Oh so frustrating. I am starting a new thread, the previous "towed home" was diagnosed and repaired, replaced two injectors. The reason I bring up the old, there was one symptom that remains. Once I got her back to the house and off the tow, I did try to start it, thinking I might move to the garage. During a third cycle of cranking it abruptly stopped before the cycle completed. My first thought was that it had seized, fortunately it had not. It's now back together but still will not crank. Fresh battery. tested Starter and solenoid. checked fuses and relays, still know cranky. I have an older Autel MaxiDAS DS708 ADS I used to read codes, but it is not much of a programmer. Is there something better that is more Jag specific? Also here are some read outs pulled from the scanner;





Sorry for the file size. can anyone think for me? I am a little spent after replacing all the coolant pipes and injectors to have to encounter this.

 

From the screens that you posted, it seems like the ECM is not seeing your foot on the brake pedal to start the car. I would do a quick check to make sure that your brake lights are still working. Then go from there.

 

Listen to Thermo as sometimes it is a simple repair!
Post back with the results. Pushing harder on the brake pedal when attempting to start the car is another suggestion.
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Hey thanks Guys. So yes I checked for brake lights, affirmative. My diagnostic tool says I'm getting 13bars of pressure on brake petal, that suggest the car is seeing the petal is being depressed. Being more thorough, I did disconnect the battery and jumped the starter, it rotated the engine freely. Let me ask, is this a clue? The message indicator is on until I hit the brake petal. also get a warning that the parking brake needs calibrating. I'm just trying to think like a car computer. Which component senses the petal being depressed during start up? I can put the power into convenience mode, so the start/stop is working AFA that goes. I found a start sequence description, but not sure if it's X351 specific. It gets into CAN and interface between modules and my scanner dose not go that deep. At this point I might invest in a JLR SSD system, where can it be found? Also there is mention of a MEGA fuse at the positive battery terminal, I don't see one. could it be hidden somewhere else?
I ran a DTC one more time. I get a U2101-00 Control module config incompatible. that is I believe referencing the VIM. not sure if it means my reader is incompatible or the module is. Again thanks for your thoughts.

 

Hello Gents and ladies too, Taking advice from any and all sources. I'm back to report and ask hopping someone will keep me from taking this beast to the dealer. First I need to report that I purchases a mongoose clone and with it came a copy of JLR SDD v.165. So I now am able to address the car w/ the OEM software. Still dose not make me a pro. as some of you are. Here is what I have to report, I replaced two injectors after they stuck open, then realizing that the car had not been taken care of as well as I would have if it was mine for its 70K mile life. I put the cooling kit from Euro Amp on and got it back together. Runs well, the problem is. It will not Crank. I am able to Start the car by jumping the starter directly. but that is the only way. I had mentioned SDD, I don't own a lap top so I broke down what I refer to as my HTPC and drug it out to the car and used that to download and update the modules. Not sure if I did any good or made things worse. Bit more complicated than just checking for codes. I thought it was the starter so I had them open it up and clean it, replaced the solenoid and made it look like new. But still no Cranky.
I used my standby reader to pull some codes. All three seat mods showed faults but I wouldn't think they would keep it from Cranking. Here are a few that might. I have one Key. KVM gave a B10A9-00. I'm I going to need two Keys going forward? Also I get a B1B01-87 from the BCM. Something tell me this is an anti theft issues and it is a little more than replacing parts. I would very much like to keep from taking it in, but I'll need some advice. here a few screen shots from my reader.

Starting to run a test.

Could this mean its the relay? I will retest it.

Dose this make sense based on the fact that I can Start the car by jumping the starter?




Is something broke? or am I to illiterate Thank you for having a look and any comments would be apricated.

 

What voltages are your BCM showing for Start switch wires 1 and 2, resting and when trying to start? Also, do you hear your fuel pump priming the system when you attempt to start the car?

 

Just to close out and to say thanks for all those who tiped in. I had the car towed to a dealer. Awaiting the response. Thinking the SDD will be able to sort it. I also have a bit of a warranty given by the lot that sold.the car. Warranty fits the window when it started acting up. Going to pursue that avenue to see where it leads.

 

Did you try emergency start up by put the key fob underneath the trunck open botton?

 

As a matter of fact, yes I did.

 

So here's the verdict. and I know some of you might be smirking. The dealer said before any diagnostic work can be carried out, He would need to replace the Maga Fuse and Battery for a sum total of $2000.00. And again that's just to attempt a diagnosis. I may be Tooo stubborn but I refuse to pay $500 to have a wrench put a $10 fuse in a car. Also dealer is refusing to put a fuse in the car for price quoted and is demanding the cost for diagnosis.

 

I know I tested continuity on the Maga fuse. Could it be possible that continuity is not a pure test for amperage? Also a clue, If I jumped from the battery directly to the starter, it will start using the start- stop button. I may have made an error by starting a new thread, thinking the no crank was a separate issues. Problem started when I lost not one but two injectors. One on each rail. Proven by a scoop, fuel on #2and #7 pistons. So it would make sense that if it hydro locked it would have blown the Maga during a start cycle. Also what kept throwing me was a U2300-64, I was getting a non communication error from the BCM. Dose the power coming from the Mega feed the central Box.

 

Brian, to check the megafuse, put a multimeter across the megafuse (from one post to the other). With power applied, you should see 0 VDC (set the multimeter to the 2 VDC scale). In reality, it should be reading 0.000 VDC, but you may see 0.001 or maybe as high as 0.005 VDC. Now, if you attempt to start the car, what does the multimeter change to? If it goes to anything above 0.5 VDC, the megafuse is bad. To help understand why this is, a basic law in electrical circuits is ohm's law (current = voltage / resistance). You can rearrange the equation to be voltage = current x resistance. In your case, what you may be seeing is that your multimeter is saying you have a very low resistance (most people see 0.5 ohms and go "oh, that is my lead resistance"). But, now, lets assume even 0.1 ohms of that reading is really the resistance in the megafuse (0.1 ohms is normally beyond the accuracy of most multimeters that people use). So, when you go to start your car, the starter is going to attempt to pull about 100 amps. So, 0.1 ohm x 100 amps = 10 volts. That would pretty much make the car drop to its knees and not do anything. With this, hopefully you can see how even a very small resistance can be detrimental to getting the car to start, yet it could allow many other things to work (like opening up the doors, that would only pull about 10 amps and that would only be a 1 volt drop, allowing most stuff to function normally).

 

on the diagram ,the mega fuse underneath the carpet just feed the engine juction box only . there are a lot of big fuses coverd by a plastic box in the trunck called battery fuse box .mounted on the back side of the trunck . Did you check that? four colored wire feed the center junction box, then black thick wires feed rear junction box ,engine junction box and the starter and genarator.

 

A safety of some sort was my first thought as well. Simle initial check on the brake is to simply check to see if the brake lights come on when the pedal is pressed. Neutral safety can also be an issue for any car, could be here as well, especially after it was towed. I had an issue with mine associated with this, giving me a "gearbox error" because the neutral pull strap got hung up in the access. Everything worked but when it's on a car you just purchased it's concerning. I'm curious if your issue is from a similar source. I'm also curious if the ignition comes on, but simply doesn't start, brake or no brake press. If it acts the same both ways the brake may be the issue.

 

Well a hardy thanks to all, and to you Chris especially. She is back on the road. And a lesson learned. I would as a practice check low amp fusses with a continuity meter. That doesn't work so well with a 400 amp mega fuse. It has been the fuse from the get go. Just to clarify. I hydro Locked two cylinders. I tried to start the engine A couple of times, in the middle of the third crank cycle it stopped. I believe that's when the fuse blew. So until we meet again Thank you all Oh yeah I kinda push on the dealer in a earlier post. I need to come clean. They waved any diagnostic fees. Even after I told him to have the wrench put in a new maga fuse for $500. They new I was a half **** mechanic and knew what things should cost so they told me what was wrong and didn't Charge me foe the info.

 

I am glad the mega fuse was there to protect your engine from cranking with fluid in the cylinders.

 

Absolutely. In the original "Towed Home" post, I reported draining about 16qts out of the sump. half of that was Petrel. Not a very good lubricant. So yes that could have been catastrophic had it kept Cranking. Very sad though, not a single New model Jag on the showroom floor while I was awaiting a tow.
Again Many Thanks