My Daimler Double Six has just clocked over 100,000 kms, and I’m working out how much of the major service I should do myself, and how much I should leave to a pro, so keen to get some thoughts on the following:

1) Any hints/tips or gotcha’s that might help me out?
2) Anything you wouldn’t recommend a typical handy person with a tool set di themselves?
3) Is there anything that’s listed in the service schedule that you typically skip?
4) There’s no mention of changing the diff oil in the service schedule, worth doing anyway?

In general, would love to hear your thoughts/experiences servicing your x305’s.

 

"Major service" is a bit vague to me. What does it include?

And, yes, the diff oil should be changed. Hopefully it has already be done at least once before in the last 29 years !

Cheers
DD

 

There is little or nothing to leave to a professional. This can be all DIY stuff.

I’d change all fluids because they are, by this time, of unknown vintage. All means fluids not often done including brake fluid, engine coolant, differential… everything.

If you are uncomfortable with changing brake fluid by bleeding calipers, just suck most of it out of the reservoir, refill, drive for a few weeks, and do it again.

The transmission cannot be fully drained so just drain it as good as you can, don’t change the filter, fill it, drive it. A week later do it again, drain and fill with no filter. The third time drain and change filter. By then the old trapped fluid will be so diluted it doesn’t matter. A professional will have a flush system that will change al the fluid in one go, but they are often wary of flushing older or high mileage vehicles.

Have fun!

 

Thanks for the tips.

I’ve never bled the brakes, so I’ll do as you suggest, sounds easier.

Our of interest, what’s the rationale behind not just changing the transmission filter straight away?

 

It probably doesn’t matter when you change the transmission filter, but I always figured I’d want the cleanest fluid passing through the cleanest filter, rather than replacing it first and running fluid that’s 30% dirty through it. By the third swap the fluid is pretty much all new, so that’s when I’d put in the new filter. I’m sure an argument could be made the other way.

 

New belts, air filters, spark plugs, O2 sensors and fuel filter are some that come to mind as a major service, with all fluids being replaced. Lube the rear axle U-joints! All DIY. Some tasks are tedious, but that is even more motivation not to pay a shop that extra time required.

The cooling system is a priority. It would be prudent to overhaul it. That would include thermostats & gaskets, coolant pipe rail seals (flats plus grommets), all bleed tubing, heater core hoses, bypass hoses, and upper and lower radiator hoses, with an optional coolant pump rebuild while you're there (pump has 2 gaskets). Radiator, heater core and block flush as well. Seems like a lot? It is, but it is all DIY. You might pay a shop to rebuild the pump.

Another priority is the oil cooler lines. They should be removed and the rubber sections replaced by a shop that can do hydraulics. Engine side pipe removal is tricky. Also, the two fuel rail crossover rubber tubes should be replaced.

With this work done, you can move on to other trouble areas as needed. The wheels will not fall off. Although suspension repairs will keep you busy! Shocks replacement is DIY, but removing subframes gets to be a tall order unless you have a lift and muscles.

Perhaps you have done some of this work already?

 

So far, other than basic servicing, all I’ve had to do is replace the airbag control module, starter motor and alternator.

But I’ve now got a fairly good list to get on with, thanks team. I’m also very slowly doing up an XJS, and have probably taken too much on, but I am learning a lot, and enjoying it.

 

As well as all the excellent points previously made on this thread, a close inspection of all suspension rubber bushings and ball joints is advisable. These cars chew up front suspension consumable parts and replacement with quality parts as needed will greatly improve driving pleasure. Rear suspension tends to sag and may need Rear Upper Isolator 'donuts' OE MMD3565AA that fit above the rear shocks (these tend to get crushed and lower ride height and shock efficiency) as well as the various rear bushings.

Take a close look at power steering hoses, particularly if you are dropping the front subframe and can see all of them. (Be aware the engine mounts are unobtanium if you drop subframe, they may fall apart).

95-97 XJ6 XJS 4.0L Transmission Lower Bushing MMC7553AA is an easy replacement

 

Any thoughts on a good diff oil (ideally I’ve that’s available in NZ :-))?

Specification is: GL5 EP90 Shell Spirax Super 90

 

As I understand, the open diffs on our cars are nothing special, just standard Dana/Spicer/Salisbury gearsets. Any 80w90 GL5 gear oil ought to be fine, with a full-synthetic option maybe providing extra placebo effect for a small marginal expense.

The GL5 is the important spec.

 

On Diff fill port , ensure the port screen can breath , this prevents the air above the fluid from pressurizing ( heated by working ) and blowing the oil out the output shaft bearing ( 2 ) seal which eventually dry's the bearings of lubricant and fails

Expensive repair , but can be done by yourself if you have the knack for it

 

Silly question, what’s the port screen?

 

It is the rear top large hex bolt with a large hole drilled through the center filled with breathable screen material

May take some soaking time with a solvent for the screen and maybe the same to remove the fill port / hex bolt so plan up first

Some have drilled a hole in the bottom trunk floor to access otherwise the fill is awkward.