How to upgrade to 2016 headlights.
HI to everyone in this forum can we collect some good information about how to fix the new xj headlights with out any issues plus what is the wiring for it many thanks.
Take a look at https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...trofit-151665/. That should have all the info that you are after. Not a simple plug and play upgrade. Granted, a fairly pricy one too.
Nasser,
What model year XJ do you have? It's not in your public profile or your signature. Have you already bought all the parts? If so, how much did that cost? Are you doing the installation yourself or are you using an automotive electrician?
Stuart
What model year XJ do you have? It's not in your public profile or your signature. Have you already bought all the parts? If so, how much did that cost? Are you doing the installation yourself or are you using an automotive electrician?
Stuart
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Nasser,
I think you'll need the workshop manuals for the 2015 and 2016 including the electrical diagrams so you can compare them and see the changes made in 2016. I suspect there are differences in resistances in various circuits that if left unchanged will result in a warning light or other OBDII fault. You may also need a better automotive electrician. I hope you can get it sorted, and please keep us posted.
From my point of view, considering the cost of the parts and labor, I wouldn't even think of doing this mod since for me the cost doesn't justify the benefit. And that doesn't take the aggravation cost into account. Sure, I really like the new headlights, but I'd save my money and put it towards a 2017 XJ with the new and improved features. But that's just me, and I don't intend to criticize anyone about how they choose to spend their money. Your money, your decision.
Stuart
I think you'll need the workshop manuals for the 2015 and 2016 including the electrical diagrams so you can compare them and see the changes made in 2016. I suspect there are differences in resistances in various circuits that if left unchanged will result in a warning light or other OBDII fault. You may also need a better automotive electrician. I hope you can get it sorted, and please keep us posted.
From my point of view, considering the cost of the parts and labor, I wouldn't even think of doing this mod since for me the cost doesn't justify the benefit. And that doesn't take the aggravation cost into account. Sure, I really like the new headlights, but I'd save my money and put it towards a 2017 XJ with the new and improved features. But that's just me, and I don't intend to criticize anyone about how they choose to spend their money. Your money, your decision.
Stuart
Nasser,
Can you describe the exact issue you or your installer are facing? After unexpectedly obtaining a set of UK-spec LED lamps for peanuts from someone who bought them and found they were not plug-and-play, I've fitted them to my car this weekend so may be able to help while I still have the diagnostic process fresh in my mind.
Fitting to an earlier car with AFS is not particularly difficult (less the static cornering lamps*), and anyone who has done that sort of thing with headlamps in recent cars should have the bits in their toolbox to achieve it in a couple of hours. At a minimum you only need 3 relays (automotive grade, high temperature range, high cycle ones), and a couple of low fV power diodes. You don't need any new power feeds as the ones at the existing headlamp connector can be used for all the modes (normal lights on, and the parking lamps and hazzards which must be available with the ignition off), and you can gain the OEM behaviour of the signature lights coming on when the vehicle is unlocked not just when started. You don't need any power resistors. You can even test the new lamps without removing anything as the car harness cables are long enough to reach under the bonnet/hood.
1 relay is for the parking lamps to switch on the LED drivers.
1 relay is for the indicators as the LED version draws too much current and shuts off the MOSFETs.
1 relay is for the high beam activation again to stop the MOSFETs detecting a fault and shutting them down.
As all the wiring is already to the headlamps it may be easier to install the 3 relays at each lamp, otherwise you can install the indicator relays locally and put the other two upstream somewhere to share them.
* The static cornering lamps are no longer exposed at the connector in the LED headlamps, so require some internal modifications to wiring and SMT circuit boards to get them to work. It can be done (I've done it) but it is not a simple proceedure so unless you are desparate to have them I would not advise it.
As I had to disassemble the lamps completely to adapt those cornering lamps I opted to fit the relays inside each lamp housing and adjust the connector pin positions to work with the wiring in my car without modification (making them entirely plug-and-play). It made for a neater install. However there is plenty of space behind the headlamp units when installed in the car so you could easily make up and adapter harness per lamp. The connectors (male and female) are both readily available with pre-terminated leads as aftermarket Land Rover headlamp parts to make it simple to assemble with only access to soldering and heat shrinking tools.
I have documented my install and lamp modifications which I will post to the forum once I have tested the vehicle for a week to ensure there are no unseen faults. I will include a bit about making an adapter harness for everything but the static cornering lamps as that is the route I expect most people to take.
Can you describe the exact issue you or your installer are facing? After unexpectedly obtaining a set of UK-spec LED lamps for peanuts from someone who bought them and found they were not plug-and-play, I've fitted them to my car this weekend so may be able to help while I still have the diagnostic process fresh in my mind.
Fitting to an earlier car with AFS is not particularly difficult (less the static cornering lamps*), and anyone who has done that sort of thing with headlamps in recent cars should have the bits in their toolbox to achieve it in a couple of hours. At a minimum you only need 3 relays (automotive grade, high temperature range, high cycle ones), and a couple of low fV power diodes. You don't need any new power feeds as the ones at the existing headlamp connector can be used for all the modes (normal lights on, and the parking lamps and hazzards which must be available with the ignition off), and you can gain the OEM behaviour of the signature lights coming on when the vehicle is unlocked not just when started. You don't need any power resistors. You can even test the new lamps without removing anything as the car harness cables are long enough to reach under the bonnet/hood.
1 relay is for the parking lamps to switch on the LED drivers.
1 relay is for the indicators as the LED version draws too much current and shuts off the MOSFETs.
1 relay is for the high beam activation again to stop the MOSFETs detecting a fault and shutting them down.
As all the wiring is already to the headlamps it may be easier to install the 3 relays at each lamp, otherwise you can install the indicator relays locally and put the other two upstream somewhere to share them.
* The static cornering lamps are no longer exposed at the connector in the LED headlamps, so require some internal modifications to wiring and SMT circuit boards to get them to work. It can be done (I've done it) but it is not a simple proceedure so unless you are desparate to have them I would not advise it.
As I had to disassemble the lamps completely to adapt those cornering lamps I opted to fit the relays inside each lamp housing and adjust the connector pin positions to work with the wiring in my car without modification (making them entirely plug-and-play). It made for a neater install. However there is plenty of space behind the headlamp units when installed in the car so you could easily make up and adapter harness per lamp. The connectors (male and female) are both readily available with pre-terminated leads as aftermarket Land Rover headlamp parts to make it simple to assemble with only access to soldering and heat shrinking tools.
I have documented my install and lamp modifications which I will post to the forum once I have tested the vehicle for a week to ensure there are no unseen faults. I will include a bit about making an adapter harness for everything but the static cornering lamps as that is the route I expect most people to take.
Last edited by xdave; Aug 14, 2016 at 12:06 PM.
Nasser,
* The static cornering lamps are no longer exposed at the connector in the LED headlamps, so require some internal modifications to wiring and SMT circuit boards to get them to work. It can be done (I've done it) but it is not a simple proceedure so unless you are desparate to have them I would not advise it.
.... I will include a bit about making an adapter harness for everything but the static cornering lamps as that is the route I expect most people to take.
* The static cornering lamps are no longer exposed at the connector in the LED headlamps, so require some internal modifications to wiring and SMT circuit boards to get them to work. It can be done (I've done it) but it is not a simple proceedure so unless you are desparate to have them I would not advise it.
.... I will include a bit about making an adapter harness for everything but the static cornering lamps as that is the route I expect most people to take.
I frequent this X351 (XJ) and the X150 (XK/XKR) forums and the technical knowledge, expertise and helpfulness of some of those members has far exceeded my expectations. I want to recognize xdave for his post #11, above, and commend him for his efforts. Perhaps he can develop a wiring harness conversion kit for those of us who are not mechanics or engineers but nevertheless enjoy working on our cars depending, of course, on there being sufficient interest. One of the members of the X150 forum, WhiteXKR, designed and developed a remote control convertible top DIY kit that is amazing and is very popular with members of that forum.
I am happy to design and document a retrofit harness for each lamp (they are the same). It is easy to do, and the parts are widely available thanks to the part sharing with Land Rover models where this sort of thing is more commonly done. I'm unsure about actually making up kits to sell for a couple of reasons:
1) Messing around with my cars is a hobby. I simply don't have the time to make it a business with my other commitments.
2) Headlamps are safety-critical and if a harness I made for your car failed at night and caused a serious accident your insurer would (quite rightly) pursue me for liability. I do occasionally mod people's cars for them, but always with them physically present throughout so I can point out every change made and gain their assistance.
3) You ought to know how to modify it yourself because whilst I can work from the electrical schematics of 2011-2015MY cars, I can only test with my UK-spec 2010, so it is possible there may be software or control module changes that are not technical wiring changes but may change the behaviour. For example, the fault detection feedback from the MOSFETs that switch the indicators, or the way the battery saver module works may require changes to be made. US-spec cars are slightly different to most others in that they have amber side markers in the headlamps, and I am not sure of the regulatory requirement about when and how those should be active or whether that is taken care of automatically inside the LED units.
Hopefully as more people fit the new lamps we can gain a better picture of compatibility between the other model years and work out any changes. That's why I am interested to hear what the OPs issue is.
If you lack the skills to make a harness up yourself (and I do appreciate it is fine for me to say it is easy to do because I have done this sort of thing for a long time now and have all the tools to make it easy) any auto electrician would be able to do it for you, and I would not mind at all if another forum user wanted to make some up to sell on.
1) Messing around with my cars is a hobby. I simply don't have the time to make it a business with my other commitments.
2) Headlamps are safety-critical and if a harness I made for your car failed at night and caused a serious accident your insurer would (quite rightly) pursue me for liability. I do occasionally mod people's cars for them, but always with them physically present throughout so I can point out every change made and gain their assistance.
3) You ought to know how to modify it yourself because whilst I can work from the electrical schematics of 2011-2015MY cars, I can only test with my UK-spec 2010, so it is possible there may be software or control module changes that are not technical wiring changes but may change the behaviour. For example, the fault detection feedback from the MOSFETs that switch the indicators, or the way the battery saver module works may require changes to be made. US-spec cars are slightly different to most others in that they have amber side markers in the headlamps, and I am not sure of the regulatory requirement about when and how those should be active or whether that is taken care of automatically inside the LED units.
Hopefully as more people fit the new lamps we can gain a better picture of compatibility between the other model years and work out any changes. That's why I am interested to hear what the OPs issue is.
If you lack the skills to make a harness up yourself (and I do appreciate it is fine for me to say it is easy to do because I have done this sort of thing for a long time now and have all the tools to make it easy) any auto electrician would be able to do it for you, and I would not mind at all if another forum user wanted to make some up to sell on.
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