I recently installed Varex mufflers on my XF and HATED the fact that I had to use a cheap key fob to operate it. Not to mention the fact that I had to plug it into a cigarette lighter (not very classy in my opinion). I had seen on other posts where people were having issues with the fobs/controllers. Having seen something about a wiring mod, I decided to do it myself. There were hard wiring mods utilizing the existing controller but I wanted to delete these as well as I wanted to avoid any malfunctions in the future. I scoured the forums as well as a few YouTube videos and came up with something a little more comprehensive. I have posted a wiring overview as well as the switch wiring for reference as well as photos of my switch location. Some will take issue with the switch location as I had to cause irreparable damage to my lower B-pillar panel. Never fear. I did my research and found that a replacement is only $50. So, if it makes anyone feel better, I have already purchased a replacement on stand-by in case I want to install it back to factory specs..



Nice and clean install and tucked out of the way



Looks (almost) like it should be there...



Lots of measuring to make sure I cleared the seat belt retractor so as to not interfere with its operation or rub any wiring.



This shows the location of the switch after panel is installed. There is a plate behind the belt (not seen) where I used a 1-hole strap to secure the wires back/away from the seat belt. I used a SHORT self-tapping screw to secure the 1-hole strap. I say "SHORT" because the clearance is small and you do not want to go much further than the plate. Otherwise, you will have a screw poking out of your
exterior.

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Has to me a momentary on/off switch with 6-pin terminals The positive/negative wires coming from the actuators should have 3" (minimum) "pigtails" attached as these will be used as your jumpers. The other wires are coming from your chassis ground and your positive using a fuse pigtail/jumper. I used the two accessory fuses on my panel. Yes, I put each actuator on a separate circuit so as to not overload the fuses when activating the exhausts simultaneously.


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You should have 8 wires that run front to back (4 negative/4 positive) or (4) 2-pair stranded wire. When I routed the wires, I bundled them together and tie-wired them to the bottom of the strut brace to avoid future damage. The actuator wires come up from a factory grommet (under the tire/sub-woofer) in the tire well closest to the bumper. Remove the plastic trim at the trunk latch and attach ground wire to the factory ground (approx. 10 wires bundled together). The fastener is a 10mm

 

I always wanted to put the Varex exhaust on my 11 5.0S. Hated the idea of the key fob...I planned to do the exact same as you have done here. When I finally get around to putting the exhaust system on I will definitely be using this information. Love to hear what it sounds like!

 

look me up when you're ready. Id be happy to help walk you through it.

 

Nice work-around. I direct wired mine to a fuse in the trunk. You are right about the key-fob being annoying. but I keep mine open almost 99% of the time anyway so it hasn't been that big of a deal....but these thing have to be hard wired...I need my cigarette lighters to light my cigarettes...lol