Folks,,

I'm changing my Carvela 19'' Wheels on my 2012 XF portfolio to a Hydra 20'' Wheels. Was wondering if I could reuse my old TPMS from my old wheels,, a friend of mine with a Mercedes S class told me his were hard to remove and the shop didn't wanna take their chances breaking them. Do you know if they are removable on the 2012s+ and how easily do they brake if attempted to be removed? In case they become a hassle any place/website I can buy replacement for less than $110/corner?

Other question is that my brake pads are starting to squeel in the rear and the front are starting to get shaky,, what are relatively cheap replacement for pads and rotors without sacrificing OEM capabilities Too much?
Vehicle is 2012 XF Portfolio 5.0 NA. I believe it has smaller rotors than the Supercharged/XFR


Thank you
Sam

 

I did mine with no issues. In fact, since they were working with the old wheels, there is no programming required. I did not have any issues removing them or reinstalling them on the new wheels. If you use a new set, be sure to get the ones with the correct frequency that your car is programmed with.

 

Thanks bud,,

Any info you have on brake pads/Rotors?

 

Couple of thoughts on the TPMS. If they are the originals on your car they are 5+ years old. That's the lifetime of the batteries in them so you might start to get issues if batteries run low. If you are putting on new tires and not planning to break them down for a while I would prob get new tpms at the same time.
If you do, strongly suggest you get Jag oem ones. Sadly more expensive but the aftermarket ones have intermittent comms issues with the XF and give errors. Drove me crazy and I had to swap them out for oem - and now perfect. Should be the 315MHz if you're in the USA but check to make sure

On pads lots of people like the EBC red stuff. To be honest the pads themselves are pretty cheap. Cost is having the dealer do it... And unnecessary rotor replacement. Lots of opinions on this one - but there is a spec for rotor wear so have them measured and if they are in spec (less than 2 or 3 mm of wear - I forget now) and not warped I'd save the money and stick with them

 

Why do I have to have the dealer change the rotors? Is it a difficult job to do myself or have an indy shop do it? Because dealer rates/hour are crazy.

 

The rotors have a minimum legal thickness. If they are less than that, the shop has to replace them.

Back in the day, they use to resurface the rotors and you needed (IIRC) at least 10-20 thousands of an inch do to the job properly. Today's rotors are thinner to make them lighter and to increase MPG, so that machining them could take them below minimums.

Replacing the rotors is very simple after you remove the calipers (necessary to replace the pads).

 

Above doing the normal brake job, you'll have to remove the caliper brackets to replace the rotors, no big deal, save that $$$.

 

Sorry - my post was unclear. IF you have the dealer do the brake job it's very expensive. And they usually insist on doing the rotors. You can do it yourself (there is a great tutorial post on here) - it's quite straightforward. Only complexity is the rear rotor as you have to wind back the e-brake. But tutorial explains that

I would definitely do it yourself or have an Indy do it. And measure the rotors - if within their min thickness spec (and not warped) keep them on. I find I can do 2 sets of pads before rotors need to be done.

 

Here is a link to the great write up.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...job-how-85582/

 

Yes, read the article regarding your question about replacing brakes. I got my pads and rotors at rockauto.com which saved me lots of money. Your indy should be able to replace them quite cheaply. You can even buy slotted and drilled rotors on ebay.com. The factory Jag rotors on our XFs are pretty soft and prone to wear. The rule of thumb is that if you see wear thicker than a nickel by comparing the edge thickness of the rotor to the part of the rotor where the pads rest on, then it is time to change them.

 

That rule disappeared in the 1970s. The sole rule today is by measuring the thickness of the rotor and comparing to the stamped dimension. If less or equal, it's trash.

 

Merely measuring with a micrometer may not be enough especially if the rotors are warped. If a rotor is warped, then you need to cut them until they are true and then measure with a micrometer again to determine if they are still usable. But if the owner does not observe any jerking of the brakes or heat damage, one can assume that the wear is normal. And that is my basis for measuring the amount of wear with a coin. Most owners that do their own brakes will usually do so before any damage is done by excessively worn pads. Rotors with heat damage or excessive grooves are normally a candidate for rotor replacement at most shops. Most will not even consider turning them anymore just to make sure that the brakes will have a less chance of failing.