I want to budget for keeping my XJ 5.0 SC going until at least 100k miles. I can do some work myself, but need some advice.

In terms of parts, which are likely to fail or need replacing on the way to 100k miles? (excluding normal wear and tear stuff like brakes etc). I've already changed the water pump and plastic cooling pipes under the SC.

Many thanks

 

How close are you too that 100k miles?
Our 2012 5.0 NA XJ has been fine.
I replaced the cooling system (all except radiator and oil cooler) in January of 2023 (153k miles) preventively, not due to a failure.
I did find that the rear cross-over a.k.a. heater manifold pipe looked the most worn and would probably have been the first to fail had I never replaced it.
This is considering that I had the coolant flushed & filled in July 2020 with 135k miles. IIRC I had the coolant flushed & filled soon after 100k miles in 2015 or 2016 too.
So the coolant has been kept healthy.
As far as timing chain tensioners, I haven't replaced them yet, and it's currently at a little over 165k miles.
It has no indication of a tensioner problem, but I do want to replace them by the end of the year preventatively, and I need to replace the AC compressor (& condenser) when I do, which is beginning to fail.
This is considering that the oil has been changed generally between 5k & 7.5k miles, never the prescribed 15k miles.
This is also considering that when I changed the timing chain tensioners/rails on my 2012 Range Rover with the same engine (at about 152k miles) preventatively, although there was the wear between the tensioners & rails, there were no problems, noises, and no reason to believe it would fail any time soon. And the Range Rover was also kept to a 5k/7.5k oil change regimen.

So if you have no indications of failure, 100k miles shouldn't present a ticking time bomb under the hood, but the engine cooling system is the best use of resources to refresh the weakest point that could potentially fail unexpectedly and catastrophically/.
Then there are suspension components which are normal wear & tear items, and that would be most of the suspension control arms, shocks, stabilizer links & bushings...
And the transmission may appreciate a flush & fill with a filter change.

 

Watch these videos and bullet proof your vehicle, no break downs


Don't skip through the videos, you will miss some important info, get a cup of tea and some rich tea biscuits and watch

 

Don't forget your accessory belt, supercharger belt and the associated tensioners. The bearings in these start to perish around 100K miles, and it's easiest and best to replace them all at once. Check your parts cross reference catalog for savings on white box parts. Myself and a few others have created threads with part equivalence on a few of these tensioner and idler pulley part numbers.

 

Sounds like your on top of it with the water pump and cooling hose replacements. Just keep on checking and changing fluids as needed. Most of the disasters come from people who refuse to check fluid levels and refuse to DIY the car. It's really up to you! Please, please don't drive for years with check engine lights on either. Another very common error people make.

One main rule is stop driving if the engine gets hot. Can't tell you how many destroy the car by driving slowly to the next exit or it was only a couple of miles to home. NO! stop immediately!! Get the car towed.
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On front suspension, the low front suspension arm, so called "banana arm" inner bushes can go soft as low as 50k Miles. OEM manufacturer Lemförder have been improved the desing a bit and new ones last better. Cheap part, easy to change as complete arm.

 

Thanks everyone, Car has done 70k and I want to get it to at least 100k and have an idea what things I might need over the next few years. Do Lemforder do an entire lower banana arm, or do I need a press to put new bushes in?
Also, my local JLR dealer now refuses to give out part numbers. Is there another good source of part numbers out there?

 

I hate when car companies gate keep this kind of stuff. Therefore, I don't buy OEM parts from them.

Harper Jaguar and other dealerships have fairly decent part diagrams if you put in your year/model/trim details and have your VIN ready as many updates and supercessions were made throughout the range.

Also look into JPART here and on other forums: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...l-jepc-255587/

 

Yes, complete arm.
Not sure in your area, but at least in EU there are multible web stores for car parts where you enter your reg nr or car model and they offer all parts they have, with OE numbers visible in most cases. (MisterAuto, Skruvat, Autodoc, Biltema, Trodo, Motonet, Avaldi, Aeromotor, Autoparts24... just few noted)

X351 "banana arm" OEM nrs:AW933C256AD, AW93-3C256-AE, AW933C256AF, C2D49933, C2D6343.
Same arm for both sides.

 

cbarr your in luck!
I just re-uploaded the V18 JEPC that you will use with JPART.
JEPC Download Thread
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Vasara & Clubairth1, I appreciate your inputs on the forum regarding the "banana arm". I am in the process of having them replaced. At 47K miles, I have one with premature bushing wear owing to waiting too long to have a warped rotor replaced. I was waiting until I needed to have my brake pads replaced before getting new rotors. That was a mistake driving so long with a warped rotor. The constant vibration overly stressed the bushings in that lower front arm every time the brakes were applied. The symptom, as Vasara mentioned in another thread, was a steering wheel vibration upon applying the brakes. This occurred after my mechanic had already replaced rotors & pads and meticulously checked runout of rotor and hub. Incidentally, don't trust a new rotor to be true. One of the new rotors exceeded runout spec right out of the box.

 

At least in EU area the suspicious cheap prices for quality brand rotors means for sure its counterfeight product. Manufacturers like Ferodo, Brembo, etc have an quide on their web pages how to verify part/box. Even big retaillers have been found selling counterfeight without themself even notised.
Disks are non-tech parts and very easy to made visually near the same as original, but its not easy to made them last thousans of heatcycles with staying on shape.
Runout from the box is for sure accepted for a return.

 

Many thanks. Downloaded okay but having trouble unzipping the .RAR file. It takes about 2 hours to get to 5% then crashes. Could the file be corrupted? I've tried a second download of the .RAR with the same result.

 

Yes a slow download. I am re-downloading it now and will see how the RAR archive is working.
Downloaded and expanded fine for me. After expansion it shows 2.15 GB folder size.

Here is the listing of files I get after expansion.




Sorry I can't find any problems?
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Worked for me too.
What software you are using for extract? Try 7-Zip or WinRAR.

 

Thanks everyone. I used WinZip and it just kept stalling. Will try one of the other unzippers.

 

Also check that you have enough free space on the drive you are going to extract it. (Well, WinZip should tell you if you didi not... but...)

 

Got JPEC finally unpacked and downloaded. Thanks for the tips. One question though, when on JPART, I'm not sure which version of XJ I need to select for my 2018 model year version?

 

I answered you on the other thread but for others.
You want the XJ Range from V00001 under the "model" tab at the top. Confusing as several XJ's are listed by serial numbers and not years.

Glad to hear you got a working copy.
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Many thanks!