2017 xj-L portfolio. 72K miles. Exploring a rattle in the dash on my wife's car. It also has suspension clunks. Noticed this saw dust type material on top of both shock towers. Any idea what it is? Any reason for concern?
Thanks.
I will have other questions related to this investigation.

 

2017 portfolio xj-L 72k miles. Investigating a dash rattle for my wife. seems to be coming from the passenger airbag area. Looking form the engine compartment, I see an air filter that i don't know how to access. How do I access it to change? the sound is in this region so would like to get access.
Thanks.

 

2017 portfolio xj-L 72k miles.
I am investigating a dash rattle for my wife. It is a metallic squeak that transitions to a sharp rattle on bumps. It came on quickly. Looking under the glove box there is nothing loose. It sounds like it is near the passenger airbag or more central. I have not been able to find instructions as to how to remove the glove box. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Trying to load a little video. Will see if it works.

 

Its the cabin air filter. there is a panel under the glove box where you can access it . Use the search function for details

 

Yes it is likely the upper shock mount. Again there is good information if you use the search function. It is likely the source of the noises too.

 

The noises she hears are likely due to the front shock mount deterioration you described as saw dust.

 

It's most likely a common wear item that has been discussed in great detail in a few posts.
Read through the post that we went through the whole experience here:
Squeaky Squealing chirping under dashboard - Page 3 - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
And the pictures you posted in the other posts you started are the cause of the noise.

 

Really? That is the same filter? I accessed and changed the filter under the glove box and did not think they were the same filter.
Thanks

 

If you have sounds coming from the dash they maybe from the upper strut mounts. Is it a metallic sounding noise?

Plus your pictures shows the classic failure of these upper bushings and that is all the foam crumbs around the top of the strut. If you look close you can see the shaft is no longer centered in the hole. I would replace both upper mounts before I did anything else. Fairly cheap and not hard to do on a lift.




Your looking at the cabin filter from the engine compartment. It comes out from inside after you remove the panel under the glove box as posted above. Glad to hear you have changed it as those get neglected pretty badly.
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@lsupcar I've merged all your threads about this here.

 

Thanks much Norri!
All in one place works good.
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Thank you guys so much. And thanks for combining my threads. I didn’t realize all the issues were related.
Yes, you have to know I searched first. I knew that would be the first thing someone would say. Haha. But did not see a post linking a video clip of my sound so was not sure my search results applied. And boy does it seem like the sound is in the dash and not somewhere else.
The car has been having a suspension knock/rattle for a few months that I thought was probably secondary to control arm or sway bar bushings. But looking underneath yesterday I did not see any issues there. Maybe it has been the upper strut mounts going out all this time.
Now I will search on how to replace the front upper strut mounts.
Thanks again.
Bill Z

 

Follow up.
i had the local independent shop change the front shock mounts and the dash and suspension rattles have been cured.
However there is now an “adaptive dynamics fault” which the shop says is coming from the left shock and he is unable to clear despite having the correct scan tools. He says I would have to replace the shock to the tune of $1700.
I searched for remedies and spent an afternoon disconnecting the battery and charging the battery fully. No success. The coolant overflow tank prevents easy access to the electrical connector. I don’t know why, but I am unable to easily remove the tank for fear of snapping off a plastic tab.
I am just living with it for now and am open to suggestions.
Another issue I am dealing with is what seems to be a left rear door lock problem that prevents locking and arming the alarm with the fob or door handle controls. This is despite replacing the door locking mechanism.
So kind of saving up problems for a possible trip to the out of town dealer service.

 

Here is a picture of the coolant overflow tank on my 2014. I lifted it yesterday to put new nuts on the shock mount underneath. I gently squeezed the left plastic tabs and lifted that corner clear of the plastic tabs and put a small piece of wood under the tank so it would not fall over them .Then released the single clip on the right and lifted up the tank pushing it over to the engine. The third fitting just rests on the metal bar underneath it. There is limited movement because of the hose on the bottom of the tank. You should be able to get the connector. All this assumes your car has the same tank!

 

Another thing to be aware of and careful with is the coolant level sensor that is also attached under the tank.

As far as the suspension failure, the pins of the connector that mates the top of the strut are pretty thin. One or both of them may have been bent if they weren't (reasonably) carefully handled & reconnected, so you can inspect the pins when you can get to the connector.

 

That tank takes up a lot of room!
I removed the tank completely for access but now recommend doing what was posted above.

The reason is the hose clamp at the bottom of the plastic tank is a bear to get on and off. Usually the tank has enough "wiggle" room to let you get to what you need to.
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Thanks for the advice.
I will give it another go.