Hesitation while accelerating
Hello guys,
I recently bought a Jaguar XJ X351 2.0T petrol year 2014 with 134k Kms not miles.
The issue i am having is the vehicle is hesitating while accelerating mostly between 3-5k rpm.
When i am full on throlle the car lacks power and i can’t go past 140 km/hr.
But the fun part is if i accelerate gently to 5-6k rpm and keep the high rpm for around 5-10 minutes the car returns to normal.
The hesitation would disappear and full power seems to be restored. The vehicle would drive normally after that. Even if i restart the vehicle the issue would disappear.
But if i drive at low rpm, even after hours of driving the hesitation will stay. It goes away only after driving at high rpm without flooring the gas pedal.
The car drives normally without any issue no noticeable engine misfire except the hesitation while driving. Cold start is normal without any shaking but it’s longer than other vehicles.
Thought it to be the gearbox but i guess it should be consistent if there was an issue with it. No Gearbox dtc code stored.
A mechanic told me could be the timing chain but he’s not sure,
No engine light
Got engine light and car went into limp mode only once while was going on a steep road(engine performance reduced) on dash
Restarted the vehicle and the fault went away
dtc code stored are(camshaft position sensor, O2 sensor, engine misfire, turbo underboost)
Once i got catalyst damage
Note* Car hesitates only when accelerating 3k-5k rpm
its drives verywell at low rpm
I am thinking clogged catalytic converter, maybe?
Anyone got this issue?
What are the possible causes?
What can be a solution?
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
I recently bought a Jaguar XJ X351 2.0T petrol year 2014 with 134k Kms not miles.
The issue i am having is the vehicle is hesitating while accelerating mostly between 3-5k rpm.
When i am full on throlle the car lacks power and i can’t go past 140 km/hr.
But the fun part is if i accelerate gently to 5-6k rpm and keep the high rpm for around 5-10 minutes the car returns to normal.
The hesitation would disappear and full power seems to be restored. The vehicle would drive normally after that. Even if i restart the vehicle the issue would disappear.
But if i drive at low rpm, even after hours of driving the hesitation will stay. It goes away only after driving at high rpm without flooring the gas pedal.
The car drives normally without any issue no noticeable engine misfire except the hesitation while driving. Cold start is normal without any shaking but it’s longer than other vehicles.
Thought it to be the gearbox but i guess it should be consistent if there was an issue with it. No Gearbox dtc code stored.
A mechanic told me could be the timing chain but he’s not sure,
No engine light
Got engine light and car went into limp mode only once while was going on a steep road(engine performance reduced) on dash
Restarted the vehicle and the fault went away
dtc code stored are(camshaft position sensor, O2 sensor, engine misfire, turbo underboost)
Once i got catalyst damage
Note* Car hesitates only when accelerating 3k-5k rpm
its drives verywell at low rpm
I am thinking clogged catalytic converter, maybe?
Anyone got this issue?
What are the possible causes?
What can be a solution?
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
Last edited by Norri; Sep 8, 2024 at 01:11 PM.
According you had catalust converter failure i think few possible issues. Btw If catalyst converter fails, the chancing it is not even half way for repair. In fact, it never should changed before the issue what broke it in first place is fixed!!! It will sure fail again.
You might have an airleak causing lean mixture, but less likely. This should be regonised by MAF and give an trouble code, so i would count that away. 2nd you might have turbo waste gate failure or weak turbo not giving enough boost. You had already underboost trouble code by MAP sensor. So check all piping and air ways or make an smoketest.
Most likely, or combination, you have leaking fuel injector(s) adding too much fuel in to the system and it can be roplets, not spray, so burning is not complete. O2 sensor can try to correct it by leaner mixture but you still have no power, because droplets don´t burn very well. Once you drive the engine very hot its able to burn everything away and you have power again. So, i would try to replace all four injectors first. (they are quite cheap; Ford engine used on high volumes on Mondeos etc..)
If that not help i would turn my eyes for turbo.
You might have an airleak causing lean mixture, but less likely. This should be regonised by MAF and give an trouble code, so i would count that away. 2nd you might have turbo waste gate failure or weak turbo not giving enough boost. You had already underboost trouble code by MAP sensor. So check all piping and air ways or make an smoketest.
Most likely, or combination, you have leaking fuel injector(s) adding too much fuel in to the system and it can be roplets, not spray, so burning is not complete. O2 sensor can try to correct it by leaner mixture but you still have no power, because droplets don´t burn very well. Once you drive the engine very hot its able to burn everything away and you have power again. So, i would try to replace all four injectors first. (they are quite cheap; Ford engine used on high volumes on Mondeos etc..)
If that not help i would turn my eyes for turbo.
My car seems to have a hesitation when I give a sudden acceleration. If I give a full throttle the car jerks or judders or Idk what the exact word is. But it gets hesitant to pull off. But while driving normally, the car gives me no issues.
What could possibly be the issue here? Any suggestions?
snaptube vidmate
What could possibly be the issue here? Any suggestions?
snaptube vidmate
My car seems to have a hesitation when I give a sudden acceleration. If I give a full throttle the car jerks or judders or Idk what the exact word is. But it gets hesitant to pull off. But while driving normally, the car gives me no issues.
What could possibly be the issue here? Any suggestions?
What could possibly be the issue here? Any suggestions?
2.0I inline 4? 3.0l V6 Diesel? V6 SC? V8? V8 SC?
Hello guys,
I recently bought a Jaguar XJ X351 2.0T petrol year 2014 with 134k Kms not miles.
The issue i am having is the vehicle is hesitating while accelerating mostly between 3-5k rpm.
When i am full on throlle the car lacks power and i can’t go past 140 km/hr.
But the fun part is if i accelerate gently to 5-6k rpm and keep the high rpm for around 5-10 minutes the car returns to normal.
The hesitation would disappear and full power seems to be restored. The vehicle would drive normally after that. Even if i restart the vehicle the issue would disappear.
But if i drive at low rpm, even after hours of driving the hesitation will stay. It goes away only after driving at high rpm without flooring the gas pedal.
The car drives normally without any issue no noticeable engine misfire except the hesitation while driving. Cold start is normal without any shaking but it’s longer than other vehicles.
Thought it to be the gearbox but i guess it should be consistent if there was an issue with it. No Gearbox dtc code stored.
A mechanic told me could be the timing chain but he’s not sure,
No engine light
Got engine light and car went into limp mode only once while was going on a steep road(engine performance reduced) on dash
Restarted the vehicle and the fault went away
dtc code stored are(camshaft position sensor, O2 sensor, engine misfire, turbo underboost)
Once i got catalyst damage
Note* Car hesitates only when accelerating 3k-5k rpm
its drives verywell at low rpm
I am thinking clogged catalytic converter, maybe?
Anyone got this issue?
What are the possible causes?
What can be a solution?
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
I recently bought a Jaguar XJ X351 2.0T petrol year 2014 with 134k Kms not miles.
The issue i am having is the vehicle is hesitating while accelerating mostly between 3-5k rpm.
When i am full on throlle the car lacks power and i can’t go past 140 km/hr.
But the fun part is if i accelerate gently to 5-6k rpm and keep the high rpm for around 5-10 minutes the car returns to normal.
The hesitation would disappear and full power seems to be restored. The vehicle would drive normally after that. Even if i restart the vehicle the issue would disappear.
But if i drive at low rpm, even after hours of driving the hesitation will stay. It goes away only after driving at high rpm without flooring the gas pedal.
The car drives normally without any issue no noticeable engine misfire except the hesitation while driving. Cold start is normal without any shaking but it’s longer than other vehicles.
Thought it to be the gearbox but i guess it should be consistent if there was an issue with it. No Gearbox dtc code stored.
A mechanic told me could be the timing chain but he’s not sure,
No engine light
Got engine light and car went into limp mode only once while was going on a steep road(engine performance reduced) on dash
Restarted the vehicle and the fault went away
dtc code stored are(camshaft position sensor, O2 sensor, engine misfire, turbo underboost)
Once i got catalyst damage
Note* Car hesitates only when accelerating 3k-5k rpm
its drives verywell at low rpm
I am thinking clogged catalytic converter, maybe?
Anyone got this issue?
What are the possible causes?
What can be a solution?
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
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According you had catalust converter failure i think few possible issues. Btw If catalyst converter fails, the chancing it is not even half way for repair. In fact, it never should changed before the issue what broke it in first place is fixed!!! It will sure fail again.
You might have an airleak causing lean mixture, but less likely. This should be regonised by MAF and give an trouble code, so i would count that away. 2nd you might have turbo waste gate failure or weak turbo not giving enough boost. You had already underboost trouble code by MAP sensor. So check all piping and air ways or make an smoketest.
Most likely, or combination, you have leaking fuel injector(s) adding too much fuel in to the system and it can be roplets, not spray, so burning is not complete. O2 sensor can try to correct it by leaner mixture but you still have no power, because droplets don´t burn very well. Once you drive the engine very hot its able to burn everything away and you have power again. So, i would try to replace all four injectors first. (they are quite cheap; Ford engine used on high volumes on Mondeos etc..)
If that not help i would turn my eyes for turbo.
You might have an airleak causing lean mixture, but less likely. This should be regonised by MAF and give an trouble code, so i would count that away. 2nd you might have turbo waste gate failure or weak turbo not giving enough boost. You had already underboost trouble code by MAP sensor. So check all piping and air ways or make an smoketest.
Most likely, or combination, you have leaking fuel injector(s) adding too much fuel in to the system and it can be roplets, not spray, so burning is not complete. O2 sensor can try to correct it by leaner mixture but you still have no power, because droplets don´t burn very well. Once you drive the engine very hot its able to burn everything away and you have power again. So, i would try to replace all four injectors first. (they are quite cheap; Ford engine used on high volumes on Mondeos etc..)
If that not help i would turn my eyes for turbo.
I have a turbo problem. Like I presented in another post on smoke under the bonnet
Left hand drive car. 3.0 diesel
Passenger side turbo has oil leak iin the exit gasket to the dpf
you can see the wet parte around the nuts. In addition, it has some oil on the cold part, intercooler part pipe. Not much, …. Yet, some 2…3 soda bottle caps…
The driver side has a gas leak I guess( can you have a opinion if its a gas leak?) but no oil leaks, and I looked at the other end that's not visible in the pic and its dry
So shiny oily on the intake of the driver side turbo guess its fumes and vapours. The pipe... Seems to te attached to cold part of turbo only by gasket.
Taking into consideration this:
Could I have one or multiple leaks on the recirculation gases system? I have watched a youtube on a discovery 3.0 diesel that had like 4-5 leaks of gaskets for the plastic pipes on gas recirculation system. And being those multiple leaks, generate accumulation of carter gases that could generate blow by? And by consequence.…. Return pipe on passanger side( that I think its the low pressure and rpm working turbo) to leak at both ends? Beside the possibility to have a problem with the return line?
So….. A leak or leaks in gas recirculation.….. Can generate turbo problems? Because gases in the carter and no pressure to recirculate properly? So…return feed pipe is blocked by badd install or over pressure in the carter because recirculation system not working?
Iddle has minor and rare moment when its.… just a bit jittery in traffic at stop and go. No suspicious noises.
And….. Vacuum pump could be a problem? And vacuum system is connected to recirculation system? Leaks would make recirculation system bad, also pump not doing enough with carter gases?
And……. Vacuum pump works with active mounts? Could a leak on the active mounts, beside the other leaks, cause too much leaks for vacuum pump?
Turbos are 3 months old since refurb and around 400 km since refurb. The passenger side has oil on both ends, the driver only fumes on cold end as seen on pics. I know the turbo could be bad from refurb…… but at this moment I consider some other problems.
Lot of quessing and nobody can say exactly where the issue is or can be for sure.
First clean everythng off and then go a have a spin and come back to see where oil actually leaks. (you might need several runs, depending how big / small leak is)
Check the inlet manifolds/cam covers as well, because if they leak, oil is coming above for these parts you see now oily. Yes, if cheap chinese turbos used as replacement they can leak in day 1, since the shaft sealing might not been made high pressision or correct material, but not nessesarly: I have seen very good chinese turbos as well. (even cheap ones) If the leak from turbo is minor it dosent matter. (five drop of oil looks like Exxon Valdez disaster over hot engine) Note: This could be diesel as well coming from above. I would check and solve all possible diesel leaks first. Check the fuel water sensor O ring at the botton of diesel fuel filter. (the sensor/connector/wires are wet if it leaks)
First clean everythng off and then go a have a spin and come back to see where oil actually leaks. (you might need several runs, depending how big / small leak is)
Check the inlet manifolds/cam covers as well, because if they leak, oil is coming above for these parts you see now oily. Yes, if cheap chinese turbos used as replacement they can leak in day 1, since the shaft sealing might not been made high pressision or correct material, but not nessesarly: I have seen very good chinese turbos as well. (even cheap ones) If the leak from turbo is minor it dosent matter. (five drop of oil looks like Exxon Valdez disaster over hot engine) Note: This could be diesel as well coming from above. I would check and solve all possible diesel leaks first. Check the fuel water sensor O ring at the botton of diesel fuel filter. (the sensor/connector/wires are wet if it leaks)
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