I wanted to open the hood (bonnet) and the handle pulled free, still pivoting at the top, but without any resistance.

So, does the X350 have a procedure for release?

 

Your cable has rusted up and the extra load on the ferrule at the opening lever end means it has probably pulled through. It's done this because some idiot at Jaguar on the production process department forgot to ensure the cables were lubricated before fitting. Try looking in there for the end of the cable behind the lever, and give it a strong pull with a Mole Grip attached. It should then release the hood, but don't leave it like that, you need a new cable which you should lubricate generously before fitting.

 

Another view of Cable Sheath out of bracket

Best view of cable sheath having come loose at lever bracket

How left front kick panel fits into cable tray with door seal pulled loose for access

1" square foam spacer block secured with double faced tape

Cable tray that runs along door threshold

clips that secure threshold plate molded into plate

close up of threshold plate clips

trim removal pliers used to pop loose threshold plate

view with threshold plate removed before removal of front kick panel
I found a thread in Archives titled "Bonnet Cable Release Not Working" with photos. The thread depicts two types of problems, first the cable where it connects to the lever inside the car and how the outer sheath comes loose and second how to release the bonnet by removing one of the grills.

I found that the problem was exactly as depicted in the thread with the sheath having come loose at the lever mounting bracket.

 

As soon as I popped the cable sheath ferule back in the slot I was able to open the bonnet.

I recall a procedure for lubing cables and sheaths for motor cycle controls that I plan to try here to address Frasier Mitchell's recommendation about the cable rusting inside the sheath causing the problem. I will post how I did it if it works. Essentially, you take the cable loose from the two bonnet latches and sliding a length of plastic tubing over the end of the cable and clamping it to the sheath. Then insert a syringe of lubricant into the end of the tubing and squirt the lubricant into the cable and sheath. Lube has to be low viscosity such as Kroil, etc. More than one syringe full of lube may be needed. Lube has to reach the latch to be effective.

 

On my first X350 the cable was beyond redemption, so I bought new cable that was not expensive at all, then used a motorcycle cable lubricator to lube the cable. These clamp on the end of the cable and used a screw with a piston to force oil out of the reservoir tube into the cable. I got a local mechanic guy to fit the new cable, and also re-route it to ease the load on the cable when opening.

 

Man did you luck out. I've heard horror stories of broken bonnet cables with modern cars including Jags and Land Rovers. Land Rover products you pretty much have to cut the grill out, or sometimes snake up from the bottom.

 

I replaced my cable recently, but after a month or two the attachment on the right hand side of the car (UK drivers side) came off the latch.

It turns out that you can pull the grilles out with your fingers, and then reach in and operate the latches by hand. Very useful to know, it would have saved a lot of messing around with mole grips when my cable came off the handle inside the car before I replaced the cable!

 

Well, I just had this happened to me this morning. I wanted to check the oil and coolant,....., pop, can't release the bonnet.:-( I'm going to try this method above.

 

On this car, at some point in history, the tamper shield has been removed.

 

Seems to be a common thing with the tamper shield being removed.
Was going to take mine off soon after purchasing, then saw it already handled.

 

Having changed my cable last week and finding it a total nightmare I’m going to have to check to see if the tamper shield is in place... I’m planning on making a tool to open the catches for the future but there is no way I’ll ever fit another cable, I’ll replace it with solenoids instead

 

Gulp,...., I have to try and tackle this problem this weekend,....., i don't like nightmares,....., any pearls of wisdom to share ?

 

Removing the interior pieces is easy, removing the bits under the hood/bonnet isn’t too bad either (you’ll need to drill a rivet, not a big issue but if you’ve pulled everything else apart and don’t have a drill you’re in trouble). Most of the trouble I had was getting the new grommet seated, it’s a bit tight there and I was working alone, my suggestion is a carpet on the floor, an old pillow or some kind of padding to put on the sill (your ribs will thank you), have an assistant hold the grommet straight from the engine bay side and push it against the firewall while you pull GENTLY with long nose pliers inside... if you pull too hard the whole grommet WILL come through and is a headache to get back through the hole

 

Many thanks V8driver,......., may The Force be with me:-/

 

No worries, you’ll need a long bar and a ratchet to get at the nuts holding the pollen filter in place... I can’t think of of anything else other than the odd spanner or a small screwdriver to poke with that you might need. I work nights but I’ll be about for a while after about 2 in the afternoon, feel free to PM me if you need help being talked through anything, I’ll guide you as best I can 👍

 

How did you get on?

 

I have been busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest with ECM problems. I did soak the end of the cable at the latches with AeroKroil penetrating oil and sprayed the latches with aerosol white lithium grease. The release lever is noticeably easier to operate, but once I get the car actually running again, I still plan to do a more thorough cable lube.