Ok, probably be getting my 2010 3ltr Diesel X351 next week. It has been a bit of a pain. I have some questions as to what my priorities should be. Wonder if you can help?

The garage said they would do the timing belt and water pump after I hesitated. Then they have spent 4 weeks trying to get out of it. They had said it would go to their Jaguar Dealership to get done but now they say there is no room so they are sending it to a local garage.

1/ Is it easy to confirm if this has actually been done? I did trust them (never dealt with them before) but they have since been dragging their feet.

Other questions.

The car has done 43k. So I am thinking,

Oil and Oil filter change.
Air and Cabin filter changes.
Seat Filter change.
Fuel filter change.

Those are definites.

I will also get the brake liquid checked.

2/ But then I am thinking transmission flush. The issue being there is nowhere near here, that I know, who do this. My local garage that i use say they can do a change but should I get a total flush of the system?


3/ After watching many a video of knackered plastic on the cooling systems, that has got me paranoid. I was thinking of getting a new thermostat and housing. Anything else you would recommend?

4/ I was also thinking of getting the wheel nuts changed to solid ones. I need to check what is on.

5/ Also ,years ago I bought a lidl oil extractor pump so I could change my own oil in the C5 but I kind of chickened out. So have been paying 185 quid each time but watching all the videos, the oil change of the x351 (in fact a lot of the maintenance) seems easy and simple. It's only a matter of confidence.

The only issue I would have, is resetting the computer. Can you recommend a OB2 computer to do this. I was looking at Xtool D7 but that may be a bit much Ģ.

I am stoked at getting such a car. Dream car for me. But I need it to go from NE Scotland to SW France, something my 06 C5 has done superbly for 10 years. But having watched the videos and seen how ****** the manifolds and pipes are constructed I have become a bit obsessed and terrified that I will have a coolant leak on a 10 hour journey to Portsmouth or worse the 7 hours south in France after, or back. It's kind of pulling back on the excitement. It is an old car.

For context, I bought another C5 with a knackered head gasket once, this, right after the timing belt on my previous car snapped costing 000's to fix, which occurred when collecting it from the garage and literally driving out onto the road, just after it had been in to get a new turbo, costing 000's, so...please go easy on my paranoia.

Anyway, some advice on the above would be welcome.

 

I have 3.0L 2010 as well.
To calm you down, i have 300t km / 184t Miles on dash, without failed manifold or plastic cooling piping. As everybody know the oil makes plastics britlle. Use only oil manufacturer recommend, since its verified not to attact used plastic type of the engine. (any brand advertising "meet the specks" not nessesary have correct ingedients. Maybe they do, but i choose not take the risk, since there are not much difference in price)
Coolant piping & water pump problems are most of petrol engine problems. There are only one reported weak part on top of the engine "Coolant Flange" (search any of these part numbers: 4H2Q8592BF, LR073372, 1357091, 1331447, 1316061) I still have original flange and water pump. (just ordered the flange though) I change coolant every 4 years like recommend. (coolant lubricates the axle seal inside of the pump, old coolant might lose its lubrication ability)
Even my XJ have been seen lot of road, i do not hesitate to take the cat for long journeys. (From Finland to italy exsample)
I do change the oils in every 10t km and i use oil extraction pump from lidl Just add bit flexible silicone pipe to connect it to the suction tube. Extremely easy.

Timing belt change: Not a big work at all. Factory give 4.5 hour for the work. I done it myself at 175t km. The high pressure fuel pump belt are bit harder, since its back of the engine, but 1st change are in 240t km, next 480t km. For timing the keys are needed for flywheel (behind starter motor) and CAM:s (key sets available in eBay)
To confirm if the belt have been changed i think it is possible to peek the belt from CAM pulley cover in top of the engine. There are rollers for backside of the belt, so if you can see printing on the belt, it havent been rolling long time over the rollers.

On your miles, the transmission flush is overkill. Normal change are enough. Note: Use ZF own Lifeguard 6 oil. (you have 6 speed, so have to use 6 oil) This are also quite easy to do youself, but need to get vehicle up. (will be messy otherwise)

Service reset can be dobe with JLR:s own SDD software, what are painfully slow to use just for a service reset. I bought Humzor OBD tool for Android. Its quite cheap, but still have quite good coverage of vehicles and it do reset x351 (havent tested facelift thought)

Did you C5 happen to had 2.7l V6 diesel engine? If yes, then the 3.0L diesel are quite familar to you, since itīs improved version of same PSA/Ford engine.

What you can expect to replace soon are the the "banana" arms on front axle. Lower front suspension arms have inner bushes what go soft or crack. Lemförder are originals and they donīt cost much and are quite easy to change. (wheel aligment needed) If you feel vibration on steering, specially on braking, there are high change that bushes have been gone. (i am on 3rd arms)

 

Hi thanks for the comprehensive reply which is also a reassurance. Luckily they are doing the belt and pump. Not aure about the diesel pump belt. Doubt it, although I think it comes in the kit.

My current C5 is a mrk2 136 2ltr. Love that car.
But looking forward to my XJ.

PS......is the Coolant Flange, just another name for tthe thermostat housing?

 

The thermostat do live in separate part in hoses at the front of engine. The flange are just midle of the V, front part of the engine.

 

Is this it?

Watched a video an this seemed to be buried in the engine. Especially to a non mechanical type like me.

Should I replace this as a precaution?

Bummer is they are doing belt and water pump as I type.

 

Hopefully you watched correct video. Here are one (is LR, but same engine)
The picture you added are correct part.
Note: There are thousens of vehicles on roads with this engine but not all have failed flange in their life.
If you are not confident, change it.
If you feel that you canīt do it yourself, you can take the car for a local garage.

 

Hello and Welcome!
2.) Agree that fluid need not be changed at 43k. Maybe double that, and when the time comes, be sure the shop follows the ZF video exactly. The 6HP26 tranny has deliberate and firm downshifts known as the "ZF Lurch". Well-documented and nothing to worry about.
5.) In addition to your pump, you'll need a 90mm, 15-flute socket to access the oil filter. The cap is plastic; don't use Channellock pliers, brace the housing when loosening and only snug it when tightening. I've found that warm (not too hot or cold) oil extracts easiest.
Yes, you will need a tool to reset the service reminder light. Get the make and model your British cousins use.
Your C5 probably came with Daylight Running Lamps as standard equipment. Depending upon your X351's previous owners, this feature may or may not have been software-activated on this particular car. Unfortunately, the early versions of these XJs have rubbish DRL operation. Either live with it or install proper aftermarket lights.
Remember to lock your car and keep the fob in a shielded bag or some distance from the car, otherwise your car battery will go flat quickly. If you don't get two fobs with the car, get a spare soon. Creating a fob from scratch is very expensive. You can use the smaller, lighter fob from later XJs.
2020 is the last map software update available for your car, so if you rely on this feature, upgrade before they run out of stock; there won't be any more made.
There is an aftermarket accessory that you can buy and install which will enable you to electrically lower the boot lid from inside the car, with the fob, or with the bumper button. It's one of the most popular add-ons members of this forum have done.

 

I am sure I could do this housing change. The reticence is entirely lack of confidence. I think for me it's the putting things back. After all, it's the climbing back down the mountain that usually kills you, not getting up it. That's a big job garage wise, so being able to do it yourself must save ĢĢĢ

Can I ask

"Coolant Flange" (search any of these part numbers: 4H2Q8592BF, LR073372, 1357091, 1331447, 1316061)

Are these numbers for one part or different parts. I don't get the numbering convention. If I got one of the above would they just fit?

Re. Transmission and all liquids etc

"Agree that fluid need not be changed at 43k. Maybe double that"

I know distance is a consideration but I also thought age was too? The car I am getting will be 13 years old. The reason I insisted on timing belt change was because of the age limitation on belt

Does the ZF transmission not have an age stipulation as well as a distance one for oil change? I read somewhere, 7 years.

This age issue would also affect other items too, no?

My C5 doesn't have daylight running lamps. To highlight how thick I am, I've never heard of them. But I assume these are always on side lights?

"2020 is the last map software update available for your car, so if you rely on this feature, upgrade before they run out of stock; there won't be any more made."

I read that you can download this as an update from Jaguar, put on a USB and update. Although I assume my car will have dire USB 1. So will take hours. Wish there was a way of upgrading that (USB 2 or 3).

Saw the boot mod. I intend to get that. Seems a bit of an oversight on Jaguar's part to have remote opening and not remote closing.

I will be disabling keyless entry and using faraday boxes i live right on the street. I was also looking at getting an immobiliser fitted.

Thanks for all the advice. Much appreciated

 

These part nr:s are all same part.

The transmission oils do not age in time, only by use / heat cycles. On engine oils its slightly different, since on engine the burning process leave always harmful, even corrosive particles on engine oil, therefore engine oils are recommend to change regulary, even the vehicle are driven low miles.
The timing belt have rubber and fibre construction what can start to detoriate by time. Fibre construction inside of the belt takes all the tension and canīt be visible checked since itīs under rubber cover. Its highly possible that belt can last double (or more) of given service life, but who want to take a risk.
Brake fluid are changed because its hygroscopic. It sucks moisture from air. Water boilds to gas in hight temp, and its possible to compress gas. -> Pedal to the metal. (happened me several times in racetrack - Skidding marks appears where you donīt them want to be)

Early x351 dont have DRL:s (Daylihgt Running Lights) Only "Park/sidelights" and mains. On factory SDD diag tool there are setting: "DLR for Scandinavian/Canada". When this are enabled the mains (low bean+tail lights) are allways On. There are an mod where Park/Sidelights are turned to function as DLR:s, but the brightness are not quite there and sharp fellow in MOT check will note that there are not correct markings on to be accepted as DRL:s. (i have turned DLR for Scandinavian/Canada feature On, since i like that co-drivers see and note that i am there -> less people try to change lane where i am)

The update can be downloaded, so itīs not going to "run-out". (key are needed though, but thats also generated by software using VIN, so that is not going to run out either)
Only USB1.1 port on system. There are an method to remove the automotive grade HDD and add it in home PC for an update. Some adapters, HDD host unlock key and some third party SW needed, so it needs some skills but possible. (will take 1/3 of the time vs USB, if you have all in hands and know what you do. By this its also possible to rescue the failed USB upgrade)
However: USB update seems to be safe as long as you follow instructions. Most important: Do not remove the pendrive once the upgrade started. Clue the armrest cover if needed
You can use the car mormally during the upgrade. It will continue when you next time start the vehicle. (No, you cannot remove the pendrive when parked - It will corrupt the upgrade)