Hello everyone, this is Larry in Columbus, Ohio here. Well still trying to track down this issue and getting kinda frustrated at this point so I'm asking for help at this juncture lol. So far I have eliminated bad battery by buying a new one. I have eliminated the inertia switch. I've done a hard reset. Alternator is good. Checked fuses and relays. I'm down to either the ignition switch, which I believe isn't the problem as the dash warning lights will go from normal to batshit crazy and gauges quit, while the car is running, something between the ECM and the instrument cluster, bad solder or loose wire on the instrument cluster. I've already solved various problems up 'til now but this one has me stumped and frustrated but quitting isn't an option. Can anyone give me some advice at this point? Thanks, Larry. p.s. Where you at Big K? lol p.p.s. By the way, the error code on my scanner is the p1638 trouble code...

 

Same code.
Search for similar issues and solutions?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-start-277836/

 

Hi, Larry! listen to @motorcarman !
I do not have experience with issues related to battery and grounds.
As you already know battery is one culprit for Christmas tree lights and 'War and Piece' on message center!
This will take a very methodical approach that may take a long time.
Take a chill pill daily, burn/cancel prescription for Phackitall and quietly carry on!
(hope moderators will forgive my indiscretion).
Consider ground attachment points.
CAN bus termination resistor can be troubleshoot by disconnecting next in line device and terminating differential line for the bus appropriatly.
You will succeed!
Part of the problem with these cars is that all auto shops, even independent once, cannot afford to spend days searching for a root cause and many owners can't afford to pay shop for that search!
On other hand, people like you, and many folks on this forum, including myself, that have at least rudimentary skills and do not depend on these cars for daily driving or have an alternative vehicle, we can keep these beautiful cars from boneyards.

 

Larry,

If you're in the rust belt like me in Michigan, these cars are highly prone to galvanic corrosion on the grounds. From what you're describing, a good start are the major grounds to the crossmember behind the headlights. They're easy to get to. Take the black plastic panel that goes across the whole car above the headlights off and they're easy to see. Even if they look OK, pull on them or check the nut gently. In my case, the whole bolt fell off when I put light pressure on the nut.

The one on the driver's side will definitely cause the "Christmas Tree" effect.

It may not be your problem, but it's an easy one to eliminate.

Good luck.

 

This info is from an old TSB but it is worth mentioning.

When diagnosing the above DTCs, note the following information:
DTC P1638 CAN Link ECM/Major Instrument Pack Circuit/Network Malfunction
This DTC may be stored if the battery is reconnected with the ignition switch in position 2 - the
normal engine running position.
Always ensure that the ignition switch is in position 0 (OFF) when disconnecting or reconnecting
the battery.

 

Hey thanks!. This issue is kinda buggin' lol. It seems to have just disappeared in the last week. And I have disconnected the battery on several occasions but don't believe I had the key in #2 position but not positive about that. It keeps giving me the idea that the weather temp may be involved but idk. Not really knowing for certain what caused or is causing this problem makes me not trust the vehicle atm very much. Still gonna try tracking this down as I believe the problem is not fixed yet. Loose wire or bad solder at the instrument cluster or a ground issue is my current possible culptrit. Dealing with the coolant/heating system right now has kinda superceded the no start issue lol. Waiting for a pressure tester I ordered last week to proceed on that one. Still have numerous other issues on my Jag and keep bouncing around to different problems as they arise lol.