So recently I replaced the Passenger side ballast and both D1S bulbs on my fathers XJR. Now the headlight is working again however it now has a leveling problem it did not have before. When you turn on the car the light will level normally however, right after they return to the up position the passenger side motor will incrementally drop the light while making a thumping noise. While watching from inside the car, the dropping happens in stepped increments corresponding with the ticking/thumping of the headlight. Do I have to reset the headlight or is it an issue now with the motor or the new ballast?

 

Swagger XC
Is the ballast an exact replacement? There are two models, the older one has 12 pins and the newer has fewer.

RyeJag

 

I am aware of the differences and made sure to order order the correct one (12 pin in our case).

 

Start from simple: Check all connections twice inside the lamp (I had problem with high beam gate opening for example) and launch headlights recalibration procedure in SDD.

 

I know its not easy to work on the headlights, but I would make sure that there is no corrosion on the ballast pins. A touch with fine sandpaper and spraying a contact cleaner may be the way to go. Also, make sure that the ballast connector is fully inserted. Another option would be to reinstall the original ballast and see if it works ok then. It sounds to me as if one of the ballast pins are simply not making contact.

I am not aware of any SDD re calibration proceedure.

RyeJag

 

HID headlamps use level sensors on the chassis lower control arms. They are also configured to the car and if they are replaced or disturbed, you might need to reconfigure the headlamps to set parameters.

WDS/IDS/SDD or AutoLogic, AutoEnginuity or other diagnostic equipment will be required to perform this function.

I had a customer with a 2005 S-Type that had a replacement headlamp fitted but the body shop could not get it to aim properly. I used WDS to reconfigure the headlamps and both went back to operating normally.

bob

 

So I tried putting the old ballast back in, didn't work and the thumping still remained. Tried to un-do the battery to reset the motors, that didn't work and now the driver's side is now making the same noise and dropping down. Do I need to bring it to the dealer to have it reset? I tried pulling the self-leveling fuse just to leave the lights stationary (Car has coil conversion so I don't see the necessity of self-leveling) , however that fuse is tied to like 6 other things. It's quite dangerous to drive at night now due to the fact the headlights are pointed almost straight down. Is there any other advice for this issue

 

The HID headlamps need the lower control arm level sensors for aiming. The fact that you disabled the air springs does not alter the fact that the headlamps need the input.

The dealer might be your solution but there are many repair shops that can configure the headlamps.

bob

 

I understand they need the sensors to work, however I just don't see the necessity in the self leveling system in the absence of the active suspension. Our Volvo c30 has HID projectors without self leveling motors and they get seem to get along just fine. Anyway I'll schedule an appointment to see if they can be recalibrated. If that doesn't work I think Ill just pull them out and pull the plugs on the leveling motors and then adjust them manually.