A fellow member suggested I do a post on this part hack a Jag dealer tech turned me on to.

This deals with heater/inlet pipe/hose on the passenger/right hand side of the motor--the one with bleeder screw that connects to the rear crossover manifold on the back of the motor.

I can attest that this works on a 2011 XJ 5.0 Supercharged, but my assumption it is that it works on all 5.0 and 3.0 platforms.

On my vehicle, the original installed part I am referring to is C2D5710 and is the #2 in the first picture below. It consist of a rigid pipe, surrounded by two soft hoses, where one is an elbow connector and the other is straight. MSRP for C2D5710 is $170.00.

The sister part on 3.0 F-pace is T2H3431, which essentially eliminates the rigid pipe. According to Jag tech, this part is less prone to failure, but more importantly, at $60 MSRP, it is about 1/3 the price. The part I am referring to is #18472 in the second picture.

THESE PARTS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE!!!

Again, I have done this on my vehicle referenced above, and it works flawlessly. The cheaper part is also a bizzalion times easer to install.

Hope this helps.

 

That looks like good info that can help anyone replacing the coolant lines.
Probably even worthy of being a "sticky" post.

 

Great find!
Don't see a lot of those hose failures but that cheaper price is worth it all by itself!
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Thank you for posting this - I have been looking for the part number for hours today. The parts diagrams I’m looking at don’t list it. I need to get a windows computer so I can look at jpart

 

Wanted to come back and say I wish I had replaced mine with this full rubber hose. The stock setup with that metal bracket bolted to the back of the engine is a royal pain to remove and replace! Just getting rid of that bracket is a big win!

I think I will order this hose since I am still running the factory one with the metal bracket. I did replace my rear water manifold with the better metal version and was right there too! After fighting that rear bracket on and off I have no desire to even touch it again! If I do it will be removed for good!
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Great thread, thank you!

I have a Supersport which was someone's unfinished project. C2D5710 (the part flexi / part rigid with the metal bracket) has its elbow connector snapped off, and the aluminium heater pipe the elbow connects to is bent right over and flattened. I suspect this happened when the engine was taken out for replacement, maybe they forgot to disconnect it or it snagged and bent the pipe down as the engine was dropped.

Anyway, I have a replacement heater pipe (from a breaker in Lithuania!) but trying to get it out with the engine in place is horrible. I need to take C2D5710 off in order to make room, but how? I can't see how I can get to the bolt that holds the metal bracket part to the block / head. But it might be because I've disconnected the heater pipe from the connections on the bulkhead and the two elbows from that are now occupying the only free space in that corner of the engine bay?

To those of you that have accomplished this task, please tell me how much disassembly you did (s/c off?), whether you got to that bracket bolt from above or below?

Thanks!

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To remove the bolt you have to remove the wipers/cowl and fuse box cover, and the bulkhead panels that sit between the firewall to get enough space.

Check out this guys video, it was helpful. He still replies to comments on YT. It's definitely easier with the SC off, but idk if you really have to. I was planning to do this but ended up being able to replace only my coupler/connector instead

 

Thanks for the super fast reply! I feel like a complete amateur not realising that removing those secondary bulkhead panels make it so much easier

I had noticed the nuts that hold them to the strut tower castings, so might have tried removing them eventually. The secondary bulkheads on my car are damaged at the top centre so maybe I should replace them.

I've found this thread quite helpful too. I will definitely be pressure testing given how prone these cars seem to be to leaks. I need to inspect the crossover pipe as well, might as well replace that while I'm in there unless it looks brand new.

 

I had sc off, as well as wiper cowls and bulkhead panels. You could possibly get to it without all that, but there will be a lot of cuss words involved.

 

I had sc off, as well as wiper cowls and bulkhead panels. You could possibly get to it without all that, but there will be a lot of cuss words involved.

 

If you want to replace that terrible coolant line at the back of the engine with the metal bracket and bolt there is a one piece hose assembly for 1/3 the price that is a great improvement?



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OK so with the secondary bulkheads off, oh wow, SPACE!

I easily removed the bent heater pipe:


C2D27906

And now on to our nemesis, the pipe with the metal bracket that bolts to the block. I could easily feel the bolt head, easily get a socket on it, or a ratchet spanner. But I could not make it turn!

​​It either needs more torque or a shock to break it free, but it's really awkward. Some penetrating oil overnight is probably worth a try. Any more tips, please share...

 

No bleeder screw on the replacement?

 

It's just a battle and your right there is no room EVEN with the secondary bulkheads removed. I just had to fight it out and fight it back in. That's why I post about the short replacement hose above. It solves all that and is so much cheaper to boot! Eliminate that terrible steel bracket!

Now again I did get a small amount of working room by lifting the engine and tilting it up on the passengers side. BUT it's not much room!

Man that is a seriously mangled pipe! Hate to ask what was the replacement cost?
Bleeder screw is NOT in that pipe.
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Harpers Jaguar are selling part# T2H3431 for $45 and change. I have no idea what the shipping cost will be, and I have no association at all with Harpers Jaguar. I'll be ordering 3.

wombat

https://parts.harperjaguar.com/oem-p...r-hose-t2h3431

 

Just so everyone knows here is the difference I have been talking about?

Here is the stock setup with the metal bracket and the VERY inaccessible bolt!
That bolt goes directly into the back of the block so 180 degrees from the firewall. Can't see it and it's all done by feel.

I guess I should be happy Jaguar at least thought to put a retainer on the bolt because I am not sure how I would have reinstalled it if I had to fight the loose bolt AND the bracket at the same time! They also added an alignment pin to the bracket. So if you put the guide pin in the hole then the bolt will be lined up with the threaded hole in the block.





Here is the replacement I have posted about.



That bolt/bracket was such a pain to get in and out (Twice!) that I never want to see it again!
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club,

I haven't tackled this job yet, and to be honest, I haven't looked very closely at it. I was wondering if it would be possible to just cut the bracket off the old pipe and leave it in place (negating the need to remove the bolt), and then just replace it with the updated pipe?

wombat

 

Good point and I had a thought to just install the original hose and bracket BUT to NOT attach the bolt! No place for the hose to go so I see why Jaguar in later models just eliminated the entire bracket and bolt. It was not needed in the first place.

I don't know how you would cut the bracket off as again no room to work? But that would work too.
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Update... I have the multi part hose with bracket off, hurrah.

I made some cuts in the pipe to help it bend as I then pushed the bracket towards the front of the car, improving access.

Initially I tried this combo from DeWalt, impact driver with a flexible shaft and right angle... perfect fit, but not enough torque!



Then, a super ratchet, the perfect combination of angles and dimensions: articulating head, extending length handle for more torque, and a deep socket to give the correct clearance at the business end:



As usual, having the right tool for the job made it easy.

The bracket itself is curiously over-engineered, even the size of the bolt holding it to the engine seems unnecessarily big (13mm). I will replace it with the 'hack' part without a bracket (the main subject of this thread).

Next challenge is the crossover pipe, it looks like it has been weeping at the joint on the rear.

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