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OEM brakes durability, should I just upgrade to something else?

  #21  
Old 12-05-2018, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1 View Post
They are very easy BUT have you done brakes before? You know how to retract the caliper piston? The fronts are easy because a C-clamp will work.
Are you sure you need rotor's?
See the above posts. I don't change them until needed. Same with the wear sensors because I change pads before I hear noise.

Did all 4 wheels on my 2014 XJR for about $200+ just pads. Used Porterfield CF/Kevlar pads for dusting reasons.
I can't find ceramics and really would like to find some Akebono's.
Had those for almost 70K miles on my old 2005 S Type R.
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Hi clubairth1,

Thanks for the reply. This will be my first brake job ever. I have been reading repair manuals and watching YouTube videos, but admittedly I am still a bit nervous. If you have any other good resources, Iíd love to hear about them.

I think the rotors are definitely due. I measured my rotors with a caliper, and they are all below the minimum spec by at least half a mm. It also feels like there is significant rotor runoff (albeit I havenít formally measured this). I bought the car two months ago from a guy who stated he had never changed the rotors, only pads, during his 33,000 miles of ownership (he owned it from 45000 miles - 78000 miles). Of course I donít know when they were changed out before that either. The pads are in good shape, but was thinking to change them out too if the brake kit includes new ones.

Appreciate any and all suggestions.
 
  #22  
Old 12-06-2018, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by XJ8JR View Post
I've had good luck with R1 Concepts drilled rotors and OEM style Pagid pads. You'll also need the Brake Pad Wear Sensor (one on driver's side front and one on passenger side rear).
Did you use Eline or Geomet for the R1 Concept rotors? Is there a reason you didnít go with their pads too? I donít see oem style pagid pads, do you have a link?

thanks!
 
  #23  
Old 12-07-2018, 12:06 PM
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I've used the Geomets before on my old car but I went with the all black ELines this time so that the hats would stay black instead of turning into an ugly rusty color. R1 usually has some sort of 15-20% discount code floating around, so try and find that before ordering. And sometimes their prices are better through the Ebay store. I went with drilled this time but I'm sure they have blank style Elines as well. I felt bad for the UPS man because these rotors are gigantic.
Fronts: 623-20026L/R
Rears: 623-20027L/R

Personally, I haven't had good experiences with ceramic pads, so I stick to the dirty dusty OEM style manufacturers like Pagid, Textar, TRW, etc. You can find them on Rockauto, ebay, etc.
Fronts: Pagid 355015701
Rears: Pagid 355015901

As for the sensors, I just went with whatever was the cheapest at the time. You may be able to shop around more.
Front Brake Pad Sensor: Hamburg-Technic C2P12722
Rear Brake Pad Sensor: Carlson 19147

Don't forget to clean and lube the caliper sliding pins. And you'll need something like this to properly wind back the rear caliper pistons:
Amazon Amazon
 

Last edited by XJ8JR; 12-07-2018 at 12:12 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-07-2018, 01:03 PM
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If you have never done brakes I think we have a thread on XJ brakes?
It would be worthwhile to look at it.
Sorry it's on the XF forum but the brakes are the same across models.
Brakes

Do you have the red brake calipers? I ask because there is a stiff piece of wire on my XJR that snaps off and on and it WILL ding the red paint.
Plus it's a SOB it get back in!
In fact my next project is caliper paint because of this paint damage.

Even though you are only planning to do the fronts I would ask that you at least inspect the rears as well.
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  #25  
Old 12-07-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1 View Post
Do you have the red brake calipers? I ask because there is a stiff piece of wire on my XJR that snaps off and on and it WILL ding the red paint.
Plus it's a SOB it get back in!
Yes! That stupid thing pissed me off because its impossible to not scratch the paint.
 
  #26  
Old 12-07-2018, 03:38 PM
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FYI, the TRWs ARE Ceramic pads:

Amazon Amazon

I purchased these nearly 2 years ago, put them on Bosch rotors, and they are still going strong, front and rear. Not dust free, but not far from it.
 
  #27  
Old 12-10-2018, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1 View Post
If you have never done brakes I think we have a thread on XJ brakes?
It would be worthwhile to look at it.
Sorry it's on the XF forum but the brakes are the same across models.
Brakes

Do you have the red brake calipers? I ask because there is a stiff piece of wire on my XJR that snaps off and on and it WILL ding the red paint.
Plus it's a SOB it get back in!
In fact my next project is caliper paint because of this paint damage.

Even though you are only planning to do the fronts I would ask that you at least inspect the rears as well.
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I donít have the painted calipers, just the cheapies. I guess Iím glad thatís not a problem to look forward to (though I love painted calipers). My rears also need to be changed, but I was going to pay my indie to get them changed as they have the diagnostic program to release the parking brake.

I ended up ordering the R1 Concept rotors and oe pads based on the above recommendation. The OE style pads they sell are ceramic/ metallic hybrids (according to the salesman). Of course they say theirs are better than the OEM ones. They apply the 20% discount if you tell them you are a forum member.
 
  #28  
Old 12-11-2018, 10:09 AM
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Sounds like a another active thread is suggesting I can do my own rear brakes too without worrying about the rear parking brake. So I may give it a shot too. Bought the recommended wind back tool. Thanks everyone.
 
  #29  
Old 12-11-2018, 12:10 PM
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Yes give it a try.
Saves you money and you can be sure it's done right.
We are here if you run into troubles.

Remember it's just a car!
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  #30  
Old 12-11-2018, 01:38 PM
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For sure you can do the rears yourself with the caliper tool set. No need to pay someone else.
 
  #31  
Old 12-11-2018, 03:43 PM
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Re brake scimming, common practice here in NZ, gives the new pads a surface to bite onto to assist de-gassing the pads.
When/if you do the replacements make sure that you open the bleed nipples during piston push back to evacuate the old/dirty fluid. And 2nd the caliper pin clean/lubicate.
 
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