A/C Issue
Does anyone know why my A/C only works on the driver side but blows regular air everywhere else in the vehicle? Suction pressure is between 30-40psi which is in the green.
This is likely a door actuator issue and not a refrigerant or evaporator issue. Do you have any fault codes shown in SDD for blend doors or anything like that?
This may seem obvious, but if you have the climate control in independent mode each seating position has its own temperature knob. I have often accidentally turned off the sync mode before when driving alone and wondered why the passenger side wasn't blowing cold, for a minute before I realized I had accidentally un-synced the temperature control.
This may seem obvious, but if you have the climate control in independent mode each seating position has its own temperature knob. I have often accidentally turned off the sync mode before when driving alone and wondered why the passenger side wasn't blowing cold, for a minute before I realized I had accidentally un-synced the temperature control.
Cost here was 70€uros and took 15min. After that all good.
Actuators fail if they got water, what can happen if the aircon drain get clogged. (what should not happen if pollen filter is in present)
You are wrong: Air blender actuators are not made by Ford. They are from Denso. Very low reports them failing. Some years ago we though that my friends XJ had one actuator failed, but it was an Auxilary heater PCB messed the LIN Bus causing left side blender motors work by their own mind. Auxilary heater is the last device of left side blender actuators bus.
Actuators fail if they got water, what can happen if the aircon drain get clogged. (what should not happen if pollen filter is in present)
Actuators fail if they got water, what can happen if the aircon drain get clogged. (what should not happen if pollen filter is in present)
And I have never seen a door fail from water ingress. It's often the plastic that becomes brittle and the gears break. A pollen filter will do nothing to stop water from passing through it. That's ridiculous to suggest that it acts as some kind of water permeable barrier! LOL! Do you actually work on cars?
Thanks for all the help and information. I will try and locate the blend door actuator. I know when I’m on the highway the passenger side gets cold but when I’m driving city streets it’s just blowing regular air
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No, you are wrong. Ford uses Denso actuators. Not many things like that are made by the actual car manufacturer. I would have thought you knew that by now.
And I have never seen a door fail from water ingress. It's often the plastic that becomes brittle and the gears break. A pollen filter will do nothing to stop water from passing through it. That's ridiculous to suggest that it acts as some kind of water permeable barrier! LOL! Do you actually work on cars?
And I have never seen a door fail from water ingress. It's often the plastic that becomes brittle and the gears break. A pollen filter will do nothing to stop water from passing through it. That's ridiculous to suggest that it acts as some kind of water permeable barrier! LOL! Do you actually work on cars?
Yes: Almost all manufacturers use OEM sources for the common parts what are no-sense to manufacture by themself. Most margues do it. Smaller manufacturers more than bigger ones. By that the car manufacturer in most cases do not have anything else to do it with the part other than choose it from OEM catalog and make moutings suitable for it.
Ford have nothing on the desing or manufacture of the air blender door actuator used by JLR.
Please stand once behind your words and state what Ford model / year same blender door actuator are used?!
I never seen blender door failing on water either. Where you got that one? I did not wrote that the blender door fails on water. Are you insane or just don´t understand what you read?
Re-read my post and come back to me.
You obiosly haven´t work with cars because you don´t know what happens when aircon drain get glogged. ( LOL I catch you now !!
)How and why an drain get glogged inside of heater assembly? I let you find that out, because obiosly you never cleaned one. Did you even know there is a drain? Do you know why it need one?
Sure an pollen filter is defently not a water barrier, but still aircon system need an drain. (physics is not your strong area, right?)
Why is it that some here cannot debate and exchange information without insults or character assassination?
Why the need to always step on another in an attempt to elevate oneself in the view of others?
Right now all I see above is opinions and insults. Would be nice to see ACTUAL evidence, otherwise you are wasting all our time.
So tired of reading this kind of thread: You are wrong. No, YOU are wrong. No, NO YOU are wrong and you suck. No NO NO you suck more and you are still wrong. On and on....it is maddening.
Maybe try to do better and not clutter up good info with your competitive nature. I think we all would appreciate it.
Why the need to always step on another in an attempt to elevate oneself in the view of others?
Right now all I see above is opinions and insults. Would be nice to see ACTUAL evidence, otherwise you are wasting all our time.
So tired of reading this kind of thread: You are wrong. No, YOU are wrong. No, NO YOU are wrong and you suck. No NO NO you suck more and you are still wrong. On and on....it is maddening.
Maybe try to do better and not clutter up good info with your competitive nature. I think we all would appreciate it.

Get your aircon system checked and refilled.
Jag xjl,
Do you hear a change in the a/c fan speed as you come to a stop?
If the fan speed increases, and then drops again as you go past about 10mph, then there is a fairly strong chance that your refrigerant level is low, and/or, your compressor valve body is on its way out. There are numerous threads about the valve body, (Clubarbarth) wrote a good one. I'll summarize for you. Don't bother replacing the valve, just fit a new compressor and dryer sack.
wombat
Do you hear a change in the a/c fan speed as you come to a stop?
If the fan speed increases, and then drops again as you go past about 10mph, then there is a fairly strong chance that your refrigerant level is low, and/or, your compressor valve body is on its way out. There are numerous threads about the valve body, (Clubarbarth) wrote a good one. I'll summarize for you. Don't bother replacing the valve, just fit a new compressor and dryer sack.
wombat
If this is a blend door issue, why would that issue be speed dependent? Unless there is some speed-based HVAC logic that I am not aware of in these cars. I miss the days when cars had just three simple dials for AC: fan speed, temp, and vent control.
Last edited by Jaaag_drivah; Jul 22, 2025 at 05:35 AM.
You both realize y'all are saying the same thing, right?
Last edited by Jaaag_drivah; Jul 22, 2025 at 05:36 AM.
Yes.
Lotusespritse changed his mind after i noted him.
These are not from Ford on X351 platfom, so they don´t suffer same symphoms.
It is good that members help each other. Nobody knows everything and incorrect info may be bad as well, so if somebody knows more accuracy info, i am more than happy to stand corrected. Like everybody else should be - no offense on that.
Everybody of us should enjoy our beatyfull vehicles.
Lotusespritse changed his mind after i noted him.
These blend doors are from Ford and they are notori....
It is good that members help each other. Nobody knows everything and incorrect info may be bad as well, so if somebody knows more accuracy info, i am more than happy to stand corrected. Like everybody else should be - no offense on that.
Everybody of us should enjoy our beatyfull vehicles.
Wait, is it blowing cold only on the driver or passenger side? This contradicts your first post. This makes me think it IS a refrigerant charge issue. If refrigerant is low, whichever duct is fed closest to the TXV side of the evaporator gets the coldest. Not sure which duct that is in our cars...
Therefore when when refrigerant is low, only left side get cold.
I got cold on only on left side when stationary, but on speed some cold appear on right side as well.
Because engine coolant fan did not run at all when idling with AC on full cold, i first suspect failed engine fan. After tested the fan by removing relay and by pass it by shorting, noted that fan worked Ok. (note: With or without engine running the control wires for fan is different. (IGN and PWM) Check wiring diagram.
The AC line have pressure sensor, what usually prevent only compressor starting at all when refricant is low. On this system the pressure sensor seems to have two steps: 1st step: Engine fan is not running, 2nd step: Compressor will not start.
Yes: Refricant is filled by weight. 700g is for 3.0L diesel. (the compressor on gas and diesel is different, so its worth to check sticker on left side of engine bay for value)
Our local aircon shops (usually tyre shops) have an aircon service device, what first suck everything out and measure pulled refricant. Then it pressurised the system with nitrogen and measure for leaks. If no leak detected it empty system again and fill system by preset amout on refricant. All without person doing nothing than connect the High / Low pipes and set it going. 15min and all done.
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