Two ways you can decipher a miss. Listen at the exhaust each side you'll hear a puff, which will determine a miss fire, or get a COP and test each coil.

I tested each of my coils after they were fully warmed up yesterday (I have a COP) I found one coil was out of sync vs. The other 7 - I swapped it out and took the car out. 3-4 shift issue remains.

My last resort is swapping out the valve body and seals. If that doesn't work the car goes.... As is...

 

What is COP?

 

Coil Over Plug. If you have a oscilloscope, you can create a basic probe with a coil and a couple of caps. You would lay it on top of the coil to pickup the signal via induction.

 

Just to elaborate on terminology in the interest of clarity:

Coil-On-Plug or Coil-Over-Plug is the term for the modern ignition system used in the Jaguar X350, in which an individual ignition coil is mounted on each of the eight spark plugs, for a total of eight individual coils.

Each ignition coil is called an On-Plug Coil. They are often erroneously called "Coil Packs," but coil packs contain two or more ignition coils in one package and typically require high-voltage/high-tension wires to connect to the plugs.

I welcome abonano to correct me if I'm wrong, but I think what he was recommending was the use of a COP tester. They come in a variety of styles, from basic spark testers for less than USD $10 to more elaborate and expensive tools with increased functionality. Here are a few samples from a quick google search. The less expensive ones connect between the coil and ground, the more expensive ones work via induction as Box mentioned:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/OTC-Tools...ester/29374120
Bottom-line pricing on Lisle - 20700 at ToolTopia.com
https://www.amazon.com/SG-Tool-Aid-S.../dp/B003YNHK3K
Save on Hickok 765-2WA at ToolTopia.com
https://www.amazon.com/Waekon-76562-.../dp/B0021UPE58
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...FUokgQodux0NAA

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don, yes your absolutely correct! Thanks and my bad

 

started car again today still running rough like it is missing. i unplugged coil 4 and started it didnt make much of a difference. i have a new code now P0332? knock sensor 2, bank 2 low circuit??

Not able to really drive the car so i can get all codes. there are some CAN 4's and other stuff that says fail so I am guessing those are pending or not ready. Does any of this make since?

 

Go ahead and replace plugs and coils.

 

When P0332 is triggered the ECM applies maximum ignition retard and reduces the maximum engine speed, which is probably the reason you have the Restricted Performance warning. Possible causes listed in the DTC Summaries manual that I linked to in an earlier post are:

Poor Knock Sensor (KS) contact with the cylinder block
KS to ECM sense circuit short circuit to ground
KS failure

If you still don't have any coil-related DTCs, such as one or more of the P0300-P0308 codes, it may be premature to replace all the coils. However, it is perfectly prudent to have one or two spare new coils on hand to swap in place of any suspected failing coils and to replace any that prove to be faulty.

You mention additional CAN-related codes and others. CAN stands for Controller Area Network bus, which is the principal communication network between the main powertrain and chassis-related electronic modules (ECM, TCM, IC, DSC, ASM), so CAN faults can cause serious problems.

It may help if you post every code you've scanned so we have the complete diagnostic picture.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,


If all the faults were cleared. Will this cause the CAN's fail? Again this is a used vehicle and new to me. So I am praying nothing is missing. I will look again today and write down everything the handheld scanner is scanning. I do still have the cylinder 4 misfire, 6 hasn't shown back up yet since I cleared codes. A misfire rate above something and then a pending code. I will post them shortly


Thanks again for all the info.

 

 

It appears your scanner is unable to connect with the CAN in your Jag. It would be best if you could have the car scanned with the Jaguar Symptom-Driven Diagnostics (SDD) system so all the P, C, B and U codes can be read.

If you'll give us an idea of what part of the Lone Star State you're in, perhaps one of our members in that region has SDD and would be willing to help.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, the ISO-9141 is the bus protocol to read Jaguar. The other protocols are not utilized. Many ODB-II devices do not have the ability/not programmed to read the hex for codes outside of P codes. SDD is truly your friend when diagnosing our vehicles.

 

CAN bus is the communication between devices/modules on the vehicle. ISO-9141 is the ODB-II protocol for readers/scanners to communicate with the system. Clearing codes doesn't affect CAN bus per se, but poor connections/broken leads or failed transceivers in the devices can.

 

Garland, TX as of now.


Where can I get SDD from? Do I have to take it to a dealership?

 

Of course not!
You usually get a free copy of SDD when you buy a cloned chinese MongoosePro (a few tens of bucks).
Other earlier versions of IDS-SDD can be purchased on eBay, the 131.03 version is the last that you can use "freely" without being redirected to Topix.
You may also consider buying a genuine MongoosePro from Drew Tech for about USD 600 or consider a genuine VCM interface (even more expensive).
If you don't envisage programming and only want codes reading/clearing, a clone Mongoose may be sufficient but you still have to make your own device by loading the software on a laptop.
Plenty of threads here on SDD and the Mongoose

 

I pulled out plug 4 and some kind of it it got bent. there was NO gap. i replaced with an IFR5N-10 and the misfire on cylinder 4 went away. 6 hasnt shown back up. I am now down to 3 codes. P0332 knock sensor 2 low circuit current. the other P0332 knock sensor 2 low circuit pending went away after I changed the spark plug and restricted performance went away. as of now only P0332 current, P0101 pending and P1000 Pending is left.

 

thanks I will research the SSD / Mongoose

 

is this compatible?

 

Short answer, no.

The viscosity of Eneos ATF Type SP is too high compared to ZF Lifeguard 6, the only fluid ZF recommends in the 6HP26 transmission.

According to its Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), Eneos ATF Type SP has these properties:

Kinematic Viscosity at 40C of 37.27
Kinematic Viscosity at 100C of 7.46
Viscosity Index of 172


ZF Lifeguard 6 has these properties:

Kinematic Viscosity at 40C of 26.8 or 28.0 (depending on the MSDS date)
Kinematic Viscosity at 100C of 5.6
Viscosity Index of 151

According to the MSDS, the Eneos ATF Type SP is most commonly used in Mitsubishi, Kia and Hyundai transmissions. Here's the link to the MSDS:

http://www.eneos.us/wp-content/uploa...Sheet-2014.pdf

Many of us have spent countless hours researching this topic and thanks to the MSDS posted by Box earlier in this thread, the three fluids we know of that should function properly in the ZF 6HP26 transmission are:

ZF Lifeguard 6
Ford Mercon SP
Shell Spirax S4 ATF MSP

Here's a MSDS for ZF Lifeguard 6:
http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/ZF_Lifeguard_6.pdf

Here's the MSDS for Shell Spirax S4 ATF MSP / Ford Mercon SP that Box posted:
https://prodepc.blob.core.windows.ne...en-CA)_TDS.pdf

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,


Thanks for the info. The part store has Ford Motorcraft SP in stock. I have soooo many questions about this car. If problems have be fixed will codes go away on their own or do I have to clear them? My pending codes on misfires went away. How do I know that the computer is done scanning for everything? Well there be a code saying all systems are finished?


1. I had a pending code for Knock sensor Bank 2 a current and pending one. When I changed the bad spark plug the restricted performance msg went away as well as the pending Bank 2 knock sensor. The Bank 2 knock sensor (current) is still there. Does this have to be cleared manually?


2. I drove car up to warming temp. I noticed aux pump at lower bumper, in and out lines are both cold. If I open up the drain plug at bottom radiator it is cold water?? the water lines going to the 2 boxes labeled supercharger are not hot, but maybe lukewarm. The only hose I can recall hot (there may be others), is the big radiator hose at top of radiator running to the thermostat housing on the back/passenger side. The radiator hose that comes off the side of the thermostat housing/driver side going to bottom of radiator is cold. The hoses are under pressure and I notice a little water on top of water pump where the hose runs from back of thermostat down to the top of water pump/ valley?


Hope this makes sense. Could my water pump be leaking/ not pumping correctly. I took belt off and turned it by hand and it sounds like a baby voice lol. first time I turned it I thought someone was standing behind me mumbling.