Ever since I had a new bearing put on the driver's rear wheel a few months ago, I've had brake rotational squeak and sometimes drag that burns through my brake pads. I've replaced everything to no avail--rotor, pads, caliper, and brake hose. And now just yesterday the master cylinder on which the jury is still out. (BTW, I had a terrible time bleeding the brakes and still have a little sponge in the pedal. Any secrets to getting them bled fully?)

So I'm wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem? It occurred to me yesterday that maybe it has to do with the parking brake tension? Could that have been messed up during the bearing replacement? The Jag manual refers to a special electronic parking release tool. And it says this: Calibrate the electric park brake using Jaguar approved diagnostic system. If the Jaguar approved diagnostic system is not available disconnect the battery for approximately 30 seconds, the vehicle will then prompt the driver to carry out the calibration procedure as per the vehicle hand book on re-connection.

Anyone have experience with this who could provide some first hand directions and an opinion if a problem with the calibration of the parking brake could be causing the caliper to be dragging the pads on the rotor?

Thanks!

 

If you suspect the parking brake can you just remove the fuse and if nescessery

disconnect the cable then see if that relieves the problem?

 

So that's a novel idea. Sure, I'll give that a try! Thanks!

 

Have you resolved this issue? My vehicle has had rotational brake noise (squeak/chirp) for a while now. I've already replaced the pads/rotors a year ago and that didn't help. The independent mechanic suggests that the problem has to do with cheap warped rotors and dusty semi-metallic pads. I will be replacing all calipers (factory re-manufactured), rotors (Brembo brand), and pads (Brembo brand), and brake fluid (Super DOT 4) soon. But after reading the factory manual, I'm hoping it's not a brake pedal issue, master cylinder problem, etc.

 

kbeachy

I have been trying to imagine what could cause this type of problem

and I am aware that many parts have been replaced but would it be

worth measuring the rotor /and/ or hub run outi?

The other possibilty is piston seizure but the caliper has been replaced.

Note that caliper slider pins should be greased with coppergrease

also between pad and shim and shim and piston IMO.

 

I still have the squeak after replacing the master cylinder. Not sure whether the pad is rubbing through yet, though. Initially I had just replaced the piston in the caliper, suspecting it as you did meirion1. I've never used shims. Are they supposed to be used on all brakes?

So yesterday I used my Mongoose SDD setup to recalibrate the park brake, the brake pedal, and one other thing I forget now. I also used the SDD to temporarily disable the park brake (as can be done in order to release its tension when servicing the brakes), and that actually didn't stop the squeak either. So now I'm even a little more stumped what it could be.

I've greased all parts and don't suspect the caliper pins because they were new with the caliper. The recalibration of the brake pedal helped the brakes not feel as soft as they did after I had put on the master cylinder and bled. I'll run through those three recalibrations again today just in case they need even more adjusting.

The run out is something to consider having checked. This all started after my local indie shop pressed a new bearing into the hub. They've said they can't imagine how that might have caused this problem because the bearing only seats one way. Could the hub possible have been put on slightly crooked? Or other ideas on that?

Thanks!

 

I was going to say that I have just realized that your brakes must be Brembo and I think that all the 4.2 l

Jags have brembo brakes.

My impression of Brembo is they must be mostly ok but if you have problems you have problems if you see what I mean.

The chances are IMO to answer your question, the problem emanates from the Brembo's and not from the hub.


I was going to pontificate a bit more (with no direct experience!) but then I saw this:


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...brakes-151601/




Good Luck

 

Thanks, meirion1. My brakes are not Brembo but standard. I had read the thread you linked to and have searched for anything else helpful on the forum. In that thread XJ8JR seemed not to have found any resolution for the brake squeal I'm afraid. I have a call in to my local Jag dealer to see what advice they might have.

In my messing with the dealer options yesterday with my SDD, and in particular trying to disable the option of having the park brake apply whenever the key is removed, an error occurred that now has 2 flashing lights and a config f fault message. So I need to try to figure out how to get that to go away today.

 

It appears that my brake problems were from two causes. First, the excessive brake pad wear was because the park brake cable needed to be replaced. Apparently it wasn't allowing enough release of the calipers. The cable rides on top of a rubber bumper on the stabilizer link and over time can become warn.

Second, the rotational squeaking sound is caused by the wheel turning a little out of round. The problem started when my indie mechanic pressed in a new bearing, so it's possible that it is not seated correctly or that the hub and/or knuckle have some wear.

My rear suspension components are breaking down too, which is what you'd expect from a 12 year old vehicle with 223k miles. So I've been pricing out upper and lower control arms, stabilizer link, and what not. I can use a Lincoln LS upper control arm and have new bushings pressed into the lower control arm as opposed to paying through the nose for original Jaguar parts.

 

Curious if the front wheel hub was replaced with a new bearing or if a bearing was pressed into the original hub? I recently replaced the hub and bearing on my 2004 XJR
RyeJag

 

It was the rear, not the front. I had a new bearing pressed into the original hub.

 

Are you burning through just rear pads? Perhaps I missed that in the earlier discussion. It is possible that the emergency (parking) brake cable was damaged during the bearing installation or even more likely that the cable was hung up causing the brakes to drag and then the bearing overheated. The bearing my need to be replaced again once you resolve the brake issue. The caliper may still be an issue if it is running too hot from the dragging brakes as well as the slide lubrication. Good Luck
RyeJag

 

bearing endfloat excessive? should have been setup with the bearing change. just a thought

 

The problem was isolated to the driver's rear wheel. The pads were burning through only there.

I think the caliper grab has been resolved with replacement of the park brake cable. Before the cable replacement, the EPB was making a little clunking noise on that wheel when applied. That also leads me to believe it was hung up somewhere.

I have a new bearing on order, will get that replaced again, and then see whether the wheel still has any wobble to it.

 

I'm also getting ready to inspect my rear pads... since I've purchased my Jag, two years ago, I've noticed the squeaky noise but I did not inspect the brakes. Less than 2000 miles later I noticed the rear pin indicators flushed on the calipers which shows brake pad wear but the front indicators look fine. The articles I’ve read discusses possible causes for wear such as EB cable line and type of pads to use etc. This is going to help me analyze the job in more detail. As soon as I complete the task I’ll post the results. Thanks to all!

 

A Jag tech who checked out my car told me he thought the bearing when replaced 8 months ago might not have been seated correctly. He noticed that the wheel has a little wobble to it, causing the squeak on rotation. He recommended having the bearing redone.

So I had that done and the rotor turned to make sure there is no warp. But believe it or not, the rotational squeak persists. The lower control arm's outermost bushing is kind of warn out, so maybe that is allowing the wheel to wobble. All I know to do next is to replace the bearing and see what effect that has. Any other suggestions?

 

I take it that the wobble was with the car on jack stands? That is normal because of the way that universal joints work especially with large differences in angle between the drive and driven shafts which is what you get when you allow the suspension arm to hang loose. The wobble disappears when the wheels are on the ground. The main thing is the bearing free play which critical. The bearing seat is quite deep in the hub, I would think that it is difficult to **** it up but that would be noticed when the tech should have done the end float check.

 

Once you have the wheel bearing redone you should check again. Potentially the loose bushing may be an issue but not likely for the brakes.

RyeJag

 

The reason that you are having this problem is because you are not using the proper shim on the brake pad at the North and South edges.... usually you can only fit one shim....I place it usually on the top side of the mounting bracket... when you don't have shims in the pad sits too low in the Caaliper braket the shim elevates the pad in the bracket in this stops the squeak or the scraping noise because the elevation seats the pad at the proper angle so there is no more rub. On most cars these shims have been disregarded during previous brake jobs as they came with the origional calipers.