When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A proper supercharger puller is what you need, it takes a lot of force to remove
Keep in mind your will gain minimal if any power if you dont have it properly Adjusted for in the ECU
While the supercharger is off to replace the dreaded Y pipe on the back of the motor I decided to install the Euro Toys upper pulley, the solid coupler on the charger (ZZP) and the oil for the charger itself ( acdelco 10-4041). I also be doing spark plugs and potentially coils. The car will be tuned following these upgrades and also has the Mina intake with K&N drop ins (a very worthwhile upgrade). The cost of the pulley/intake/filters/tune is very reasonable for the return in peak/net HP as well as throttle response. I hope to do remote operated exhaust cutouts over the winter.
The pulley was more easily removed with the Alta pulley removal cnc ring ($72). I then used the harbor freight pulley removal kit ($14.99) along with ~5 inch m8 3/8-24 fine thread bolts and washers. This worked well with the snout off and a pry bar through the bolts to stop the shaft from rotating. I did a light polish on the shaft with 320 grit sand paper.
Once off I heated the new pulley but mistakenly did not check clearances with the aluminum chuck provided for the now smaller pulley. It did not fit of course, and the snout casting required some material to be removed to fit. It then took the pulley sitting on the barrel of a heat gun after some time in the oven to fit, but slid on freely.
Though you can cut the wheel directly off the shaft I opted to heir on the safe side and use the specialized Alta tool.
This is pushing it for the novice shade tree DIY tuner. Thought it would help to share my experience.
Note that the three arm puller is not advised.
When removing the snout from the SC assembly, do not use a pry bar as I mushroomed a machined surface that is under pressure.
While the supercharger is off to replace the dreaded Y pipe on the back of the motor I decided to install the Euro Toys upper pulley, the solid coupler on the charger (ZZP) and the oil for the charger itself ( acdelco 10-4041). I also be doing spark plugs and potentially coils. The car will be tuned following these upgrades and also has the Mina intake with K&N drop ins (a very worthwhile upgrade). The cost of the pulley/intake/filters/tune is very reasonable for the return in peak/net HP as well as throttle response. I hope to do remote operated exhaust cutouts over the winter.
The pulley was more easily removed with the Alta pulley removal cnc ring ($72). I then used the harbor freight pulley removal kit ($14.99) along with ~5 inch m8 3/8-24 fine thread bolts and washers. This worked well with the snout off and a pry bar through the bolts to stop the shaft from rotating. I did a light polish on the shaft with 320 grit sand paper.
Once off I heated the new pulley but mistakenly did not check clearances with the aluminum chuck provided for the now smaller pulley. It did not fit of course, and the snout casting required some material to be removed to fit. It then took the pulley sitting on the barrel of a heat gun after some time in the oven to fit, but slid on freely.
Though you can cut the wheel directly off the shaft I opted to heir on the safe side and use the specialized Alta tool.
This is pushing it for the novice shade tree DIY tuner. Thought it would help to share my experience.
Note that the three arm puller is not advised.
When removing the snout from the SC assembly, do not use a pry bar as I mushroomed a machined surface that is under pressure.
Removing SC Pulley - Which Tool?
2008 XKR Convertible, (mods: AlphaJagTuning ECU Tune , 1.5lb pulley, (200cel cats( are now melted), xpipe, Bosch 001 pump, 180 Thermostat.
