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For the past couple of years, I've had this really odd event of the upper coolant hose coming completely off the neck and of course dumping all coolant, or most of it. So far Ive been lucky to catch it before blowing the engine. I've reattached the hose and DOUBLE CLAMPED IT with stainless hose clamps TIGHT. Just the other day as I was returning from a short trip to the drugstore and into driveway, I noticed coolant odor, opened the hood and once again the hose with double clamps has removed itself and voided the coolant. How can this hose push itself off like that? Car remains operating fine, no overtemp or codes, but it's created a paranoia about taking the car anywhere. Why? How?
How do you check for exhaust gasses in coolant? yes, upper radiator hose by the expansion tank.......it must be the correct hose. I never changed it. the end of the hose where it's clamped butts up to what appears to be a bump stop on the radiator neck.
Take a photo of the radiator fitting without the house on it.
just got a look at the upper radiator neck. its badly cracked. no way for the hose to be properly secured. I have done a lot of diy stuff but I'm a little afraid to tackle this. I know the part with the neck detaches from the radiator but I also surmise the entire radiator is gonna have to come out? all the lower hoses, trans cooler etc is gonna have to be detached. is this a diy job ?
just got a look at the upper radiator neck. its badly cracked. no way for the hose to be properly secured. I have done a lot of diy stuff but I'm a little afraid to tackle this. I know the part with the neck detaches from the radiator but I also surmise the entire radiator is gonna have to come out? all the lower hoses, trans cooler etc is gonna have to be detached. is this a diy job ?
Ok, folks, I've researched further and I think this is not too bad of a radiator replacement project, but any pointers appreciated. For instance, how much trans fluid expected to lose when disconnecting trans cooler upper and lower lines? It appears that a/c condensor remains in place and the radiator just lifts straight up?
DO NOT use jubilee clips or worm drive clamps to secure hoses to a plastic connection as they cause the plastic connection to fail. Use constant tension clamps only on any plastic connections.
To test for exhaust gasses in the cooling system, use a tester designed for that purpose. Here is an example of one:
DO NOT use jubilee clips or worm drive clamps to secure hoses to a plastic connection as they cause the plastic connection to fail. Use constant tension clamps only on any plastic connections.
To test for exhaust gasses in the cooling system, use a tester designed for that purpose. Here is an example of one:
Thank you for your help. Yes, I know the worm drive clamps aren't recommended. I had put these on after this hose removed itself twice with the factory hose clamp. I was aware of the risk and tried to avoid overtightening. Either it was cracked before or I killed it. On the exhaust gas in the coolant thing....would there be other signs of head gasket or cracked block? I am not seeing any white smoke and the engine oil looks clean and new on dipstick with no change in fill level.
You shouldn't have to disconnect the transmission cooler it just clips on the front of the radiator set.
My radiator has two threaded fittings on the driver side as well as the lower hose. They are aluminum pipes. I have not traced them, but per my workshop manual, they are feed and return lines to the transmission?