I have a USA 2011 XF Premium 5.0L which has just on 40k miles.

I've started to get 300 errors with 2 or more cylinders, so I'm trying a few things to rectify it:

• Added fuel injector cleaner to the gas/petrol to give the injectors a clean to see if that helps.
• Trying to replace the spark plugs.
• Maybe will check the fuel filter if all else fails.

I'm trying to remove the passenger side rubber shroud that covers the cylinder head ends and the coils, to get at the spark plugs, but for the life of me, I can't get the shroud off. Seems it's jammed tight against the side liner of the engine bay right at the last plug (closest to the engine bay) and won't budge. I've moved the coolant overflow to gain access, but I can't release the end of the shroud.

Is there a trick to getting it off? It seems to be caught between the last coil and the side of the engine bay, Could the motor have dropped slightly (deteriorated engine mounts perhaps?), or what?

What seemed like just a challenge (due to tight engine bay), seems almost impossible right now.

I assume for the drivers side that I'll need move the fuse box out of the way to gain access, as the shroud seems locked in there as well. Anything else I should remove/loosen?

Any other advice on what i should check for the 300 errors (300, 301, 302, 306)?

I have purchased to NGK iridium plugs and checked the gaps. They're ready to go.

Thanks in advance for any advice. guru's.

 

It won't be a plug problem at 40K. Covers are a pain, they are moulded to fit exactly. You may have to cut it to get it off.

 

Don't bother with the fuse box, removing it is nasty due to all the cables attached to it and it won't give you extra room.
It may help to remove the cowl vent screen (and thus the wiper arms) to get better access to the shroud, especially to its securing pins on the rear.
The shroud is hold in place by 2 or 3 rubber pins, these need to be lifted off before you can pull the shroud off towards the front. It may help to grease it a little bit in tight areas.

Yes, its a RPITA, but the thing is tough and will take some beating and pulling. Re-installing actually goes better because you can better grease where it matters.
Good luck.

Chris

 

Thanks Chris,

I'll take off the cowl vent screen tomorrow. I did not know about the securing pins at the rear. That's surely why I can't get the back off, on the passenger side.

Thanks also for the advice on not taking off the fuse box, I was going to do that tomorrow thinking it would give me the extra room on the drivers side to get the shroud off and start on the plugs.

 

@chris.schneider How do I get the Cowl off?

I've released all the plastic tabs holding, and have removed the wiper arms, but it seems really stuck to the base of the windshield. Is it glued on, or are there some clips under the cowl at the base of the windshield to somehow to release?

 

The issue with P0300 DTCs is more likely caused by faulty fuel injectors than spark plugs or ignition coils.

The sound insulators are slotted to allow for the fuel pressure sensor on Bank 1 and the breather pipes on Bank 2. Find the slots and you can remove them without cutting anything.

The windscreen cowl is held to the windscreen with a plastic clip that runs the length of the cowl. Begin at one end and pull GENTLY up to free it from the windscreen. Remove the connector for the windscreen washer before lifting it completely away.

 

thanks @NBCat for the info and advice.

I'm going to do the plugs anyway, I see bosch ignition coils are around $43. Should I get some to perform testing with the spark plugs, since I'm doing all of this effort anyway?

Are 3rd party ignition coils (like bosch) a good replacement for the OEM coils?

 

It's s tongue in slot deal, don't pull up or down, pull/lever straight out away from the glass.

 

Coils should not need changing at 40K. Won't be your problem.

 

@ozguy, the AJ133/AJ134 coil units are not a common failure point, so as mentioned previously, your P030x DTCs are more likely linked to faulty fuel injectors.

 

OK, so I put a few things back together and took the car out for a run to ensure I had the error codes correct, and I noticed something interesting:

It seems that 3 of the cylinders are misfiring and they're all on the 1 side.

Here are the error codes:

• P0300
• P0302
• P0304
• P0306
• P0316

This makes me think, that's it not the fuel pump or filter, and that it could the fuel rail that feeds that side of the car potentially.

If not the fuel rail, why would the 3 cylinders with issues be on one side? A bad sensor? Or just pure co-incidence that 3 fuel injectors and/or ignition coils went bad at the same time?

Thanks,

Alan

 

@kansanbrit the Cowl came out really easy with your advice about pulling straight up.

Looking at the errors, your comments about ignition coils were spot on. Seems to be the injector rails fowling the injectors as in this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-226016/

So now my plans are to pull the 2, 4, and 6 injectors, and give them a clean.

 

So now i know I need to work on the injectors for cylinders 2, 4, and 6, I need to be sure I'm working on the right cylinders.

I've attached an image with multiple engines, of which I know mine is the AJ-V8 GenIII (2011 XF 5.0L)

So to confirm, are cylinders 2, 4, and 6 the first 3 cylinders from the front of the block of the drivers side (USA car) as per the AJ-V8 image?

 

Correct.

 

Make sure you have the special tools required for removing and replacing the fuel injectors.

• Injector removal slide hammer
• Teflon seal resizing tool

The Teflon seals on the injector tips must be replaced and resized using the special tool.

 

I've already ordered the seal kit for the injectors, and the slide hammer tool, but din't know what the Teflon tool. Thanks @NBCat

Through your mention of the tool, I found this post by Joshy which has a link to it. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...p-step-220006/

 

I don't change them normally but probably should.

Baum Tools BJAG310-199K Fuel Injector Seal Installation Tools Compatible with Jaguar and Land Rover 5.0L V8 Engines
Available from Amazon

 

So I finally had to cut the rubber shroud to access the coils and injectors. There was no way it was coming out whole for some reason. There is no way that I'll be able to remove the injector on cylinder number 8, as it's totally inaccessible, as I could not remove the.corner panel (even after removing all 3 bolts, unless there's a 4th somewhere hidden). The panel wiggles, but will not come out. Neither will the remaining piece of rubber shroud jammed against the cylinder 8 coil area.

Thanks @Itismejoshy for the fuel injector replacement FAQ you posted. It's been very helpful.


Possible to remove this panel covering the brake fluid? It's blocking cylinder 8 access. I've remove 3 bolts, and don't see others. It moves a bit, but impossible to pull out.


As you can access to cylinder 8 is very restricted and no way to get the injector pulling tool in there. You can see the rubber shroud still jammed in there between the side panel and the coil for cylinder 8. I assume I'll need to get the injector bolt out of cylinder 8 to move the injector rail?


I have depressurized the fuel rails and am ready to move the fuel rail out of the way, however I can't work out how to release the black plastic containing the wires, that runs over the fuel rail. Anyone? Is the fuel rail easy to move once i get access to it?

Advice for the removal of the wire cover and fuel rail would be appreciated guru's. Thanks in advance.

 

The wire cover is just held on with four little clips, push each 'tongue' up or down, I can't remember which, to release the catch and they slide off towards you.

You might want to check the end of this thread for some info, "Xposure" has just done the job you are trying to do as part of his bigger job and he may be able to answer some of your questions also.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...d.php?t=248076

 

Thanks for the advice on the clips @kansanbrit . I'm not sure you sent the right link. I read all the posts (amazing work on the timing/cams!), but could not find anything helpful. Not even a reference to "Xander".

Do I need to remove/move the wires to free up the fuel lines enough to get to the injectors? Seems I also need to disconnect the stainless steel fuel line that crosses the top of the engine from the inlet manifold from what I can see.