As the title said, I am jumping head first into unknown territory - I have purchased 2 XKR rear Sepang rims, taken them apart, and now intend to put them back together with the 10" barrel on the X350 5x108 face. Will be using 20mm H&R spacers, so hopefully they will fit, and even allow me to keep the whole inside plastic wheel cover! Now I am stuck getting a broken bolt out, it's too small for a machinist to drill it out, but I'll eventually figure something out - ideas welcome.


And so it begins...



All screws out, really almost no effort at all, M8 ("twin-screw" hex), NOT M7 like the bolts are mentioned everywhere online


I couldn't for the life of me get the face split from the barrel, so I ended up taking them to a tire shop near work. Also took the trim ring off.


...and here are the split rim faces



Now I almost ruined one thread by torquing to 18lbft, but perhaps it was already in a bad shape, so please, if anybody knows:

What exactly is the torque of the Sepang BBS bolts? 18 lbft? 11? Something else? It is useful to mentionthat I am using blue loctite.

I bought the XKR Rims from Sam Callegari, who in turn bought my ported supercharger for his gorgeous X356 XJR (the one with the unobtanium functional side vents). Thanks a bunch Sam!

 

Found this thread, relating to similar BBS wheels, where the torque used was 11 lb/ft (see post number 18):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-wheels-32389/

Maybe useful also, the attached tech tips.IMHO, be careful not to exceed the recommended torque value, Aluminium alloy is a rather soft metal...

 

Finally done! I was dumb, and stripped some bolts when overtightening, then did a time-sert repair, then got it all together again. Wheels are done!
I used a hub-centric 20mm spacer for the extra inch of width (25.4mm), so compared to the 20 x 9 Sepang, it sticks out 20mm on the outside, and it goes into the wheel well 5.4mm - it is actually perfect, I can confirm it does not rub ANYWHERE on the plastic wheel well.
I also had to cut about 6-7mm off the wheel hub studs, but it's ok as I removed only the non-threaded part of the studs - OK, maybe 1-2mm into the threads, but I can confirm it is cafe. The ends of the studs portrude a bit off the plane of the installed spacer, but it's ok, as the Sepangs have little stud reliefs in them which makes it all come together nicely, and safely.

So here are the pics! Sorry for the dirty car, the transmission oficially died, I am waiting on the built one from Australia to arrive.

 

car grip car go fast car no stop 😫

 

its that 285 or 295/30 tires?

 

I would never install anything on my car which would make it go slower!

Now main reason is that I wish to keep the brakes is I wish to be able to run the original 18 wheels. And anyway, the car stopps quite good, at least when compared to my '68 Charger R/T - car go fast, car no stop, car no grip, car no turn

 

285/35. Tire height matters more to longitudinal acceleration than tire width. But a 295/30 would fit the 10 inch rims.

 

I'm a fan of more tire =less Sepang bending. I had a larger 285/40/20 tires on my factory sized Sepang and it just rubbed a bit on the inner plastic great to know a 10 inch bare low with the 285/35 ( more reasonable) works with small spacers. Thanks