Hello fellow Jag Owners, here in the UK it is getting sub zero degree c, so I went to start the car, and lowered the front left window (driver side on the American market) it was very slow due to freezing water on the outside of the window, then tried to roll up the window it started to struggle to go up and I can see the courtesy light getting a bit dimmed when pushing the rolls button of the window then it cut out, now the window does not roll up, I checked the rear window behind the same side of the front window and nothing its like no power going to both windows on the same side, the other side all ok, I checked the fuses for both door modules all ok, I even disconnected both batteries and re connected them again and no change, is there a way to reset something?
Please help I urgently need it
Many thanks
The car is 2015 XJR

 

Hi Tom,

First and foremost, suspect the battery, especially as you mention the lights dimming when it was struggling.
I'm guessing the vehicle may be outside and you need to get that window closed asap so charging the battery might not be feasible. If you can start the engine and the generator is working ok that should give you enough power.

I think this is what you describe:
The front right window won't close.
The rear right window is closed and will not open.

If both of those are correct - can you operate the rear passenger/left window from the driver switch pack if the rear door switch does not work? If that works, check the rear window isolator switch at the bottom of the driver window switch pack has not been activated.

Does either window make an audible "clunk" sound when operating the switch in either direction?

Each window motor has its own control module per door. The front left/driver module is protected by fuse 32P/25A and the rear left/passenger module by fuse 39P/25A. Both are in the central junction fuse box which is located centrally behind the rear seat back. There is a LIN connection between the two modules for the driver switch pack control of the rear window, and for control of the rear window isolator function, but that is the only link between them. (There is a common power supply before that, but it is via a 50A fused link that protects other circuits as well. I think it is unlikely that would have blown in preference to one of the downstream fuses.)

I've looked at the electrical and functional/workshop diagrams and I can't think of a reason why both windows should be affected in the way you describe.

If you do hear a "clunk" when trying to close the driver window, is there any movement at all? Can you see/feel it judder?

Can you pull the glass up with your hands, or if none is visible does it look to be lower in the gap than the passenger side when that is fully opened? If so maybe the clamps have pulled off of the base of the glass. Check that it looks level too and not sitting at an angle as it might be jammed sideways. The glass rides on two white plastic carriers that clip into two holes in the base of glass. It would be difficult to pull the glass off as they are a right pain to release when you want them to, but I don't recall how the carriers are attached. Maybe something there has dislodged.

Otherwise if it is a malfunction of the anti-trap close function you can override it by releasing the button from the close position when you hear the "clunk" and then, within 2 seconds, press and hold the close button again. After a few seconds (I don't remember, but it may have been about 10 seconds) it should then rise a short distance and then clunk and stop again. You'd need to repeat this multiple times until the window is finally closed. Then you can reset the anti trap closed position by pressing and holding close for 2 seconds after the "clunk".
I have had that malfunction happen once on my car. Disconnecting the battery did not reset it like it normally should so I think the door controller might have crashed and stored some bad data in a byte somewhere that needed to be overwritten. It has not happened again.

If you get this far with no change then I would be looking to remove the door trims and look at the mechanisms. If mechanically it all looks fine then back probe the connectors to check the voltage to the motors (positions 5 and 6 at the motor, looking at the rear with the retaining level on top then the top left pin is position 1 and top right is 3 - 12VDC to 5 raises, and to 6 lowers). Those connectors are on the outside of the sealed cabin so be careful not to damage the wire insulation or it may corrode.

In an emergency you can manually close the window to keep the elements out: Remove the door card, pop the glass out of the plastic carriers by releasing each clip from the rear (a flat plastic prybar with a slightly angled end is ideal), then lift the glass by hand and tape over the top of the door to hold it up.

 

Hi Dave, Many thanks for the detailed descriptions, It is the left (passenger left front door (UK right hand drive)) that has the problem, there are no clicks when I try to close it and following this problem the passenger rear on the same side decided not work as well, I checked all the clear 25A fuses behind the centre arm rest of the rear seat all ok, so I got the car at the dealer now as it is still under Jaguar extended warranty I will update you once they find the problem.
Thank you
Tom

 

Ah yes, whoops, I misread that. Obviously the fuses will be different for the left hand side, but you have checked all the 25A ones anyway so it's not that. Hopefully the dealer will be able to resolve it for you.

 

Hi Dave, Just an update after checking at the dealer the car had a malfunction window motor so the dealer replaced the motor and the regulator and all the windows are working fine now.
Many thanks for all your help very much appreciated.
Tom

 

Tom,

Good to hear you got it fixed. I've added "RESOLVED" to your thread title.

Graham

 

Thank you Graham