Novice diagnosing a small oil leak on the 5.0 SC V8
#1
Novice diagnosing a small oil leak on the 5.0 SC V8
My XJ has a small oil leak I have noticed on the garage floor. I am a novice with DIY car repair and would like to try to diagnose this myself. I know the first step would be to remove the shielding. Should I keep the car on a level surface, or put it in 4 jack stands? Any tips of what to look for in a 5.0 V8 SC? Engine monitor oil level is fine.
#2
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 5,593
Received 2,601 Likes
on
1,794 Posts
If you decide to put your X351 on jack stands, refer to the Workshop Manual as to the correct way to raise the vehicle so the body is not twisted. If the car is being lifted onto jack stands, it must be raised equally with two floor jacks, one on each side of the vehicle to prevent damage.
#3
#4
Front, middle, just behind the front axle. Very small but it's there. And I know these don't get any better. The shield is on (I do oil changes via extractor). I don't have 2 Jacks so I'll have to figure that one out.
#6
Yes check the vacuum pump on the front of the engine.
It could be a very simple and cheap fix.
The dealer will for sure replace the entire assembly at a high cost but all the DIY threads have just replaced the O-ring. In fact what I have seen is it's usually loose bolts which cause the leak and NOT a bad O-ring.
But with the cost of everything please put a new O-ring in!
.
.
.
It could be a very simple and cheap fix.
The dealer will for sure replace the entire assembly at a high cost but all the DIY threads have just replaced the O-ring. In fact what I have seen is it's usually loose bolts which cause the leak and NOT a bad O-ring.
But with the cost of everything please put a new O-ring in!
.
.
.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
My leak in front was from the mechanical vacuum pump. Located on the lower front of the engine. I had to raise the vehicle and remove the drip pan to get to it. Very easy to get to underneath. At 110,000 miles I decided to replace the pump. Two bolts hold it on. When you remove the pump, you will lose oil, replace what you lose. I was having a slight hard downshift from 2nd to 1st gear when coming to a slow stop. I no longer have that problem.
*** side note, the new pump needed slightly longer bolts. Maybe 3/8 inch longer. Luckily we had some available.
*** side note, the new pump needed slightly longer bolts. Maybe 3/8 inch longer. Luckily we had some available.
Last edited by Polyesterpig; 03-28-2020 at 03:13 PM.
#9
#13
#14
I was able to tighten them, but not too much. I know their specs are 12nm as per the service manual, but my torque wrench won't fit in there. So I just tested and I'll monitor for leaks, and order the O ring in the meantime.
#16
#18
#19
They started using a longer bolt on the vacuum pump in the last few years. I know my tech switched mine over to the longer one when my pump was done.
EDIT: I see I already posted this info and the part number above. Sorry.
If the manual says 12nm force, then okay. But that sounds way to low (~8.9 ft-lbs).
Perhaps reclean the o-ring, rub some clean oil on it, and then bolt it on again to specification.
EDIT: I see I already posted this info and the part number above. Sorry.
If the manual says 12nm force, then okay. But that sounds way to low (~8.9 ft-lbs).
Perhaps reclean the o-ring, rub some clean oil on it, and then bolt it on again to specification.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
drinkycrow
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
7
10-28-2015 08:49 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)