Yikes!... I am getting ready to do mine in the next few weeks, but its a PXE16 on my 2011 XJ SS... hopefully I don't have this same mismatch...

 

Yes I wanted to post pictures so people can see the difference.
Report back if you can? My experience might not be that common?
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Progress update - I began my R&R of my compressor today... it is a wee bit of a challenge as they say, but I did get it out (thanks for all documents and pics Clubairth1!)... my new compressor and old one matched up perfectly (PXE16)...I decided to replace the desiccant bag as well, but unfortunately the new one from Rock Auto isn't the right one, so I'll shop local parts stores to see if I can find the right one...I'll be doing re-install over the next couple days, and I'll update again once completed...

 

Glad to hear progress but I looked and all 3 on Rock Auto are the correct bag? Have you removed your cars bag yet?
If different post a picture?
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Yes, it is different, both bag and plug are different… I’ll post a pic, but here’s the one that matches what it looks like

 

Yes I saw one had a different plug but the bag is the wrong size?
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Finished the install today, vacuumed it down for about 4+ hours, put in ~24.7 ounces of R134, and wahlah, I have cold A/C again!!! Below are some pics of the old and new desiccant bag and plug... I got mine from NAPA, they were closer to me than Autozone...

 

Glad to hear it! Thanks so much for reporting back how it came out too.
You researched the problems and figured it all out.
Great repair!
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Thanks! I added some pics of the desiccant bag/plug... It was a bit of a challenge to get out, the 10MM hex wouldn't move it, it was just rounding it out inside...so with some southern ingenuity, I used some long needle nose pliers and a long screw driver to get it out ... pushed the pliers up into those slots on the outer rim of the plug, and used the screw driver to twist it, and it came right out!!!

 

This happened to me too at first, but I realized I just didn't seat the 10mm hex completely inside the plug. More contact surface equals less likely chance of stripping it out.

Good job at the DIY repair. Anytime your system needs to be evacuated for any reason, it seems like you're looking at least at a $500+ repair bill.

 

Thanks Jaag_drivah ... Yup, my total parts+freon bill was ~$450... but that's a lot cheaper than the ~$4K an indie auto shop was quoting me!!! Plus I got all this valuable experience now !

 

Holy Swallow Sidecars, definitely doable for an amateur mechanic but took me ~18-20 hours all in. This was a weekend job for me with a very full first day of disassembly. Here’s the Jag at work on Monday morning (victory!), but keeping my distance since she needs a wash!

Setup:
-Tools: I took a picture of the tools that came in handy for this repair. A few tight spots that you can't see, just have to feel it out.

-Lift: I highly recommend a lift with good clearance over the ground for access. My ~18” of vertical clearance with jack stands gave me some contortion pains. I’ll definitely lift it higher next time I’m underneath for better access. I used my ramps for the rear wheels, since I planned to remove the driver’s side wheel.

-Wheel out: I definitely took the left/driver’s side wheel out after my access for tools was severely limited.

-Plastic covers removed: I removed the bottom splash shields under the radiator and engine+transmission. I also opened up the radiator cover in the engine bay to clear out lots of debris and dead bugs. This is a must do for this maintenance regardless if you replace the condenser unit. You can only reach so much from the bottom of the radiator + condenser.

-Transmission Cooler: I was able to finagle the compressor out without removing the transmission cooler or any coolant hoses. Please see how I positioned the transmission cooler towards the front of the engine bay to make room for the compressor to be removed from the wheel well. I also didn’t need to bend the transmission cooler metal tubes to get the compressor in/out.

AC Compressor:
-I purchased a Four Seasons aftermarket compressor for ~$400 from PartsGeek. Made in China, but I referenced some of you who did not have trouble with this manufacturer. It came pre-loaded with 3 oz of oil, but I followed the instructions and replaced with PAG46 oil 3.7oz.

-During removal the larger AC metal hose connector was very difficult to remove. A lot of prying back and forth and loosening the compressor bolts allowed me to wiggle this loose.

-Warning to ensure this same larger AC metal hose is clear of the back of the compressor once bolting on the new compressor. I had to loosen all bolts from the compressor and pull this hose free in order to finish. Access is difficult, so rework is a pain.

Desiccant Bag:
-My stick in the mud was the desiccant bag I got (Four Seasons) was too large and I could not slide it in…The pointy end is fatter than the other side, and it does not want to fit through the bottom of the dryer tube. I purchased this alternative from Advance Auto Parts: T83124 that seemed to be a good size replacement $12.99. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ctedStore=8210

-My replacement white desiccant filter plug was nearly stripped upon removal for the smaller bag from Advance Auto. I ended up cleaning up the black Jaguar OEM plug for a better fit and the ability to remove safely in the future.

UPDATE: I just received the replacement desiccant bag that should be a direct replacement for my thinner bag. I recommend ordering this.



Recharge:
-Target R134 weight is 25.2 oz for my car (reference auto parts website). I followed Chris Fix’s video for this, it is excellent. Video:

 

Manuals: Attached are the manuals that I downloaded from TOPIX for my VIN, including compressor replacement and desiccant bag replacement.

-AC Overview:
-AC Component Location:
-AC Torque Ratings:
-AC Compressor Replacement:
-AC Condenser Core Replacement: DID NOT USE
-AC Desiccant Bag Replacement:
-AC Refrigerant Recovery Recharging:
-AC Compressor Commissioning:

 

griff8331,

Fantastic write up! Thanks for posting.
I'm planning this job on the '12 in the next few weeks. Also, thanks to, Club. I won't bother with just the valve, I'll stick a whole new compressor in!

wombat

 

Great job and I bet that cool AC is so sweet!

One caution? I don't put the can's on the side. We need to understand that as DIY guys we charge with gas only thru the low side. The commercial shops in the interest of time will charge with liquid on the high side and they will use a charging cylinder to put the exact right weight of Freon in the system. It is a better and more precise method but with added costs. When the can is upright your pulling in gas. If you invert the can your pulling in liquid. On the side it will be a mixture of the two phases.

The system can stand some amount of liquid in the low side but if too much it can damage the valves in the AC compressor.

To decrease the time it takes to re-gas the car I use a bucket of hot water and put the Freon cans in that to drive the liquid to gas faster. Works very well too.
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Thanks club! I took that out of my post!

Would you recommend that I get it recharged?

 

Not at all and sorry if I implied that!
It's just not good to put liquid in the low side and the only harm is if too much liquid is introduced it can damage the valves in the compressor. I see guys that turn the cans upside down every now and again to put a slug of liquid in. You can see the pressures jump around when a slug of fluid hits the compressor. So it's a matter of degree. I just don't want to cause additional problems because of my work.

Your good to go and enjoy the AC!
You earned it!
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Good afternoon, y’all.

I noticed this morning that my AC compressor is making a labored whining noise during acceleration. The noise disappears when AC is off, so I’m afraid it’s the compressor. Where should I start with diagnosing this as a problem?

I am planning to measure the refrigerant in the High and Low sides when I get home.

It’s 81F today, and my readings are L 40psi, H 275psi. Does anyone have the reference service pressures for the x351?

I have read that I may need to replace or tension the serpentine belt.

What would you do to figure out the issue?

Thanks in advance!

 

Those service pressures look normal but are you 100% sure you charged to the correct amount, by weight? Labored noise is usually due to either a lubrication issue or elevated compressor discharge temps (associated with elevated condenser temps- unlikely at 81 F ambient if you have the correct refrigerant fill volume- or aforementioned lubrication issue). What's the temperature of your high side pipe right out the side of the compressor?

 

High side looks a bit high? Especially for the ambient air temperature your were at?
But as Jaaag_drivah said it might be normal.

Could be belt noise but these are spring tensioned belts so no adjustments? Not a bad idea to go a head and change it.

I have attached a detailed description with trouble shooting that covers our X351 XJ's climate control system. It does have a section on pressure readings so this might help?
Sorry it's too big to upload to the forum? Fixed!! I have reduced the size of the file. I hope it still is readable?
If not you can send me your E-mail address via private message I will send the AC document to you. It's 202 pages.

This chart (From the above document) shows the normal ranges of high and low side pressures depending on the outside temperature.




You can see that 275 psi on the high side is too high for 81 F. Now at 100+ F that might be a good pressure.
Generally the low side pressure should be VERY close to the outlet duct temperature. I like to see low side get down to somewhere in the 30's. But your at 40 so in the range.

Thanks for posting the actual pressures as so many times guys try to work on AC problems without gauges and that really does not work.
Do you have a duct thermometer? There very cheap and handy too.

Looks like this?





Here is the link and I like the larger 1.5" diameter gauge face as a lot of them are only 1" in diameter. Strange ad? The gauge is plainly made for automotive AC work as it has the blue band where you want you duct temperature. Don't know why it's listed as some kind of wacky soil thermometer? But you will find dozens of these and there so cheap you should just get one!

This one is about $9.
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