stainless brake lines on xfr
All XF brake lines are braided stainless steel from the factory it's just that you can't see this coz they have a rubber outer cover.
Fairly sure they are the same, I had an XFS and an XFR and worked on the brakes on both and couldn't see any differences in the brake lines and I have never read or heard of any differences. Of course the brakes themselves differ across the various XF models, with different size rotors calipers and pads, and some owners have upgraded the cooking model brakes to XFR spec brakes with no need to change the brake lines.
based on your experience do the lines go bad? I have a 80k mile xfr reasonable driving and the tech that works on it said he thinks the inside of the lines are collapsing slowing the return of the calipers, if they are stainless doesn't that seem far fetched?
Originally Posted by wimmer
based on your experience do the lines go bad? I have a 80k mile xfr reasonable driving and the tech that works on it said he thinks the inside of the lines are collapsing slowing the return of the calipers, if they are stainless doesn't that seem far fetched?
If there really is an issue then you could just replace with the Jag OEM lines. But it's not clear to me why he thinks there is an issue?
Trending Topics
Brit the story is I had the front brakes done rotors and pads, within a few thousand miles the rotors warped pretty bad. the issue is I'm in wisconsin so a few thousand miles equals over two years, thus no warranty. So I got some brembo rotors and he said he thought the old ones warped because when I let off the brakes the inner lining of the line is colapsing slowing the return to a place where thae pads arent generating heat on the rotor. I don't know much about this stuff so I thoiught I would see what others that do know these cars think. I wondered if it was just an excuse for poor rotors the first time. Did he really put oem stuff on like he said?
Thank you all for the help
Thank you all for the help
If the calipers are dragging and not releasing that is your answer. Your mechanic is just reaching and does not understand Jaguar's as OzXFR posted they already come with SS lines and we don't have any reports of them collapsing like the old rubber ones do.
May need to replace the calipers if the pistons are dragging?
Make sure the caliper pins are free and lubricated as in salt county this is a very common problem.
.
.
.
May need to replace the calipers if the pistons are dragging?
Make sure the caliper pins are free and lubricated as in salt county this is a very common problem.
.
.
.
Brit the story is I had the front brakes done rotors and pads, within a few thousand miles the rotors warped pretty bad. the issue is I'm in wisconsin so a few thousand miles equals over two years, thus no warranty. So I got some brembo rotors and he said he thought the old ones warped because when I let off the brakes the inner lining of the line is colapsing slowing the return to a place where thae pads arent generating heat on the rotor. I don't know much about this stuff so I thoiught I would see what others that do know these cars think. I wondered if it was just an excuse for poor rotors the first time. Did he really put oem stuff on like he said?
Thank you all for the help
Thank you all for the help
enough that they pulsated pretty bad, I found it wierd that it was both of them
really think that it was shitty rotors that weren't oem but its hard to throw accusations without proof and they were installed two years ago but that was only a few thousand miles
really think that it was shitty rotors that weren't oem but its hard to throw accusations without proof and they were installed two years ago but that was only a few thousand miles
Masses of debate over on the Pommy forum about XF (and XJ) "brake judder" and "warped discs".
First and foremost, brake discs do not "warp" but that depends on your definition of "warped". I think it means twisted or bent but some think it means "not flat" at least in the context of brake discs.
99% of the time when someone is talking about "warped brake discs" they are talking about uneven brake disc surfaces caused by uneven brake pad material deposition and NOT bent or twisted brake discs, see here for example: https://alconkits.com/support/brake-...d-brake-rotors
Pad material deposition is most often caused by not properly/fully bedding in the pads to the discs.
Another common cause is applying the handbrake / EPB when the brakes are still hot, causing the rear pads to "imprint" on the discs, or sitting there with your foot firmly on the brake pedal while the brakes are still hot, again causing pad imprint but both front and rear this time.
Back to the Pommy forum debate, the most commonly proffered causes (excluding "warped discs") of brake judder are:
- poor quality / poorly made discs (quite rare in reality)
- sticking caliper slide pins (very common)
- rust build up on the wheel hub faces (not cleaned off before refitting the wheels)
- sticking brake pistons
Of these the most common by far is sticking caliper slide pins.
In turn lots of debate about how to prevent or cure sticking caliper slide pins, some say you should grease the pins others say you should not (as the grease supposedly attracts dirt, grime and especially brake dust). I for one always grease the pins with hi-temp brake grease (after cleaning them) and I have never had brake judder ever, and I have never seen any dirt etc on or around the pins.
Another common cause of sticking caliper pins is rust in the bores they sit in, at least in Blighty. The rust builds up and constricts the holes causing the pins to stick, a good clean out usually fixes the problem.
First and foremost, brake discs do not "warp" but that depends on your definition of "warped". I think it means twisted or bent but some think it means "not flat" at least in the context of brake discs.
99% of the time when someone is talking about "warped brake discs" they are talking about uneven brake disc surfaces caused by uneven brake pad material deposition and NOT bent or twisted brake discs, see here for example: https://alconkits.com/support/brake-...d-brake-rotors
Pad material deposition is most often caused by not properly/fully bedding in the pads to the discs.
Another common cause is applying the handbrake / EPB when the brakes are still hot, causing the rear pads to "imprint" on the discs, or sitting there with your foot firmly on the brake pedal while the brakes are still hot, again causing pad imprint but both front and rear this time.
Back to the Pommy forum debate, the most commonly proffered causes (excluding "warped discs") of brake judder are:
- poor quality / poorly made discs (quite rare in reality)
- sticking caliper slide pins (very common)
- rust build up on the wheel hub faces (not cleaned off before refitting the wheels)
- sticking brake pistons
Of these the most common by far is sticking caliper slide pins.
In turn lots of debate about how to prevent or cure sticking caliper slide pins, some say you should grease the pins others say you should not (as the grease supposedly attracts dirt, grime and especially brake dust). I for one always grease the pins with hi-temp brake grease (after cleaning them) and I have never had brake judder ever, and I have never seen any dirt etc on or around the pins.
Another common cause of sticking caliper pins is rust in the bores they sit in, at least in Blighty. The rust builds up and constricts the holes causing the pins to stick, a good clean out usually fixes the problem.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
edobernig
XF and XFR ( X250 )
67
Nov 18, 2021 02:03 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)











