Hello all, I have been having issues with Transmission fault. this is a new used car for me. The tranny appears to get to 3 gear and tries to change but doesn't go past 3rd gear. Then I get transmission fault. I have done some research on here and found lots of info. I notice someone posted that misfires could also cause this. I cleared codes and drove the car around until check engine light came back on. During that drive, Tranny fault came back on and at one point when I was approaching a light it was acting as if it didn't want to downshift. (usually how it starts) I noticed as I was slowing down it acted as if it was in neutral. I stopped at the light, tried to give gas and it wouldn't move as if it was in neutral. I put it in park and back in drive still no movement. Light turned green, car behind me blew horn lol, I turned off engine and restarted and car started shifting again, but still not pass 3rd gear, then tranny fault light. I am going to order new tranny pan and do tranny fluid change. Before I cleared the codes they were (P0300, P0304, P0306, P1316, P1000).


Is it possible this is causing my Tranny to malfunction? I was told 0304 and 0306 were misfires on those cylinders. not sure what the others are.

 

Possibly... But I think your missing some codes.. If your transmission fault displayed in the message center you must have a trans code displayed. (Probably 3-4 gear load code) P07XX, etc.

A fellow member with a similar issue changed his spark plugs and seen better improvement (but he serviced his trans and replaced the bridge and other seals on his valve body and didn't have misfire codes)

A few thoughts:

Mileage?
Trans previously serviced? Ever?

You have misfire codes and could be a contributor to your trans issues but I don't think it's a sole contributor - they must get corrected first before taking on and troubleshooting your trans issue.

As far as the trans is concerned you could be low on trans fluid. If you're planning on tackling this job yourself read up as there are specific protocols that must be followed.

If you sort the above and change pan/fluid and your 3-4 upshift issue remains it boils down to:

Faulty solenoid in valve body (4th gear)
TCM harness issue (sealing sleeve possibly leaking onto pins)
Faulty valve body
Trans mechanical fault requiring rebuild..

P0300 (multiple misfires detected)

Hope the above points you in the right direction.

 

You have lost either solenoid MV or E clutch or both. (No 4th, 5th, or 6th)

 

i pulled coils 4 and 6. the spark plugs look rusty as if they havent been firing. dont know when tranny was last serviced as this is a new car for me. not sure if previous person put in wrong fluid it looks like motor oil color.

 

LifeGuard 6 is the same color if not a little lighter than motor oil. It is not red. Plugs are not rusted. and look normal. Red or tan is from additives used in unleaded fuel.

 

To add to Box's comments more than likely it's the coils that probably are worn requiring replacement... Used LG6 would look like dark motor oil. Is is lighter brown color like box said when new..

 

Curiously, AND without explaining as to why or how it happened, I do know that failing coil packs can cause these types of issues, possibly also associated with larger than spec plug gaps.
Have also had issues with new, but cheap coil packs.
Only after a 3.5 k transmission rebuild, did two $50 coil packs removed the shifting flare and errors and false neutrals. A clue may be of in very gentle accelerations, it shifts.
Cannot explain what the software is doing, just have experience of it happening.

Also note that the trans fluid, ZF, is honey colored, and that the motor must be running, in park, and the temperature less than 45c, and a slow drain out of the side fill plug., About 2 qts extra go in when filling once it is running.

 

Thank you all for the replies. I did try to read the codes again, but I guess they are pending as only thing showing now is P1000. I put a tester on coils and they are firing and the plugs work as well. I pulled plug 2 and it's tip is darker than 4 and 6. I guess if the coil pack is firing that doesn't mean it is working correctly right?


I'm trying to do as much as I can on my own, without taking to dealership. I use to have a inline 6 and that motor/tranny was supposedly bullet proof. My dad had a 98 with the V8 and he had tranny issues as well. I guess Jag changed something after the inline 6. Anyway, I'm going to try the fluid change and filter change and see if that will change anything. I did notice after I started it yesterday it ran a little rough on start up when cold like it was missing a little, but then smoothed out. I am praying I don't have engine problem as well. The radiator hoses swell tight and I can smell anti freeze. If I go back the next day without starting car and open cap on plastic reservoir, it is still pressured with air in it?? I do NOT want to do any damage to this car. I have had several Jags, but not like this. I also noticed yesterday when I started motor I heard a sound like something rattling almost like a tiny ping/knock being tossed around. (not constant) could water pump make this noise?

 

What and where is that? lol


I have read about a connection getting oil on it and a seal. Where is this connection so I can check it please. Thanks,

 

Solenoid MV is the black solenoid in the valve body inside the transmission and connected directly to the Mechatronic TCM. Clutch E is generally the failure component.

 

Hi JaguarVDP,

To add to the great advice you've already received:

I can recommend the Airtex/Wells 5C1420 coils available from Rock Auto for just $31.79 each. The ones I've received are marked FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company), suggesting they are the coils that Ford and Lincoln dealers are installing in the Thunderbird and LS. They may even be the coils Jaguar and Land Rover are using now that the OE Densos are no longer available. If the money is no problem, it would be worth replacing all eight coils, but I just ordered the number of coils that went bad on my car, plus one or two spares to keep in the trunk.

Regarding fault codes, it helps to have the Diagnostic Trouble Code Summaries Manual, which you can download here:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...03388427,d.cWw

The Workshop Manual has definitions for some additional codes that aren't in the DTC Summaries. You can download the Workshop Manual in six sections at these links:

Table Of Contents

General Information Attachment 138208

Chassis

Powertrain

Electrical

Body


Also, I'm attaching the ZF 6HP26 Functional Description manual in 2 parts, the On-Board Diagnostics manual and the Troubleshooting manual.

Since you don't have any transmission-related codes present, I fear that David is right about the internal transmission faults, but it would be worth correcting the misfires, checking the transmission fluid level, and checking the transmission electrical connector at the rear upper right corner of the transmission for any oil contamination and if any is found, flush all connector pins and terminals with zero-residue electrical contact cleaner (and start planning to change your transmission pan/filter, fluid and sleeve, at the bare minimum).

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

Change the plugs and coils now to verify. You gonna have to do it sooner or later anyways and it's your cheapest solution at the moment. These were giving me transmission problems. Would also get better once the case would get warm. It took a days for my car to while throw a misfire code before I really knew it was misfiring.

 

Misfires cause little engine jerks that can upset a trans or the PCM thinks the trans is at fault. Fix the misfires and see if it runs OK.

 

is anyone using this tranny fliud? says for Jaguar ZF and some other...

 

Thank You!😊

 

The nearest non-ZF fluid for the ZF 6HP26 is Mercon SP (and NOT Mercon LV even if you are told it's equivalent)

It's the fluid that Ford specify for the 6-speed ZF box in their cars, and in their versions of the ZF 6-speed box, and they are the only Ford boxes that use Merc SP.

The Jaguar number given for Pentosin ATF1 corresponds to Esso LT1141 which is the fluid specified for ZF's 5-speed boxes.

ZF make a lot of claims that their fluid, Lifeguard 6, that they specify for the 6HP26 contains special friction modifiers etc etc, but I don't think they actually go so far as to state that they ZF themselves add them; they just like to give you that impression.

The fluid specified for ZF's 6-speed boxes is Shell M.1375.4 which is not available as such in retail quantities. However, Mercon SP is made in the US ... 'Roll on the drums' ... by Shell ! Draw your own conclusions.


Also worth noting that Jag don't actually specify LG6, they specify Shell M.1375.4

 

thank you for that info! so guess i will NOT put the pentosin in the tranny. if i dont find the mercon SP then i will try to get the ZF fluid.

thanks

 

Worth looking for it because it (Mercon SP) is far cheaper. It's even cheaper here in the UK if you find the right importer.

 

Shell produces Mercon SP for Ford Motorcraft. The actual spec from Jaguar in their documentation is Shell ATF M-1375.4, and not ZF's LifeGuard 6 specifically, however, ZF states use their fluid. You can buy cases of Motorcraft Mercon SP from Ryder Fleet a little under $6 a quart

https://prodepc.blob.core.windows.ne...en-CA)_TDS.pdf

 

Well, I started the car yesterday just to start it. And it does seem to be missing now and it is more noticeable. Now the dash is displaying Restricted Performance which it has not done before.


You know, this reminds me of my 2008 F250 Diesel when it was giving me misfires in 2 cylinders. Come to find out, it was the valves. 2 rocker arms failed. Different engine I know, but I am praying it is not mechanical. The coils and spark plugs for 4 & 6 were firing with test light not missing a beat after I put them back in.