My '05 X350 Super Charged is right at 97K miles right now. In looking at the owner's manual, I see in addition to routine maintenance that the following is recommended:

1. Replace spark plugs (my Jag mechanic checked them at 84K and said they looked okay)
2. Replace Supercharger drive belt
3. Replace sump washer
4. Replace pollen filter (I live in Florida and we have lots of pollen where I live)
5. Apply Jaguar Screen Paste to windshield (I have no idea what this is)
6. I will be replacing the tires with Michelin Pilot Super Sport 19"
7. Replace brake fluid
8. Replace engine coolant at 150K miles

Since this sounds like it will be an expensive bill, I am hoping that some of you might help me to prioritize the recommended maintenance. Are there some items that I could postpone such as the drive belt (# 2) and

The materials required (aside from tires) total up to maybe $100-$200. Not expensive in my book.

I can only recommend you ADD the following if they have not been already addressed;
Auxiliary belt with roller and tensioner.
Supercharger oil change.
Fuel filter
Wiper blades
Tighten two 8mm bolts on trans shifter cable.
Maybe a crankcase vent valve
New battery.
Transmission filter and fluid
Differential flush.
Power steering fluid change.
And last but not least, a complete check of ALL suspension, steering, and brake components. This is upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, ball joints, toe adjusters (rear), U joints, driveshaft,caliper bushings and clips, brake hoses, pads and rotors, and wheel bearings.
Hopefully some of this has been replaced already. Because much of the list is good for about, 8 - 10 years and 100,000 miles.
Get a Mityvac to do your own fluid changes. Find an honest indie for everything you cannot do yourself. And it will be expensive but may keep it on the road longer.

Add a new thermostat to your list, and new cat converters as well.

Some of those items I would be doing anyway such as the oil change. I have new wiper blades and had a new battery put in about 6 months ago. Due to my age, I won't be doing any of the maintenance myself. While some of the parts may not be too expensive, the labor costs will start adding up.

Nowadays brake fluid can be checked for water content. If it is within limits it doesn't need changing. The only reason in the past for replacing brake fluid was there were no clever gadgets to tell you the water content; now there are !! So if the fluid water content is within limits you can put this off.

Coolant is 150k miles so you're not there yet.

Pollen filter is a 5 minute job, the filter costs little

The screen paste is probably to polish it up a bit and get the ingrained grime off. A DIY job IMHO

Spark plugs can wait a bit only if the engine is running well. Anyway this shouldn't be a costly job.

SC drive belt is probably needed as preventative maintenance. Knowing modern cars this will be fairly costly.

Panelhead's list is all good stuff but the items may have already been done, if not some can wait, but not forever. It's always best to keep to factory recommendations, but those are predicated on the useage of the car when fairly new and lots of miles being run. Later on, the annual mileages reduce so some items can carry on longer.
My experience is that suspension joints require replacement much earlier than 100k miles !! These are my major items in the Jaguar "unfair wear and tear " list !

I took my car in to a certified Jag mechanic (who I had used before on previous Jags) for the 100K service, and here is what he did for a total cost of $870 plus tax.

. New NGK iridium spark plugs
. Cabin and air filter
. Supercharger belt and second belt

I did not get the oil changed or new wiper blades because both had been changed within last 30 days. I also had new rear brakes put on a month ago by a different mechanic. I recently started using another mechanic who had been recommended to me simply because he was more convenient. I wish now that I had gone to my old Jag mechanic in the first place because the "new" mechanic put in Brembo brakes which I just learned here have a tendency to get warped rotors. I should have gotten Akebono brakes instead. Also, the other mechanic told me I need to replace the front control arm at a cost of $1,400. As it turns out, the rotors on the front brakes are warped which is what is causing an occasional shaking of the steering wheel when I brake. I'll get those fixed at the next oil change. Lesson learned is to stay with someone you know and trust even if they are a little bit out of the way.

What did surprise me was that he did not recommend replacing any of the hoses. I had noticed that the hose coming from the top of the radiator was soft, but he said it was okay. I checked in the maintenance manual and I couldn't find any recommended mileage for replacing hoses.

That's a lot of $$$ for what you had done. I would find a new mechanic or DIY...

The above is an extensive but necessary list.

The big ones from the above list to incorporate is the trans filter/fluid and sleeve, supercharger oil change and the fuel filter.

The other items are DIY... easy maintenance items....

Graham, re your brakes
Can I suggest you contact your previous mechanic ( presumably a business ) re warranty?
The reason - I had my front brake pads and discs changed out around 4 months and 7k miles ago, I too have had a bad shudder under braking, diagnosed as warped discs.
The original tech has just last week replaced these and fitted free of charge under warranty as there was a 25 months or 25k miles warranty with them.......worth asking the question??


Good luck

Sadly, I have never been mechanically inclined and so DIY is out of the question except for really, really easy stuff. I guess I could have changed the air and cabin filters myself and saved $50 in labor. I agree that it was still expensive, but he is the only Jag mechanic in Jacksonville, FL other that the dealership and they would have been a lot more. I did get a third quote from another company (sight unseen of the car) and their estimate for the same work was $640. My dilemma again is that they service all kinds of vehicles. They assured me that they have mechanics that they can bring in from another store who are familiar with "European" cars. This did not give me the warm and fuzzies.

That's a good thought about checking the warranty on the Brembo brake pads.

As a bit of a follow up question, how can I tell if any of the hoses need replacing? I have always understood that if they are very soft and pliable that could mean they should be replaced. My top radiator hose is in that condition, but the Jag mechanic told me it was okay. I have had the car for about 10 months, and it did not come with a service record, and so I don't know when the last was that they were replaced.

This is what I have done in the last 3,000 miles (has 103,000 now):

Spark plugs changed.
Supercharger oil changed.
Complete transmission fluid change with Lifeguard 6 (10+ qrts) + sleeve and pan.
Oil/filter changed.
All headlite, spotlite bulbs upgraded.
Air filter changed.
All lug nuts changed to solid with no caps.

Planned work:
Rear differential oil change in 2 weeks.
Hose replacement including "valley hose" plus coolant change. Coming Winter.
When new brakes required will change to slotted rotors.

The supercharger belt looks in great condition. I have bought a new one and will likely change it when I do the coolant and hoses.

For the effort of removing the plugs I'd change them! (And on my car I did.)

It's hardly an excessive schedule for a 100K mile car of its age.

I agree with Panelhead. Remember it is not essential to do them all the same day, or even the same month, so you can spread the cost.


A little thing I would add, buy yourself a bag of M6 hex-headed stainless screws and washers, and change all the ones holding the undertray, also spire nuts (chimney nuts) and the two rear central brackets, which will be rusty if not broken or missing. There are a couple of rubber expanding nuts at the sides. You can use the rest of the stainless screws to replace all the others under the bonnet, as their plating is probably eroded and rusty by now, and any others that you see while tinkering. Buy a tube of calcium grease. Copper is not good for aluminium.


Start thinking about having your wheels refinished.


It is a hundred times better to change belts and hoses a bit too early rather than a bit too late.


The suspension bushes have a life of about 60k miles, as does the transmission fluid and supercharger lube. Sadly you may not know when, or if, they have been changed before.

I will recomend to check on all your water hoses and replace them if more than 10 years already.