2011 5.0 XJL Supercharged

My steering wheel is dead. There is not a single light on the steering wheel and none of the functions work. Dashboard says: Cruise Control Not Available.

Engine Code: B10AC

I suspect the power to the lights on the steering wheel buttons comes through the Cruise Control as well, hence no lights.

Do you guys know the location of the Cruise Control Module? Is there a fuse that protects the module?

Besides the 2012 XJ - X351 Electrical Wiring Diagram I have no other documentation, so I have hard time locating modules in this car.

 

awegrzyn, since you have the supercharged version and most likely has the adaptive cruise control as part of that package, you are after the "adaptive cruise control module". This is located on the driver's side of the car at the base of the A pillar (ie, inside the dash, somewhere behind the vent there. The manual that I have is not more descriptive than that.

If you don't have the adaptive cruise control, then the cruise functions are controlled via the ECM which is on the passenger side of the engine bay on the firewall.

 

Cool. I guess I have to figure out if I have adaptive control or not.
Is there a website where I can pull that info based on VIN? I like the car, but it's sort of like a blind date.

 

Look at the "ToolS" drop down at the top of this page between "Members" and "Marketplace"

 

^ You made my day.

I don't see Adaptive cruise control on the list. That helps me a lot, since my cruise control is managed via ECM. The ECM could be the culprit here since water got into it, and it became unstable. That was my last thing to exchange in the car. I should be good from now on.

My Vin: SAJWA2GE2BMV02428

 

awegrzyn, hop in your car and look at the 3 o'clock position of your steering wheel. You will see some buttons relating to the cruise control of your car. You should see 3 layers of switches. The top layer is your general setting switches for the cruise control (top button being the set/increase speed button, the middle one being the RES or resume button and the bottom one being the decrease speed button). The bottom button is your shift paddle. The switch(es) in the middle are what we want to focus on. Do you have a single large switch that says "CAN" on it or do you have 3 buttons there? If you have the single "CAN" (cancel) switch, then you have the basic cruise control. If you have 3 buttons (top button being a dot with an arrows doing both directions - time gap decrease button or makes your car follow the car in front of you closer, the middle button saying "CAN" and the lower button showing a dash with arrows in both the up and down direction - increase the time gap between you and the car in front of you), then you have the adaptive cruise control.

 

Seems odd to me that all steering wheel controls would be out of action... do you have an airbag warning light as well?

The switches and lighting on the steering wheel are part of the LIN bus, which is a bit finicky at the best of times.

I'd be pretty sure the "cruise not available" is a symptom of a fault with the clock spring in the steering column, or another steering column related system, not the other way around..

 

Buttons:
Top: Set +
Middle: Res
Bottom: -
Behind: Can

So I have adaptive cruise control? I'm not sure I understand since the buttons are standard cruise control buttons like 20 years ago.

* Airbag warning light is ON. Not a single steering wheel function works.


Should I remove the air bag and test what's there? I assumed there is nothing there. It looks to me like the switches pass different voltage through the metal ring to the circuits.

I have a feeling the switches on the steering wheel get power from one source: ECM. That's why they are not working and maybe that's why the Cruise Control Not Available Message.

 

There are extra "chevron" buttons on the "behind" switch if you have adaptive cruise. With only the "Can" button, your car will not have this option.

 

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...20-%20X351.pdf

Don't guess, when you can know for sure, here's the wiring diagram you can see all the connections through the clockspring.

 

It turns out the clock spring tape was broken.

 

So it's fixed?

 

I have to resolder everything tomorrow. I will post once I fix it.

 

I fixed the steering wheel buttons and they are all workings. The air bag light does not clear, but there must be a procedure for clearing out that light.

 

Do you get an airbag flash code? For example the warning lamp may flash once, then a pause, then flash six times, before pausing and repeating the sequence. After 3 or so goes it will then remain on fully until the next restart. If it was the spring cassette (which is a common-ish fault) the warning lamp should reset itself automatically on the next start.

What exactly did you do to the cassette? It carries the airbag detonation signals and relies on an exact resistance. A resoldered joint could easily throw it out of tolerance. If the tape was actually broken, rather than just dirty and making a poor contact, then really it should be replaced. The cassettes (and most of the steering column) are X350 parts also fitted to the original XF (X250) and the final XKs, so are widely available ex-stock from dealer and parts broker inventory for around £50. C2P20958 is the current part.

 

Yes, the tape was broken, so I resoldered it. That would explain the problems. The airbag lights does not give me flash code.

Thanks for the tip.

 

This needs a bit more investigation to be certain if it is due to the repaired cassette.

If the airbag warning lamp comes on at startup and stays on continually without flashing first then it suggests the self-test has failed to run or complete.

My understanding of the process is - when ignition is selected the instrument cluster talks to the airbag module (RCM - bolted to the top of the transmission tunnel under the ash tray) and asks it to run a self-test where it will check each secondary circuit (sensors, squibs, etc) and report back when completed. The RCM sends the flashing lamp sequence for each code present and active before leaving the lamp on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. If the RCM does not report it has finished then the lamp stays on and is an indication that the self-test failed. Comms are done over the high speed CAN bus, and are not hardwired.

That symptom doesn't fit with the cassette alone being bad - you should get one or two codes relating to the driver front airbag.

As you have a fault with a critical safety system, that also has the chance to cause you serious injury or death should it malfunction, I can only recommend four things:

1) With the battery disconnected and left for 2 minutes check fuse 56 (10A) in the central junction fuse box. That is behind the rear seat back, and requires the cushion and back to be removed to gain access. (Instructions attached - you only need to do up till step 4.) If the RCM supply is dead that may match your symptoms.

2) With the battery disconnected and left for 2 minutes remove the steering wheel airbag again (place it outside the car facing upwards where it cannot cause injury - under the car by a wheel is a good place). Disconnect the cassette from the wiring harness and check for continuity from the plugs to the matching connector the other side of the cassette. The electrical schematic with pins identified is attached to this post. Be careful not to damage the connectors through probing. Do not do probe airbag connectors when still connected to the RCM or at any sensor or squib - you must disconnect the harnesses first as a multimeter can trigger detonation.

3) Read the DTCs for the vehicle. It should indicate why the lamp is illuminated. If you find no comms to the RCM then you have your culprit, otherwise you should be able to see which sensor/s or detonators are at fault. Replacement RCMs must be new and never used.

4) Replace the cassette with a new one.

If the issue still persists have the car recovered to a specialist. Do not drive the car when the SRS system is faulting. It may be safe to remove the fuse in (1) to ensure all detonator circuits are disabled, but do so at your own risk.

It would be helpful to know why the old cassette tape had broken. Was it corrosion? Have there been other faults in the car, or events that may have caused damage (flooding, fire, etc)?

 

Car was purchased on insurance auction. Lady drove into a sticking pole. Broke the headlamp and pushed the oil cooler plastic protection into the oil cooler. Made a hole in the cooler. Drove home with no oil and cooked the motor.

I am rebuilding it. I was able to actually finish it, and debug most of the issues, but I still have minor problems. The tape was broken because they were spinning the wheel while the column was disconnected.

I will do what you suggested and report back. My ODB2 scanner shows no codes, but that's a very generic scanner. I will need to order Jaguar specific device if I can't figure it out.

 

Did you replace the engine, or rebuild it? If replaced what was cost like - we've seen a couple of people looking to replace and the replacement engine cost seemed crazy...

 

What I did was bad. I assumed like a child that they produce parts for that engine. The engine had a cracked cylinder wall. We fixed that, but there were no parts for the internals. We could produce the piston rings for like $150, but that woman literally cooked the motor. The engine uses tons of plastic pipes to run oil to the variable timing mechanism. That was melted. I could not buy it, or see what it looked like to produce it and it became a headache. I couldn't buy valve seals either, but you can produce those.

I ended up buying a motor for $8000 (40,000) with everything. I swapped it myself as is actually very easy due to front crossmember/brace being removable. You can actually roll the engine on a dolly in and out of the car.

I have the old engine, and once I figure out what the plastic piping was like I can put it back together. It's actually a very complicated engine with tons of sub systems, very tightly packaged. I like it, but it will be time consuming.