direction where u will get what ur looking for.
oh and most importantly don't pay any attention to the negative Nancy's. These cars were not built by NASA

 

where did u find this for $100?

 

internet. I got mine on ebay for under $100. But theyre $149 here Progressive RC

and corroded terminals really affect voltage levels and current. some systems are sensitive to voltage levels and corrosion adds resistance, a lot of steering wheel controls use diffent voltage levels for radio and other controls

 

thanks ill have to take a look on there because so far all im finding for that unit is rather expensive lol. Im pretty sure i cooked the one i got a week ago, since the other nights endeavor on sdd i havent been able to turn it on haha ooops just glad it didnt crap out in the middle of configuring a module

 

I also use the Iota-DLS-55. Got it used several years ago under $100 but mine had all the cable and clamps cut off so I had to spend about $25 adding good clamps and large gauge cables. They seem to have gone up a lot in price now!
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ya I had to put on a cord/plug (from an old extension cord) and cables with battery clamps (from a set of jumper cables I had). The screw in terminals on the unit make it really easy to install the cable. Plus because it has that phone jack plug on the case of the charger you can buy different modules to charge all sorts of different types of batteries in the modules only cost 15 to 20 bucks brand new, I’ve got a normal lead acid battery module and a AGM module, and they said the correct profiles up for the batteries depending on the charge state of the battery in the type of module they have installed. But if you do get one of those I alters one of the big keys is , you need to plug the charger in before connecting the cable to the battery and then disconnect the cables from the battery before you unplug the charger. It’s in their instructions.

 

those are the instructions that came with the unit? They sound back asswards and slightly unsafe. I sure wouldn't want an arc happening after running a long session on sdd and there still being 13+ volts on those clamps.
the one I bought is still kicking, i thought i killed it but upon taking the cover off to check for burnt marks or melted components i quickly seen why i all the sudden had no power

cheap little connection had popped off, once reconnected it worked perfectly. I bought 4 gauge battery cables and took the clamps off a set of jumpers. Im thinking of swapping out the AC cord for a longer one, the one on it is like a foot long which is ridiculous

 

Thanks Aarcuda but mine must be an early model as I have no phone jack. When looking for mine I did see some with a phone jack. Until you explained it I was confused on why they would install a phone jack on a DC power supply!

Also interesting about the order of connection because I never connect anything live including the IOTA to the car. Always have everything connected then plug the IOTA into the wall. Wonder why such detailed instructions?
I don't have any problems doing it this way for several years?

Yea I saw that when I replaced my cables too. The stock power cord is very short! I copied that since it was factory and I needed to use an extension cord anyway.
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