Anyone got any tips on detaching the black electrical connector nearest wheel well? When squeezing the two tabs on either side on mine I can't pull up to release, it feels stuck, but when I let go I hear the tabs click back into place. I've cleaned the connector with air etc, don't want to yank it too hard in case I break something and cause lots of fresh problems....

 

Your left hand steering model the right wheel well ? Will look in morning

Without looking at it , it may be a through wall gromet as they don't want wire connections on the 4 wheels sensors , that would be verified in the wiring guide but it is not 100 % correct

But the rear wheel sensors do have a pigtail connector under the rear seat pan and the front wheel sensors should have a like sensor pigtail wire

There is something fwd of the front right wheel well to do with 1 / 2 of the wire loom ( begainning at the RS3 true connector down in the very lower corner of the cabin pass through true connector RS3 ) routing over the wheel arch on the inside ( mostly to do with external lights and washer pumps and washer fluid level ) the rest of the 1 / 2 split has a through wall gromet on the rear cross firewall to go over fuel rail ( engine regulation wires )

 

Took a quick look without a flashlight , where in relationship to the right front solid brake fluid line diving down through the metal at the top of the engine interior wheel arch ?

Gotta polish up the flashlight plastic lens as useless , got some plastic headlight polish somewhere

 

Flashlight now

About 1 inch aft of the brake line diving down through , there is a 2 wire in round sleeve going down through with a round black rubber plain no clip through gromet ( this should be wheel speed sensor pigtail with no connections in bad exposed by wheel hub splashy worst environment )

This should be 2 wires color Black / Orange and Black / Yellow ( speed sensor ) as there is a connector 1 foot above wheel well arch top skin ( but would have to look at wires more closely )

The sensor pigtail wires under the round sleeve could be any color as Jaguar would not have any control over that from sensor manufacturer ( ? )

My Vin is 755xxx

 

Thanks for your input Parker, there's an x300 in the wrecking yard near me again so I'm going to go and get the abs module off it. That will let me see how to disconnect...

 

Be aware that there are TWO different modules!!!
TRACTION CONTROL and EXCEPT TRACTION CONTROL.
They are different.

 

G'day Oliver,

Are you talking about the large connector on the side of the ABS unit or the connector on the wheel speed sensor lead or is it the black two wire connector which comes from the ABS pump motor?

The one on the ABS unit has a bolt through the middle of it which has to be undone as you remove the multi plug.

The wheel speed sensor connector probably needs a little more persuasion as does the pump motor connector.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

the black plastic two wire electrical connector, really hard ot get my hand down between the body and the abs, wrecking yard a good way to explore and practice!

 

G'day Oliver,

Mine of course is easy to get at because it's on the other side of the car, behind the coolant tank. I just went down and tried it on my car and after I squeezed the clips the plug came off with a little steady wiggling. I agree the practising on a junkyard car is the way to go and you never know what other interesting bits you might find while you're there.

The plug you want to release is the power to the pump motor and a common source of ABS failure is the soldered joints in the socket decaying with age and causing an open circuit.

My car gives a reassuring chirp as the pump motor self tests on every initial drive off at about 20kph.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Pretty sure the soldered joint on my wagon is failing, I sometimes get the abs and traction control ce light at 5mph, I'll prob grab a spare abs pump motor and the power circuit board below it at the yard assuming it looks good. Thx Jeff

 

Got the module circuit board off at PickNPull and now understand how to disconnect everything. I didn't take the pump as the prices are going through the roof: $120+ for the module and circuit board, no idea if the pump actually works. $45 for the black plastic encased circuit board only.
I'll resolder the connections and see if it works on my car....good practice before I do the one that's in the car now....

 

For the large points that desolder with the codes 1695 or abouts you have that covered but on a very small solder you may want to consider a liquid solder ( E - bay and my in town electronics supply store has some if you contact me )

The liquid solder wicks very well in small work targets ( Youtube vids ) with a heat gun without a solder tip effecting other points

Keep in mind the codes , if present , may not unlatch / go away until 12.5 mph and may not relatch if a current / new fault until 3 drive cycles

U bend in the brake bleeder hose method , and there is the X300 specific procedure in the 521 page large Jaguar X300 Vehicle Service Manual I posted in this link

See post # 4

Repair Manual - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Someone maybe 6 to 9 months ago had a thread on his / her doing the bleed and it's issues as the ABS module will take a few whole bleed do a gain's and some amount of fluid

While you have the ABS large connector off you may play with the wheel sensor sockets I colored as pairs in this pic , wheel sensor basic meter reading 1300 ohms , and will generate about 1 volt AC in the correct car fwd spin ( by hand ) direction for each wheel ( on jack )

There is a wheel sensors group part # change during X300 production and the sensors are raised part number labeled ( and not cheap )

 

You can easily check the pump motor from outside. Just give 12V to the motor connector. Red +, Black -. If it purrs silently then it works and you have either weak solder on module board or what i had on mine - badly set motor connector in its place on the module. Before you get into module lower removal check if the motor connector is set up fully. It's rather weak construction with two round terminals covered with rubber sleeves and both inserted in plastic housing where they locked weak due to rubber degradation so i had to push each terminal separately with small screwdriver and then fill the outside cavities with liquid electric tape. Once i've set the connector fully the intermittent C1095 went away.
P.S. when i was lurking around the module i've seen with the mirror it was already been cut open to probably fix the solder issue and most likely it was the cause of the bad motor connector setup. Anyway i plan to remove it to check how good they reinstalled the cut part and use the plastic welder to proper seal.