Has anyone tried this method? No information about it even in Land Rover forums.


Zip tie method

Davetibbs posted in this thread the pdf file where the whole process is explained.

 

If you only remove/replace the tensioners and guides, this will work without issues.
Just make sure you use a good solid strap.

Just to put this out here in case someone miss-interprets this... please realize that if you replace the chains as well, this method will not work and you need to lock the cams in place.

 

Looks like this method is not that easy. I found this here:


No room to get the blade out

He had to remove the fixed guide in order to get the blade out

 

It looks like he used a different way to zip tie those things... is just one strap going from the left side of the chain to behind the fixed guide on the right and that will give you some leverage to pull the chain away.
It looks like he connected the left side of the chain and the right side of it... then "pinched the chain"... that will not give you enough room on the left.

Ditto for the other side.
You work on each side separately, and so you pull the chain in different ways. The manual explains very well.

 

Yes, I understand what you mean, he used a different way to do it.

I read that you plan to change chain/tensioners soon, could you please simulate this zip tie method? Once you´re ready to remove the tensioner and chain (lock pin and cam locking tools in place, keyway at 6 o´clock) you just have to zip tie the chain as manual says and try to get the blade out.

 

Yes, I am planning to start working on the car starting this month on the 13 (got one week vacation so I can stay on it and hopefully finish it).
I will try and test the zip tie method and see what the space will be like, but I am also plan to change the chains as well (unless they are in very good condition and they do not require change).

Hopefully I won't forget about it... usually when I start something I kind of get into it and I'm in my own world

 

Thank you very much, It would be great if you coud take a short video of the moment when you get the blade out.

 

Not being well versed on the 5.0 engine, I have to ask. Did Jaguar unlearn their lesson with the 4.0 engine and repeat the same mistake of installing plastic tensioners on the 5.0? Did they ever address this by providing an upgrade to metal tensioners?

Is it possible that the metal body tensioners from the 4.2 engines fit?

 

The swinging blade guide chains are metal with plastic on top to guide the chain (2 of them)
The fixed guide chains are plastic (2 of them)
The actual tensioners are fully metal (2 of them as well)

 

I imagine its the fixed guide chains that are the most problematic. After how much mileage/age should they be replaced?

 

Actually, no, the issues is with the swinging blades.
Here is a video of the actual issue - they show the difference between the old and new.


How fast they go... from what I've been reading, depends from car to car (or how much the owner cares).

 

Oh that's interesting, and it seems more complicated than the issue the 4.0 engine had, which could be fixed by only pulling the valve covers using the zip tie method. By what model year was this issue rectified?

The reason I'm asking all of this is that my sister has been considering buying an XF and I'm researching the problem areas. I already read about the water pump, the dashboard, etc.

 

As far as I know, the last model for Jaguar XF where they still used a 5.0 is my year, 2012... and I am preparing to change them since I do have the issue (in all fairness my car is high in km > 180,000).
I don't know about Land Rovers... when they introduced the new fix.

I will be honest... if I would of knew of all the issues this car has, as much as I love it, I would of bought something else.
But I learned all the stuff after I got it... so now I am slowly putting it back on the right track.

When people ask me about the car and if they should buy one (especially since they are cheap to buy), I always tell them that if they don't know how to fix stuff on it, to spend their money on something more reliable.

 

That's why she's got me. I fixed up the XK8 and the XKR and she trusts that I can do the XF. She has had a thing for the XF for quite some time.

 

I think the last model of the XF 5.0 NA was 2012, but the XFR (5.0 SC) continued until late 2015 when the XF X260 came out and then it was discontinued.
Pretty sure both the NA and SC versions used the same timing chain set up.

 

They are beauties... that is for sure. The only reason I kept it and going trough the hassle.

Yep, I was referring to the NA since that's why I have - thanks for making it clear for others so they don't misunderstand me.

 

Be aware that the zip tie method is a poor short cut on the 4.0L V-8. On that engine both the primary AND secondary tensioners MUST be changed.
If you only do the easy one on top with the zip tie your leaving a ticking time bomb that will destroy the engine because when the tensions let go it's an interference engine so the valves hit the pistons.
If you can catch it early then sometimes you only jump a tooth or two and have no hard contact between valves and pistons. But it's a big gamble!

So no the 5.0L has no where near the level of problems the old 4.0L had. In fact many 5.0L engines never need any tensioner work at all. Where the 4.0L it is virtually 100% will need them replaced.
We still don't know why this happens on the 5.0L but many including me are suspicious of the far too long oil change interval of 15K miles.

I just went thru a mess at the dealer with the wrong oil being put in and now that that's over I will do the changes from here on out and it will be at 7500 miles MAXIMUM!
.
.
.

 

The 5.0 dos need tensioner work done - that is their biggest flaw. Is just that some people choose to ignore it and leave with the noise (some probably don't even notice it).
Look at the video I posted above and you will see the difference.

Over time, the tensioner starts to get caught in the hole for the swinging blade or the hole in the blade is being eroded by the tensioner.
You have to replace both. The new blades have a button on them and the tensioners are pushing at a different angle.

 

The TSB for Landrover covering this issue on the 5L engine suggests that it affects up to 2012 engines. However on the XJ forum it seems the issue persisted through mid 2013, IIRC. After that they should have the improved guides with the angled metal button on the back.

Agreed that frequent oil changes are supposed to prevent this from happening as quickly in these early year models.

 

Back to this post since I am collecting information on this topic to do this repair on my car next year.

I have recently read this thread in which Thonnawan explains how he performed this repair but unfortunately he couldn't take pictures of the whole process. He says that he had to separate the plastic part in order to disassemble and mount the driver's side blade . If someone has used the zip tie method and has photos / videos please post it here, thanks