2010 XJ, 5.0 NA. Whilst driving all sorts of error codes came up ranging from ABS, traction control, emergency brake, EBD and even EMS, etc. scanned with an OBD scanner and the fault seems to be with the rear right wheel sensor.

I tried replacing it with a new one - but as soon as I drove the car off the driveway the lights started coming on (albeit a few less than before but still ABS, traction control, emergency stop, etc.). Scanned the car and the rear right wheel sensor is still showing as a fault.

I’m in the process of swapping the rear left and rear right wheel sensors to ascertain if it is actually the wheel sensor or something else.

However I’ve noticed that on the left side where the wheel sensor electrical connector connects there is only one port but on the right side there are two. They also seem to be connected to one another with two wires - but the one that’s not the wheel sensor connector seems to not be connected to anything (has its wire cut off). Pictures below to help illustrate.


Left side - only has the one electrical connector for the wheel sensor

Right side, there’s the connector for the wheel sensor in the back (empty as I’ve taken out the sensor to swap). And then another connector infront of it and they’re both connected?

The one at the front has its wire cut like this


Any wisdom of what the other connector is and/or what the problem could be are very welcome! Thank you in advance

 

I just had a similar problem. You may want to look at your wheel bearing and see if you have excessive play there. What happened to me is I hit a bump when I knew I had a wheel bearing needing replaced in the near future and the wheel flexed enough that the sensor caught on the reluctance ring and it grounded out most likely. This caused the instrument cluster to light up like a christmas tree. Spotting the problem was easy as you could see the rub marks on the speed sensor in question.

 

Ah thank you!! I think it’s the same for me - I did (sadly) curb that side and after swapping round the sensors the right is still showing up as bad

Time to YouTube how to change a wheel bearing…

 

It is not hard as long as you can get the hub assembly (part that attaches the tire to the half axle) off. In my case, that was seized on pretty good and I had to pretty much replace the whole spindle assembly. I applied heat and beat the ever living @#$% out of the half axle and it would not budge. So, if someone knows a trick, post it here. Maybe pulling the whole assembly and then using a press to push individual pieces apart may be what is needed. I didn't have the time nor the tools to get to that stage. Wish you luck.

 

Actually read the codes your car has. Check the manual for the exact subcode of the faults. It will make your job much easier.

 

Update:

- I took it to an independent Jaguar specialist, and explained the issue, suggesting the wheel bearing needs replacing. He told me the wheel bearing was fine and that it might be an electrical issue so I should take it to Jaguar themselves

- I took it to Jaguar only to be charged £288 for diagnosis and to be told that the wheel bearing needs replacing, which they’ll charge £1400+ for

Have got the car back now, ordered the wheel hub assembly and will try to replace myself next week when it arrives

In their diagnosis report they also pointed out a bunch of control arms and other bits - which I’ll be leaving for a future project if I am ever so inclined…

 

Next update..any advice or tips welcome on this nut…

Have got stuck in but any advice on how to take this bolt off from the control arm? The bolt has a line cut by someone who was here previously as seen in the picture below. The bushing is also in horrible state but I’m going to choose to ignore that for now.

the bottom is an 8mm and I managed to put on a ratchet to stop it spinning whilst I was getting the nut off but I’ve run out of room when using the attachment on the ratchet and if I twist the nut the whole thing spins. Really hope that’s coherent enough to understand… have also tried holding it with pliers and a spanner to no avail.

 

Maybe take a look at what I just did when I replaced those control arm boots on the front.

I think the 2nd pic may help make it clear what to do to prevent the spinning and allow the nut to be removed completely.

If you have it loose you should reconsider replacing the boots while you are there. No time like the present - especially when the hard part is done already.

 

Thank you! Also a very interesting thread which I’ll be reading more of in the future!

I don’t think my one has the hole at the bottom for the 5mm allen key? It’s the rear driver side if that makes any difference vs the front. But I’ll check again tomorrow morning and see if I can fit an allen key in the bottom.. the bottom part of it just seems like you put a socket into it

I’m trying to get the car sorted so it can pass its MOT (annual roadworthy test in the UK) which is due Wednesday so sadly will leave the boot for now otherwise would have to wait for the delivery time etc. and wouldn’t be able to use the car until then. That being said… I might order them anyway and if I get delayed and forced to have the extra time then will try to swap them in..

 

Bottom of the bolt doesn’t have an opening for an allen key, it’s just an 8mm. I bought a set of vice grips to try grip it whilst using a 18mm spanner on the nut but still can’t stop the whole bolt spinning… wondering how easy it would be to find a replacement bolt and just cut the damn thing..


Bottom of the bolt

 

This is a situation where an impact wrench is invaluable, it would probably zip the nut right off.

 

I have this (relatively cheap) one but it’s been no use, also spins the whole thing. Do you think a better quality one would be any different? Pretty much happy to buy anything at this stage to get this nut off… realistically speaking could I buy an angle grinder and cut it off and then replace it?

 

At this point the impact may not help then, it could all be too loose. Silly question, but have you tired tightening the nut back on and then impacting it off? Some times the momentum of a head start can help.
You can certainly cut it off, the ball joint definitely needs replaced either way. If you are stuck and have to get by with the bad ball joint you can attempt to crack the nut: cut the nut without hitting the threads and then crack it with a chisel.

 

Good question tbh because I hadn’t - just tried it now - unfortunately it now spins the whole bolt no matter whether I try to tighten or loosen…

Will look at ordering a dremel with some metal cutting disks I think..

 

Occurred to me that even if I cut the nut off, I’m going to have the same issue when trying to tighten the new nut on.. so maybe cutting it off isn’t the best option?

Still struggling, trying to push the ball joint down in place with a breaker bar, put on a vice grip at the bottom to try hold the bolt slightly and then twisting the spanner on the nut - no success. Have ordered a c clamp which is arriving today and will try to clamp the ball joint down - according to some YouTube videos that could possibly help..

The rubber boots arrived so IF I do get this nut off ever I’ll replace the rubber boot. For the grease - can I pretty much use any rubber grease? I have the below tub.

 

Is it possible to use a dremel to cut a slot into the end of the bolt that could be used to insert a screwdriver or something to prevent it from turning?

 

There’s a notch in the end from where I think someone previously had tried that - I tried using the same notch but still didn’t work.. although

ITS OUT! Blow torched the **** out of the nut - whilst being careful to not get anything else and it allowed it to spin out.

Now to put the rubber boot and new hub assembly together.

any tips are very much welcome, doing this for the first time (if that wasn’t apparent already!) and so torquing it under some sort of pressure or applying lube or whatever details that I would miss would be very much appreciated if someone knows them

 

Thought I’d close the loop here

- managed to put everything back together
- cleared the codes and drove it around
- engine management light, traction control, ABS, etc etc. all stayed off
- car passes the MOT ✅

Thank you to everyone who gave advice!