I just noticed a leak on my wifes '17 F-Pace from the plastic coolant pipe on the front of the engine (by the oil filter). My question is this: Do I need to remove the supercharger to replace this pipe?

I've ordered all new Alloy pipes, but as its negative lots here right now, I'd like to just do this one first, and tackle the rest in spring.

Thanks,

wombat

 

Yes you can but i would advise to do both ,but if you're in a pickle it can easily be done ,the only problem just doing one is you put added pressure in the system, then the other plastic pipes will burst in time, go to my channel and you will see all my videos to help you out

 

With the supercharger removed, replace the heater pipe at the back of the engine with the aluminium version.

 

Thanks Guys,

I ordered a complete set of alloy pipes with the intention of just doing the top pipe for now as the weather is so cold, then attacking the remainder when the weather improves.

However, I now realize that was a dumb idea and I may as well just rent a garage heater and get it sorted.

Any tips on getting the supercharger free from the block? There are some horror movies out there of people resorting to engine hoists, and nearly launching them into orbit as they come free.

Thanks,

wombat

 

Smart choice. I would imagine the lower coolant pipe would snap if you tried to install a new aluminum upper pipe on top of it. That will turn a job you expected to take 15 minutes into a supercharger-off job that takes 4 hours.

I just did this job over the past week in the cold on my 2013 SuperSport 5.0SC (Bosch ECU). There wasn't any real trick to getting the supercharger free, just rock it back and forth grabbing the sides and levering up by holding the snout. I was working solo and did not use any engine hoist or pry bars. When you start getting desperate is when you start breaking stuff.

The job is so miserable that you might as well expand your scope and address everything underneath the supercharger that is known to fail. I spent just over $1K on parts and materials, but this is over $10K worth of work at a dealership, so I feel like I got a bargain. You work hard for it though- I'd do valve seals on a BMW N62 twice before I do this job again.
Here is a list of what I addressed/replaced:

-valve cover gaskets
-spark plugs
-Injector teflon and fuel rail seal kits x8 C2D24387 (Injectors need to be removed for the valve covers to come off, do not buy aftermarket or used injectors. Amazon slide hammer tool is essential to remove these injectors and profile the Teflon seals correctly. I had to weld additional counterweight on the slide hammer to remove some of these injectors successfully and one of them took over 500 whacks to remove- ouch! Soak the injector bores in penetrant for 24 hours before attempting removal. Do NOT lever against the valve cover or try to pry them out at a sideways angle or you will break the top of the injector off the lower solenoid unit and create a bigger problem for yourself)
-2x new Bosch injectors #62120 I broke while removing them
-upper and lower coolant pipes in aluminum (I used the Euro AMP kit with new water pump, pipes, rear manifold, in all-aluminum components as well as several hoses and seals you'll need: https://euro-amp.com/products/10-17-...44050298601671)
-rear coolant manifold OE seals AJ811600 to replace the cheap seals the aluminum replacement comes with
-coolant line from the front of the car to the to rear manifold, this has been updated without a bracket so it's easier to install T2H3431
-Throttle body to rear manifold hose AJ813614
-Expansion tank cooling vent hose C2D6362
-Radiator drain plug Dorman 61138
-Supercharger oil 150ml
-Bosch MAP sensor #0261230295, 4-pin, on the rear of the supercharger (it is cheap and only accessible with the SC removed)
-Accessory belt Dayco 5060968DR and rear smooth flanged idler pulley-Autozone Duralast 231629 (requires the SC belt tensioner bracket to come off to be replaced)
-I also cleaned carbon off the intake valves with B12 chemtool spray and a brass bristle drill brush.

 

Jaaag_drivah,

Thanks, great advice.

Since my last post I slowly came to realize that I may as well do everything under the supercharger in one go. The only thing I won't be changing out are the spark plugs, they were done at the dealership about 18 months ago (I was away for an extended period for work, and my wife panicked when she got the service required message. Year 6, 100K service runs to $2.5K!!!). Anyway, I hoping that as the supercharger has been off at least once, it may not have welded itself to the block.

I have also ordered a new snout and coupler, may as well do that while its out.

Thanks again,

wombat

 

Job done!

Not nearly as bad as I expected. Total time, including breaks, was about 6 hours. One thing I'd add would be replace the PCV valve(s) .[One on the V6, Two on the V8].
With the charger off it's super simple. Don't try and be careful with them, just rip them off.

wombat

 

That was quick! Did you do the valve cover gaskets too?

Wedging those fiberglass-matted firewall covers back behind the engine was the worst part of the whole job, right next to removing the injectors. Replacing the coolant stuff was easy, just a few tricky bolts. The sound symposer is a lot easier to remove with the supercharger pulled up and slightly forward.

 

Are you talking about working on your F-Pace or an XJ?

 

Sorry, Guys, I've been away testing one of the most stupid "advances" in aviation....I'm sorry DOGE fired me on Thursday, tried to rehire me on Friday, on Saturday I told them to FO. Now they think I'm 'Mission Critical' and I can't leave. Does that mean I get paid for doing FA?

Yes, I ripped out the symposer, that made the cross over manifold so much easier.

I also found oil at the back of the oil cooler, so I swapped that out.

F-Pace
Help supplied

 

I installed these upgraded PCV diaphragms. RXK claims the materiel is better. They have a number of Jaguar parts. I got the Y pipe O-rings from them too.
PCV Replacements

Now will they last any longer? Who knows but pretty cheap.
.
.
.

 

Ouch. Are you talking about the large stamped steel gasket that mates the cooler to the engine block? Super easy with the charger off but I haven't heard of a ton of pattern failures on those so I didn't bother doing it to mine.

 

Jaaag-drivah,

I'm talking about the gasket that fits under the oil cooler. Just because I have no wish to ever remove the supercharger ever again, I replaced the oil cooler, gasket and knock sensors. I also applied a thin bead of gasket sealer. (The knock sensors are FMO, [1N1A-12A699] don't pay $100 ea, when you can get 2 from a Ford dealer for $35).


wombat

 

Just to clean up this thread,

Here is the symposer delete kit I used.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12688886113...3Avlp_homepage

If the link doesn't work, search ebay for 'Symposer Delete Jaguar Land Rover Land'

Unlike the VAP kit, it doesn't offer a port to measure manifold pressure, then again, I don't want to measure manifold pressure! It (the kit), blanks off the manifold, vacuum line and plugs the firewall port. $49.99.

wombat

Edit:

I can't say that I've noticed a vast difference in the noise level since the delete, however access to the rear of the engine is now vastly improved. If, in the future I ever wanted to, which I don't, access the supercharger fill port I now could do it with the supercharger in situ.

PS. Used supercharger oil is THE most rancid, vile, obnoxious, disgusting smelling substance you will ever come across.

 

which brand of oil cooler did you go with?

 

RobT,

I'm pretty sure it is a Nissens 90944. I got it from Rockauto, but used a genuine OEM gasket from my local LR dealership. It seems to be working fine.

wombat

 

Wombat, was the rear metal coolant crossover heater pipe a two piece or a one piece that came in the kit? Also, did you do any flow checks or anything to confirm there were no blockages in the casting? What was the brand? I'm looking to buy just the rear crossover pipe at this time since I already have the other pipes.

 

FreedyJ,

The rear crossover manifold was/is the two piece cast alloy design.

After hearing the horror stories of the manifolds being clogged with casting sand, I blew it through with compressed air, then filled it with water to ensure there was a good flow.

I 'think' I got the pipe on Amazon and paid around $70ish for it. I feel your pain in picking the correct parts! While hunting around for my parts, I found numerous water pumps on Chinese sites that had "Made in Italy" marked on the casting in boxes (with a JLR part # sticker) marked "Made in Germany". I gave those a miss.

wombat

 

Wombat, if you don't mind, might you be able to tell me the manufacturer / brand or seller on Amazon for the rear manifold pipe you bought? I've looked at Shumeral, RCRBT, Novaparts, Flashmotor, and Mitzone ranging from $61 to $92. So far, I'm impressed with Mitzone at $92 and 100% positive reviews. The casting even looks better quality in the pictures than the others. Novaparts the cheapest has 100% negative reviews claiming leaks where the castings join.
Also, did you use the O ring seals that came with the part or use OEM Jag seals as Clubairth1 recommended when he did the job. I got concerned by that thread showing the melted seals because of inferior Chinese seals made of vinyl or some poor rubber.

 

This guy wasn't too happy with Mitzone. Sounds about as bad as it gets, and sounds like a credible review.