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Davetibbs can we use the old trick of using a breaker bar against the concrete floor and bumping the starter to loosen the crank bolt?
I have never had this fail to loosen the bolt.
I have done that on a few cars but don't know if everything turns the right way for this to work on a 5.0L V-8?
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I'm pretty sure you can... you have to disconnect the fuel system first though.
I don't want to risk it either way - I doubt either one of you would have the same issues as I have... I am blaming it on whoever worked on it before. Don't know what they did.
Davetibbs can we use the old trick of using a breaker bar against the concrete floor and bumping the starter to loosen the crank bolt?
I have never had this fail to loosen the bolt.
I have done that on a few cars but don't know if everything turns the right way for this to work on a 5.0L V-8?
Honestly, I have no idea if the engine turns the right way to do this, but there's no way I'd risk it and to be honest I think there's no way the starter on this engine has the power to turn the engine over (even with plugs removed) while trying to also loosen that bolt. It's in tight. Also, the crank pulley bolt not only provides tension on the crank pulley but on the timing chain sprockets. I wouldn't want to turn the engine over with the starter given all this, either by shorting wires on the starter (access is tricky) or (worse) by using the electric start button which gives limited control. Just not worth it.
Also bear in mind the steps and special tools that JLR list in the workshop manual as being required to remove the crank pulley - not only do you need to lock the flywheel in place with the locking tool in the starter motor hole, but you also need to use a separate tool to hold the pulley in place, supported by a jack stand, when you loosen the bolt. There's also a threaded bar with an adaptor that goes in the hole once you've removed the bolt to allow another special tool remove the pulley.
Admittedly, when removing mine I didn't use the pulley locking tool to remove the bolt, and just locked the flywheel and used the high impact gun on the bolt, which worked. However, the puller I used to try and remove the pulley ended up damaging it, and I found reinstallation of the pulley to get it on the crank straight was basically impossible without the special tools.
Sorry for late reply... been busy putting everything back together and then went for a test ride
To check and see which way the engine turns is actually very simple - before taking everything apart, turn the engine on and watch which way the serpentine belt goes around the crank pulley. Usually on a belt there will be some markings and you can easily tell which way its spinning. Once you have that info, all you have to do is put the breaker bar on the proper side - just make sure fuel IS disconnected!
Personally I would not be willing to risk it (in my case at least) because I don't know what has been done to it, prior to me getting the car. The car has a lot of signs of poor maintenance or something done in a rush for a quick sell (the yolk is on me I guess).
Also, if everything would be OK, I am not confident doing this move with a car that has a start/stop button, rather than a key. I find that the key gives you more control over how you control the "pulse" you send to crank.
In my case an impact motion is more desirable and safer.
One trick that you can do if you want and should work, is the rope trick. There are a few videos out there on how its done - on short, you need to remove one or two spark plugs and then turn the engine by hand until the piston(s) are all the way down. Fill the piston chamber with some thick rope (that doesn't fray) and then turn the engine by hand. While you do that, the rope will get pressed and stop the pistons from moving and allow you to loosen the bolt.
Personally I don't think you need to remove the starter and use the flywheel lock tool. Having the tool that locks the pulley in place is enough.
You gotta remember that the "main friction" is between the pulley and bolt - that is the first thing that the bolt is pushing against. Once that friction is broken, the bolt spins freely you are done pretty much.
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Anyway, I failed... but now after I put everything back together I realize maybe was not such a bad thing?
As a weird thing, after replacing the tensioner, that clicking noise that I thought might of been the chains, is gone!? Or maybe is just in my head... I'll definitely keep an ear on it for now.
I will still change them... or at least I will be pursuing to change that mangled pulley (I don't feel comfortable with that thing there now).
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A different kind of question....
Regarding the tmps antenna (sorry, don't know their proper name) that are sitting behind the front bumper - picture below (not mine - grabbed from internet).
Where in the world are these suppose to be mounted!?
When I took my bumper off, these things were just dangling inside the bumper (another great example of how amazing the mechanic that took care of this car was).
I tried to fit them in spots where they won't move, but not sure if the distance is appropriate or what not...
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Personally I don't think you need to remove the starter and use the flywheel lock tool. Having the tool that locks the pulley in place is enough.
You gotta remember that the "main friction" is between the pulley and bolt - that is the first thing that the bolt is pushing against. Once that friction is broken, the bolt spins freely you are done pretty much.
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In fact, the manual states that the bolt must be loosened after having removed the special tool from the flywheel. Nobody does it this way, not even the Atlantic British guy, but acording to the manual, that´s the right way to loosen the bolt.
Does anyone know why? Is there a risk of damaging the flywheel?
In fact, the manual states that the bolt must be loosened after having removed the special tool from the flywheel. Nobody does it this way, not even the Atlantic British guy, but acording to the manual, that´s the right way to loosen the bolt.
Does anyone know why? Is there a risk of damaging the flywheel?
I would believe that to be honest... if you attempt to remove the bolt only by having the flywheel locked, at those torques, I could easily see chipping a tooth off the flywheel.
That tool holds down only to one tooth of the flywheel... not sure is a good idea to put all that pressure on one of them only.
I believe that they use that to lock the crank in place when removing the chains, or to lock the crank in place in order to torque the tool on the pulley, before attempting to remove the bolt (which is very low... if I remember correctly 12 nM or something like that).
Last weekend I finally managed to change the oil from transmission and rear diff. Had to put back in around 7L (transmission).
The most annoying thing that I have found was replacing the plug sleeve. Everything else was a breeze - probably because I was fortunate enough to use a hoist. I doubt I would of enjoyed working on my back on the floor.
If you plan to do this, I strongly recommend to go to a shop and at least rent the hoist for an hour or two. Overall it took me 2 hours to complete both jobs.
The most surprising part for me was that none of the filler bolts (transmission and diff) was seized and they both came out like a charm.
As a note, for whoever stumbles over this post, for a 2012 XF, with a 6 speed auto gearbox, make sure you order your kit for a 6HP26/28/32 transmission and not for the 6HP19/21.
The sealing sleeves (the rubber tubes) are different from each other - they won't match. OR BETTER YET - double check what transmission you have before ordering anything.
When you remove the mechatronic unit, make sure you turn that thing around until all oil is out - there is quite a bit of oil sitting inside the unit.
Overall, so far, I think I do feel a difference.
The most noticeable one is in those cases where you almost stop... but not quite... and then you need to get back on the gas. Before, when I was going back on the gas, there was a little bit of hesitation, then a jolt and then she was going. Now, that hesitation and jolt seems to have gone and overall, the shifting and acceleration seems to be smoother (hopefully not a placebo effect).
Yep, I was just moving things around and I could swear there was another bolt holding it, but then realized that the top of the shroud has like a clip in thing (top, driver side) and you need to move it slightly to the right and the push on the little wing to unclip it.
Man did it tried my patience . Then I just had to remove the only bolt that is holding it and unclip the power cable.
I've been struggling with this for over two hours and I can't get off the fan, can someone please tell me how to do it? Where is that little wing?
Last edited by xfportfolio; 08-10-2020 at 05:12 PM.
Reason: Add an image
It's a pain, but you need to lever this tab in the direction of the engine while lifting the fan assembly upwards. Make sure you've unclipped all hoses and disconnected the wiring connector at the bottom.
Hey don't feel bad it's ALWAYS easy AFTER you have done it!!
But with the total lack of service information and the very cryptic diagrams in the Jaguar manuals we are lucky to trade information between ourselves to get the repairs done.
Hey don't feel bad it's ALWAYS easy AFTER you have done it!!
But with the total lack of service information and the very cryptic diagrams in the Jaguar manuals we are lucky to trade information between ourselves to get the repairs done.
But good job anyway!
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That´s true, look at the picture in the manual :
Absolutly useless, Davetibbs was much more accurate using just one arrow.
Ah, so now I look at it, the manual's actually telling you to push the tab on the fan assembly inwards (i.e. away from engine) rather than pulling the part that I'd highlighted outwards (towards engine), like this:
That might actually be easier than the way I first described as the plastic is thinner and probably more malleable.
I´m stuck removing that damn bolt, same situation mrNewt suffered. I´m using a torque multiplier capable of 2700Nm and when I turn it clockwise (bolt is 12.9) the whole car rotates a little bit and then returns to its previous position:
The manual says that the car must be on axle stands for the pulley to be removed but in my case it is not, do you think that this "spring" movement will be eliminated if I support the car with axle stands? Do you think this is due to the suspension?
Should stiffen up things... I hope it will work out for you!
Well, today I finally managed to brake loose the bolt, big difference with the car on axle stands.The torque of this bolt is crazy, it really took me to the limit, I was about to give up. BTW, the hoses of the transmision oil cooler are a pain in the ***.
05-15-2019, 01:04 PM
. Then I just had to remove the only bolt that is holding it and unclip the power cable.
