So, the guys who I have settled on to do the repair are insisting on upgraded cylinder head studs bc of everything in my car. That being said I know VAP has them, but I was wondering if anyone else knew where you could get some for less than that. VAP themselves said they really didn't even think them necessary bc you don't start seeing bolt stretch until at or after 800hp. So just looking to save any money possible considering this repair is thru the roof as it is. the VAP set with shipping is going to be like $715. wish they had a discount code haha.

Upgraded Cylinder Head Stud Kit for Jaguar Range Rover AJ133 5.0SC Engines

Thanks!

 

Just stop overheating your engine. You can spend $1M on new head studs and you’ll still warp the heads when you overheat the engine. You definitely overheated it by what you said in the other thread.

 

You are right I carefully maintained and improved my XJR for 8 years just waiting for those pvc coolant lines to reach just the perfect tensile strength to where they blew simultaneously I could gun it
and overheat it and warp the heads and blow the headgaskets. Man I had Been looking forward to this day for a long long time. So thankful it’s finally here and I got to enjoy it and drop a load of money.

you act as if I made it a daily occurrence of overheating it or I ran it daily without coolant.

 

That's your brain inventing things. I did act in any such way. You are trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist. The stock head studs are just fine. You're problem is that you overheated your engine by neglecting the well known weakness of the coolant pipes and now you have to pay the piper. Don't get angry at people trying to help you. I am just confirming what VAP already told you. It's ridiculous that you are blaming the stock studs for your own mistake. Good luck buddy. You're going to need it!

 

When someone says just stop overheating the Engine they reader takes it to mean that the commenter is making a passive aggressive comment about frequent overheating occurrences or on a more regular basis

otherwise you are making a comment that is common sense about spending a million bucks on studs clearly no fix or prevention will stop warpage outside of proper eat cycling.

back to my original comment I don’t want to buy reinforced studs I think it’s pointless seeing as I between the 700-800hp mark but they are insisting or won’t warranty it I’ve spoke to VAP on countless occasions (they have done lots of work for me) and like I said earlier they said this was pointless also. (As I explained to the mechanics also) So unless you have a valid place to point me your comments have served no real purposes. It was as useful as as educating as don’t drop that hammer on your foot it will hurt. Clearly reinforced studs of any amount won’t solve overheating. It’s for bolt stretch with high HP applications. I’ll be sure to check back in when I am ready to determine if expensive oils and additives will help you permanently forgo any and all future oil changes.

 

you will blow up the rest of the motor before the heads lift, at least on an M11 thread engine. if you go to other platforms there’s people out there making 4 digit numbers on USED tty head bolts

the real concern with a cooked motor is it pulling threads out of the block, seen it more than once and part of the reason people are so scared to touch these.

20 properly installed timeserts will be stronger than the original thread but that’ll crash the budget guaranteed.

 

Are you planning on decking the block and the heads and checking the cylinders with a bore gauge? You're already in for a LOT of labor at this point. Good cores on these are expensive, but so is machine work.

 

xalty thanks for finally explaining the reason for the larger 11mm head bolts over the stock 10mm size. I saw the rebuild places advertised this as an improvement and it is but I had always questioned why?

Had not seen any reports of the threads pulling in the block either but you work on these things daily. Thanks for the Time Sert suggestion as that is always a great idea on any Aluminum engine. I have heard of stock Aluminum engines coming with steel thread insets from the factory and thought that was the best solution by far.

Jlohojo7 would the rebuild place be satisfied with new stock size 10mm bolts? It appears both the 10mm and 11mm use a 1.5mm thread pitch.
They are not too expensive and there is a good supply on Ebay?
Here is a set of 20 stock size ones for under $100.
Stock 10mm X 175mm Jaguar Head Bolts

I also see a few 11mm versions for around $150 for a set of 20. These are not ARP but some off brand.
Jaguar 11mm X 178mm Head Bolts

A guy in Poland is selling the 11mm versions in the ELRING brand which again I have never heard of.
Jaguar Head Bolts 11mm X 178mm

Maybe that would be good enough for your shop? At least they could take a look and decide.

I understand your frustration with this whole mess but lotusespritse is trying to help.
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.
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Furthermore, it has come to my attention that I wasn’t using the appropriate coolant.only twice distilled water. Only for that fact that I wasn’t using any at all because my thinking was if I don’t use it then it can’t boil, and water can’t be boiled for a third time due to general laws of nature and relatively. It’s science.

 

I'm not sure what that means, but I am sure that you do not want to use undiluted engine coolant without water.
IIRC Water is a critical component to actually provide cooling in a water-based engine coolant, not to be confused with PAO or other waterless coolants.
If you were using distilled/purified water without coolant, that would likely cool better than (undiluted) coolant without water.
Engine coolant generally helps as an anti-freeze and helps prevent corrosion.
Fortunately (but not as far as value) most off-the-shelf engine coolants you find retail are 50/50 diluted already, for those not mechanically-minded to add without worry. It just cost way more than what 1/2 the coolant + a jug of purified water would cost to mix it ourselves. Adding water to that wouldn't be right.

 

You have to buy specially made waterless coolant. I currently have Evans waterless coolant in a 2020 Mercedes GLC300, a 2014 Range Rover Sport V6 (100K miles on Evans), and a 2019 XJL 5.0L. I have almost zero pressure in the cooling system at full operating temps. I can drive the car for an hour and remove the reservoir caps while the car is still running or just shut off. Either way no pressure. And no corrosion because there is no corrosion creating water that has to be controlled with coolant additives that diminish over time. It's amazing stuff that solves coolant failures due to the high coolant pressures in modern cars.

 

I think I am reading this wrong bc it sounds to me like you are saying water can't be boiled 3 times?

 

almost every car ever made with a <100C thermostat can be run zero pressure on 50/50. just leave the cap loose and top up like twice a year

 

You don't know how cars work, do you?

 

if you want to run zero pressure to stop your shitbox from leaking you have two options. straight PG is worse than just running 50/50 close to boiling point

case closed

 

Do you know much about cars and coolant. Case closed.

 

While pure water is the best conductor of heat, it's not appropriate for long term use outside of a racetrack. Coolant contains corrosion prevention additives that pure water does not. This may have contributed to your headgasket failure.

Don't bother with waterless coolant. It's more expensive than 50/50 diluted coolant and performs significantly worse. It may be marginal for a daily driver but not what you want for a high horsepower application.

This is sarcasm, right?

 

man I’m messing with that other guy it’s a joke. Of course I use coolant. He thought he was giving me valuable advice about not overheating my
engine which was just common sense stuff

kinda along the lines of using blinker fluid get it

 

Sorry about that, I didn't catch that.
My light bulb didn't blink on.

 

twice distilled water sounds legit though right ? surely it works in place of actual coolant ??