XJ ( X351 ) 2009 - 2019

3.0 liter torque specs ( Main and Conrod Bolts )

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Old Jan 25, 2025 | 11:21 PM
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Default 3.0 liter torque specs ( Main and Conrod Bolts )

Hello. Would anyone know if the torque specs I posted below for the 5.0 s/c engine, also apply for the 3.0 s/c engine? Mine is awd if it matters (probably doesn’t). The torque specs I’m looking for on the 3.0 s/c are the main bearing cap bolts for the M8 and M10 Bolts. And the Conrod Bolts as well. Any suggestions are appreciated!


edit* Also wanted to ask if it’s possible to reuse the Main cap Bolts and ConRod Bolts? Having a really hard time finding them online. Ha! This engine is far from being rebuild friendly!





 

Last edited by AB055; Jan 26, 2025 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2025 | 12:27 AM
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Here ya go.
From the Workshop Manual for my 2014 F-Type V6.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2025 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
Here ya go.
From the Workshop Manual for my 2014 F-Type V6.
thanks! Appreciate it!
just to make sure it’s the “Balance Shaft Assembly Retaining Bolts,” Right? And that includes the M8 and M10 Bolts?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2025 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by AB055
thanks! Appreciate it!
just to make sure it’s the “Balance Shaft Assembly Retaining Bolts,” Right? And that includes the M8 and M10 Bolts?
Dunno, I'll leave it to you to interpret which bolt is which!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2025 | 08:15 AM
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What I read is pretty plain and they call them connecting rod bolts?
Go all the way to the end of what OzXFR posted.




For the main bolts I don't know. The list is not that specific.
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Last edited by clubairth1; Jan 26, 2025 at 08:16 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2025 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
What I read is pretty plain and they call them connecting rod bolts?
Go all the way to the end of what OzXFR posted.




For the main bolts I don't know. The list is not that specific.
.
.
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I appreciate it! Yeah the rod bolts are easy to find. It’s the mains I was concerned about. Thought maybe someone here might know if the 5.0 would be exactly the same since only the 5.0 Manuel has that info. Very strange to leave such crucial info out for the 3.0.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 10:32 AM
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I agree but your kinda rare as not many are rebuilding these engines so that data is not in high demand. I will be watching this thread as your suggestion that it might be the same as the 5.0L engine is a good one. We just need to see if there is anything from Jaguar to guide us.
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 11:00 AM
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I would guess that the Mains are listed as the balance shaft in the list provided OzXFR. Isn't the rear balance weight the journal without attaching rods?
The numbers look close, and nothing else in the list seems appropriate.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ca3724
I would guess that the Mains are listed as the balance shaft in the list provided OzXFR. Isn't the rear balance weight the journal without attaching rods?
The numbers look close, and nothing else in the list seems appropriate.
yeah the rear balance weight is the journal without rods, you’re correct. I will look more into the similarities between the two engines. If I find nothing elsewhere, I’ll probably just use the v8 specs.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AB055
yeah the rear balance weight is the journal without rods, you’re correct. I will look more into the similarities between the two engines. If I find nothing elsewhere, I’ll probably just use the v8 specs.
Hey 👋

I'm also rebuilding my 3.0 V6 supercharged 😅
I thought I had a blown head gasket and after disassembly saw that a piston was melted and damaged the bore of the cylinder wall.
Today I've removed the engine from the car and I just need to bring the engine to a specialist. We spoke on the phone and he told me I can rebore it or resleeve it. He recommends reboring but needs to see it first.
Which would you recommend?
And I also couldn't find the torque specs, what did you end up doing? Using the torque specs for the V8?

Thanks and happy new year
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 08:40 PM
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Cemil, honestly, I think you have an either/or question on your hands. If you bore the one cylinder out to remove the damage (thinning the sleeve which is not a big problem really), then that means you have to buy 6 new pistons that are oversized. Having 1 cylinder bigger than the others is going to lead to power imbalances and cause unusual wear on the engine. This will affect longevity of the engine. Is this going to be a 5K mile and then the engine is going to die again. I would like to think not as the power difference between cylinders is not going to be that dramatic. But, is it going to shave 20K/30K/?? miles off of the engine lifetime, I feel safe in saying that.

You can otherwise just get the one sleeve replaced, get a single new piston, then rebuild the motor from there. I have a feeling that this is going to be a cheaper path, but then, you are "shorting" yourself the potential extra power that you could get with bigger bores. It isn't going to be earth shattering power gains, but gaining 20ish HP I think would be a safe number to go with.

So, save some money and fix the one cylinder or let your kid out and build for all that you can get out of the engine. Either way, you are looking at a new complete set of gaskets for the engine and all new rings for the pistons.

As for the torques you are looking for, check out: Engine Torque Settings and Spec's 3.0L V6 SC | PDF | Motor Oil | Vehicles. I think that is going to have what you are after. This is for the Range Rover 3.0L, but it is the same engine, so, the values should be good. The only problem I have with this site is that it times out and forces you to see an add. So, I would do some screen shots if possible and create your own file that way.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2025 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
Cemil, honestly, I think you have an either/or question on your hands. If you bore the one cylinder out to remove the damage (thinning the sleeve which is not a big problem really), then that means you have to buy 6 new pistons that are oversized. Having 1 cylinder bigger than the others is going to lead to power imbalances and cause unusual wear on the engine. This will affect longevity of the engine. Is this going to be a 5K mile and then the engine is going to die again. I would like to think not as the power difference between cylinders is not going to be that dramatic. But, is it going to shave 20K/30K/?? miles off of the engine lifetime, I feel safe in saying that.

You can otherwise just get the one sleeve replaced, get a single new piston, then rebuild the motor from there. I have a feeling that this is going to be a cheaper path, but then, you are "shorting" yourself the potential extra power that you could get with bigger bores. It isn't going to be earth shattering power gains, but gaining 20ish HP I think would be a safe number to go with.

So, save some money and fix the one cylinder or let your kid out and build for all that you can get out of the engine. Either way, you are looking at a new complete set of gaskets for the engine and all new rings for the pistons.

As for the torques you are looking for, check out: Engine Torque Settings and Spec's 3.0L V6 SC | PDF | Motor Oil | Vehicles. I think that is going to have what you are after. This is for the Range Rover 3.0L, but it is the same engine, so, the values should be good. The only problem I have with this site is that it times out and forces you to see an add. So, I would do some screen shots if possible and create your own file that way.
First of all thank you for your answer 😀

I'm sorry if I wasn't clear enough but I was on planning on reboring all of the pistons or resleeving all of them. I don't want to do this a second time in the future 😅.

I just wasn't sure if reboring is as reliable as resleeving, as I'm someone that likes OEM . As I understand the inside of the cylinders will get bigger, but the ecu automatically adjusts the air fuel ratio by O2 sensors right? So I shouldn't worry about lean mixture?

I'm going to order some upgraded parts like aluminum coolant pipes and thermostat instead of plastic. Also all new bearings. I've found a nice website (euro-amp), but need to check if they ship to Belgium.

Thanks for the link , I'll check it out.

And sorry if I ask some stupid questions, I'm just a little bit scared as I want to do things the right way :P

Happy new year btw
 
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Old Dec 28, 2025 | 09:22 PM
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Cemill, this is where price of work vs price of new parts is going to drive you one way or the other. Boring out the sleeves to fix the one cylinder is not going to affect the long term reliability of the engine. As long as it is dimensionally good (ie, pistons match the enlarged sleeves), it will act just like if you had just bought the car, oversized pistons or replaced sleeve. The fix is not going to affect long term reliability. You let a mechanic not do things right, then yes, it will affect the long term reliability.

As for the computer, you are correct. The computer is going to adapt to whatever air flow the engine is going to pull. Yes, the enlarged sleeves are going to pull slightly more air and therefore fuel, resulting in more power. Like I said last time, the power difference is going to be maybe 20 hp. So, not something that I would be really using to say "even though enlarging the sleeves is the more expensive repair, the additional power is worth it".

I will answer questions until you feel comfortable or we are covering the same things way too many times. You are still good.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2025 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
Cemill, this is where price of work vs price of new parts is going to drive you one way or the other. Boring out the sleeves to fix the one cylinder is not going to affect the long term reliability of the engine. As long as it is dimensionally good (ie, pistons match the enlarged sleeves), it will act just like if you had just bought the car, oversized pistons or replaced sleeve. The fix is not going to affect long term reliability. You let a mechanic not do things right, then yes, it will affect the long term reliability.

As for the computer, you are correct. The computer is going to adapt to whatever air flow the engine is going to pull. Yes, the enlarged sleeves are going to pull slightly more air and therefore fuel, resulting in more power. Like I said last time, the power difference is going to be maybe 20 hp. So, not something that I would be really using to say "even though enlarging the sleeves is the more expensive repair, the additional power is worth it".

I will answer questions until you feel comfortable or we are covering the same things way too many times. You are still good.
Again, thank you very much.

Everything is clear as of right now
Have a nice day/evening 🙂

And for anyone needing specs, I've found this link which is also very useful:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r6V...Iccw_M9Is/view

 
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