This is my 3rd Jaguar: 04 S-Type R (my favorite) & 2010 XJ
Whats up guys. I had an opportunity to up a 2004 XJR with 58k in July of last year. I LOVED my 04 S-Type R and this was a chance to pickup my dream car. Upon the test drive a Suspension Fault popped up - I knew going into this that the air shocks would/could be problematic so that definitely helped with while negotiating the price. After purchasing I was excited to begin the transformation

1. Air Shocks replaced with Arnott Coil/Spring conversion kit
2. Tesla Style Head Unit

Long story less long, when having the shocks replaced the mechanic mentioned that pretty much the entire suspension would need to be replaced. It was creaky sounding. Picked up the font & rear suspension kit (control arms/tie rod)

Had them installed this weekend. Off the bat, an alignment was desperately needed - mechanic says that was normal
ABS Warning Light + DSC Not Available + Cruise Control Not Available + Traction Control Light Stays On

Mechanic was going to clear the codes but couldn't locate the OBD. Checked all under the drivers side - nothing. I personally spent 45mins trying to locate, nothing.

Before anything....the car ran smooth
Had the alignment yesterday. The car pulls a bit - ok not ideal but I can manage.
Took it on the freeway today and +45 the car begins to sway a bit, almost like a slight drift. Becomes very difficult to keep the car going straight

What do you guys think? I'd love to have a little knowledge on the matter before I bring it up with the mechanic

 

 

Checked There = Negative.
I'll post some pics

 

That's where it is on my '07 XJ8... Wonder if the connector broke loose and is flopping around under the dash trim somewhere?

All of those alerts are related to wheel-speed sensors. Every one of them. Somebody missed a connection or broke one when doing the suspension parts.

(And by the way, the suspension parts are needed because the bushings are not available separately, they come with the control arms.)

 

In the 2004 its really really tucked up and in...I attached pic with my OBD dongle plugged in so its easier to see location.
As for faults, as Wfooshee said, #1 most likely is the speed sensor(s).

Also, check to make sure the Arnott bypass module plugged in and doing it's job preventing false errors from air suspension module

Least likely - the Tesla-style head units use a CAN bus module to provide HVAC control. mine caused an initial fault on install, was a one-time OBD clear and reset - faults never returned.

 

US law dictates that the OBDII connector is to be located within 18" of the steering wheel.
IT IS THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Mechanic is coming by today to check the Speed Sensors

-Arnott Shocks & Tesla screen were installed about 8 months ago
For the Tesla Screen and HVAC Control - interesting. The problem I have (which I've lived with) is the the Heater/AC cannot be turned on/used unless its ON upon starting the car. It cant be turned off unless its OFF upon starting the car. Tried everything to correct it but haven't been successful - like I said, just learned to live with it.

 

Found the OBD port hanging around loose under the dash!
Error Code: C1234
This coincides with the first suspension side he worked on, front right. (Front Left had a stuck lugnut/cap & I didnt have the rear parts - they were coming the following day)

He pulled off the wheel, undid the sensor took a look at it and said it looked fine. I had electrical cleaner and he said it wouldnt be needed
Put it back together - still the same code. Told him you can't clear ABS codes but.........he's taking in on a test drive now

 

The toothed wheel underneath the sensor may need a good cleaning, too. Check the wiring along as much of its length as you can get to. The code means signal missing, which means the module doesn't even see the sensor.

If the sensor is bad, a visual inspection won't tell you anything about that. It might be worth swapping another sensor (the fronts and rears are different, but side to side is the same part) and see if the problem follows the sensor or stays at the corner of the car.

 

hub broken or he didn’t push the sensor in

 

Alright; cleaned the hub (it was pretty bad) installed a new sensor and the ABS/DSC/Cruise Control error messages are gone!
As mentioned EVERY part of the suspension was changed but the car definitely doesn't feel the same. The folks that did the alignment didnt do the greatest job, so I'll be taking it back next week and see if they can properly correct it.
The car just feels like its moving side to side a bit over 45mph

 

Did you get an alignment report? With the behavior described, the values for the toe-in on the front axle should be checked in particular.

Fritz

 

Alright, please don't be offended by the following: you sure your mechanic assembled everything correctly after installing new control arms? It is very, very important to do the final tightening on anything with bushings AFTER the car is on the ground and/or wheels are at normal ride height (i.e.; lifted by wheels, not frame lift). Ask me how I know - Ive done total suspension/control arm bushing and ball joint replacement on all three of my Jaguars (XK, and two XJ). If done wrong, it might settle and over-stress and crack bushing rubber, or, worse, it will push itself out of alignment.

also, on Arnott, same thing - once car is down on ground supported by wheels, loosen and then re-toque the four upper bolts on both front and rear strut(s). I noticed mine having some side-loading till I did this.

 

Here's the alignment

 

Why did you remove air suspension? My buddy just did that and the ride just isnt the same. Hope you get this all cleared up.

 

Can't answer for him, but I can tell you why I removed it on mine.

When I disassembled the compressor for the Bagpipe Andy kit, the dryer was saturated. It was actually a water tank. Huge amount of rust and corrosion in the dryer, and in the vent valve. Knowing that this water had been circulated throughout the system, with no way to remove it, it immediately became apparent that getting it into working order was more cost than the car is worth. There's not even a way to drain water that might be trapped in the reservoir! (Every shop compressor in the Universe has a drain valve on it...) It's simply not worth several thousand dollars every 8 or 10 years, when coilovers are effectively forever. (Yes, conventional shocks wear out, but there's nothing to actually fail and make the car undrivable any more.)