Loud Ticking noise on cold startup
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Loud Ticking noise on cold startup
Hi Guys I’m New to Jaguar Community I switched from Bmw to Jag and I noticed a ticking noise on my JAGUAR XJL 2016 72k Km 3.0 Supercharged Petrol on Startup and goes away after idling for 5 to 10 Minutes. I live in Alberta Canada and It’s pretty cold here. I don’t know if it’s normal or not I’m uploading 2 videos one Cold and after when it’s warmed up for 10 minutes Thank you for your help in Advance 
. Video Link Cold https://youtube.com/shorts/Glr8bBb9T0Y?feature=share
Warm https://youtu.be/brN6T5OotUY
. Video Link Cold https://youtube.com/shorts/Glr8bBb9T0Y?feature=shareWarm https://youtu.be/brN6T5OotUY
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Thanks Brother
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From: Adelaide, South Australia
Yes the AJ126 and AJ133 are inherently noisy "ticky" engines even when perfectly healthy but that is mainly down to the HP fuel pumps and especially the injectors (due to GDI and very high fuel pressures) but the noise that engine makes when cold per the first vid is much worse than that.
This is what I said in a parallel thread from the OP:
"My best guess is timing chain noise.
This engine and the AJ133 5.0 V8 it is derived from are relatively notorious for having noisy/rattly timing chains once they get a bit older, especially on a cold start and then going away once warm. Because the chains wear after high mileage especially if subject to lots of cold starts where the oil takes a little while to properly get to them. Another cause of rattling timing chains is a maxed out chain tensioner which allows the chains to loosen up but that was fixed before 2016 and is quite rare on the AJ126.
How often do you change your oil? It is well documented that the JLR specified oil change interval of 26,000 km is way too long and causes problems such as timing chain wear due to sludge build up, and it is good practice to change the oil at least twice as often as that. And what viscosity do you use? Originally the recommended viscosity for this engine was 5W-20 (and 5W-30 for the early AJ133 V8) but in 2014 JLR change it to 0W-20 particularly for cold climates such as where you are. So if you are not already using 0W-20 you should switch to it, and also go for one that meets the ILSAC GF-6A spec.
The other common cause of a rattle on cold start is a worn SC coupler/torsion isolator but I don't think that is what I hear here.
The coupler rattle is very irregular, like marbles in a tin can, whereas what I hear here is extremely regular and rhythmic and that is why I am guessing timing chain(s).
The big tell tale of a worn SC coupler is a loud "clonk" from the top of the engine on shut down, not every time but much of the time, do you have that?
Other possible causes are a worn HP fuel pump bearing, a worn coolant pump and a worn SC belt tensioner all of which sound similar and are difficult to diagnose.
I recommend you take the car to an experienced JLR mechanic, preferably an independent not a dealership, and ask them to diagnose the cause of the rattle."
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I doubt that rattle is normal, maybe the service advisor was having a lend of you. In the first vid with a cold engine it is waaaay louder than in the second vid with a warm engine and that is not normal.
Yes the AJ126 and AJ133 are inherently noisy "ticky" engines even when perfectly healthy but that is mainly down to the HP fuel pumps and especially the injectors (due to GDI and very high fuel pressures) but the noise that engine makes when cold per the first vid is much worse than that.
This is what I said in a parallel thread from the OP:
"My best guess is timing chain noise.
This engine and the AJ133 5.0 V8 it is derived from are relatively notorious for having noisy/rattly timing chains once they get a bit older, especially on a cold start and then going away once warm. Because the chains wear after high mileage especially if subject to lots of cold starts where the oil takes a little while to properly get to them. Another cause of rattling timing chains is a maxed out chain tensioner which allows the chains to loosen up but that was fixed before 2016 and is quite rare on the AJ126.
How often do you change your oil? It is well documented that the JLR specified oil change interval of 26,000 km is way too long and causes problems such as timing chain wear due to sludge build up, and it is good practice to change the oil at least twice as often as that. And what viscosity do you use? Originally the recommended viscosity for this engine was 5W-20 (and 5W-30 for the early AJ133 V8) but in 2014 JLR change it to 0W-20 particularly for cold climates such as where you are. So if you are not already using 0W-20 you should switch to it, and also go for one that meets the ILSAC GF-6A spec.
The other common cause of a rattle on cold start is a worn SC coupler/torsion isolator but I don't think that is what I hear here.
The coupler rattle is very irregular, like marbles in a tin can, whereas what I hear here is extremely regular and rhythmic and that is why I am guessing timing chain(s).
The big tell tale of a worn SC coupler is a loud "clonk" from the top of the engine on shut down, not every time but much of the time, do you have that?
Other possible causes are a worn HP fuel pump bearing, a worn coolant pump and a worn SC belt tensioner all of which sound similar and are difficult to diagnose.
I recommend you take the car to an experienced JLR mechanic, preferably an independent not a dealership, and ask them to diagnose the cause of the rattle."
Yes the AJ126 and AJ133 are inherently noisy "ticky" engines even when perfectly healthy but that is mainly down to the HP fuel pumps and especially the injectors (due to GDI and very high fuel pressures) but the noise that engine makes when cold per the first vid is much worse than that.
This is what I said in a parallel thread from the OP:
"My best guess is timing chain noise.
This engine and the AJ133 5.0 V8 it is derived from are relatively notorious for having noisy/rattly timing chains once they get a bit older, especially on a cold start and then going away once warm. Because the chains wear after high mileage especially if subject to lots of cold starts where the oil takes a little while to properly get to them. Another cause of rattling timing chains is a maxed out chain tensioner which allows the chains to loosen up but that was fixed before 2016 and is quite rare on the AJ126.
How often do you change your oil? It is well documented that the JLR specified oil change interval of 26,000 km is way too long and causes problems such as timing chain wear due to sludge build up, and it is good practice to change the oil at least twice as often as that. And what viscosity do you use? Originally the recommended viscosity for this engine was 5W-20 (and 5W-30 for the early AJ133 V8) but in 2014 JLR change it to 0W-20 particularly for cold climates such as where you are. So if you are not already using 0W-20 you should switch to it, and also go for one that meets the ILSAC GF-6A spec.
The other common cause of a rattle on cold start is a worn SC coupler/torsion isolator but I don't think that is what I hear here.
The coupler rattle is very irregular, like marbles in a tin can, whereas what I hear here is extremely regular and rhythmic and that is why I am guessing timing chain(s).
The big tell tale of a worn SC coupler is a loud "clonk" from the top of the engine on shut down, not every time but much of the time, do you have that?
Other possible causes are a worn HP fuel pump bearing, a worn coolant pump and a worn SC belt tensioner all of which sound similar and are difficult to diagnose.
I recommend you take the car to an experienced JLR mechanic, preferably an independent not a dealership, and ask them to diagnose the cause of the rattle."
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And I noticed it comes from right side of the engine
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If a timing chain gets too loose the chain can skip a cam sprocket tooth or two or three.
One tooth not too bad, just a bit out of time and the engine runs poorly, but two or more teeth and valves say hello to pistons (it's an interference engine) and you are looking at $25,000 for a new engine.
You also say "right side of engine" which suggests it could be one of the two HP fuel pumps as both are mounted on the right side of the engine, especially the secondary or number 2 pump. Right side looking from the cabin that is, left side looking at the engine bay while standing in front of the car!
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You should at least get it diagnosed asap as it could be something serious such as quite loose timing chain(s), unlikely but possible.
If a timing chain gets too loose the chain can skip a cam sprocket tooth or two or three.
One tooth not too bad, just a bit out of time and the engine runs poorly, but two or more teeth and valves say hello to pistons (it's an interference engine) and you are looking at $25,000 for a new engine.
You also say "right side of engine" which suggests it could be one of the two HP fuel pumps as both are mounted on the right side of the engine, especially the secondary or number 2 pump. Right side looking from the cabin that is, left side looking at the engine bay while standing in front of the car!
If a timing chain gets too loose the chain can skip a cam sprocket tooth or two or three.
One tooth not too bad, just a bit out of time and the engine runs poorly, but two or more teeth and valves say hello to pistons (it's an interference engine) and you are looking at $25,000 for a new engine.
You also say "right side of engine" which suggests it could be one of the two HP fuel pumps as both are mounted on the right side of the engine, especially the secondary or number 2 pump. Right side looking from the cabin that is, left side looking at the engine bay while standing in front of the car!
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From: Adelaide, South Australia
Anyway if it was a steady check engine light and you cleared it easily and it didn't come back then very little chance it has any connection to the engine rattle.
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Not sure what you mean, there is no "O2 sensor light" I have ever heard of in the F-Type. Yes, a check engine light or MIL with an associated O2 sensor DTC/error code, but no O2 sensor light as such. A steady check engine light is almost always emissions related and in turn often O2 sensor related but a flashing check engine light usually means something much more serious.
Anyway if it was a steady check engine light and you cleared it easily and it didn't come back then very little chance it has any connection to the engine rattle.
Anyway if it was a steady check engine light and you cleared it easily and it didn't come back then very little chance it has any connection to the engine rattle.
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Very good advice given!!
Take the serpentine belt off and start the engine. That will eliminate any noise from the SC and the only noise left will be from the engine. Is it any different?
Also be aware that Jaguar has issued an extended warranty on O2 sensors so you just might get them replaced for free?
Take a look at the attached document.
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Take the serpentine belt off and start the engine. That will eliminate any noise from the SC and the only noise left will be from the engine. Is it any different?
Also be aware that Jaguar has issued an extended warranty on O2 sensors so you just might get them replaced for free?
Take a look at the attached document.
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From: WI
The ticking/clatter I heard was/is consistent with my wife's 17 F-Pace. From the video, and too my ear, the noise remains at the same frequency when the engine is revved.
The fact, that the frequency doesn't change with RPM, would tend to rule-out anything within the rotation cycle, or cam driven cycle of the engine.
I truly don't know if the fuel pumps are driven by a variable plate CSDU (Constant Speed Drive Unit), or just a plain cam drive, either would work although I suspect the former would be preferential option...but I'll have a look.
Again, as the noise isn't affected by RPM, look at things that are rotating because they need too! The fan springs to mind, but that shouldn't rotate at start-up unless the a/c demands it.
Again, my service Guy had nothing to loose by saying 'it's normal"
wombat
The fact, that the frequency doesn't change with RPM, would tend to rule-out anything within the rotation cycle, or cam driven cycle of the engine.
I truly don't know if the fuel pumps are driven by a variable plate CSDU (Constant Speed Drive Unit), or just a plain cam drive, either would work although I suspect the former would be preferential option...but I'll have a look.
Again, as the noise isn't affected by RPM, look at things that are rotating because they need too! The fan springs to mind, but that shouldn't rotate at start-up unless the a/c demands it.
Again, my service Guy had nothing to loose by saying 'it's normal"
wombat
Last edited by wombat; Mar 22, 2022 at 07:00 PM.
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