Hi all - I am waiting to borrow an OBD reader, but in the meantime i pulled the following DTC codes from the instrument cluster "test mode":

A139
A879
E510
E511

Vehicle is a 2005 xj8L with 46K miles. it drives just fine, and I am not noticing any issues, however the amber light and "check engine" symbol came on, and intermittently the Restricted Performance message. Although the performance seems fine to me.

I looked up those codes, but can't really find anything... most the codes are like Pxxx or Cxxx or such, can't find a list of A or E codes.

Another post here on the forum suggested that Axxx meant Bxxx and Exxx meant Uxxx, but I can't find B or U codes either.

Any ideas on how to convert those into something useful? Thanks in advance

adam

 

update - I was able to find a little more info, not sure which direction this will take me.

so if Axxx = B2xxx and Exxx means U2xxx then i have

B2139, B2879, U2510, and U2511

not sure how these all relate, but B2139 seems like a generic battery/security/locking system warning. B2879 says Fuel pump, then the U2510 and U2511 seem to indicate something about invalid data.

The only thing remarkable about the day this happened was that I filled up my tank, exxon premium as always, and took a few hundred mile road trip. It came on on the way back, but again, i didn't notice any actual symptoms.

Any experienced techs have any thoughts on what that combination of things might tell me? Battery going south? Dreaded earth points behind headlamp? Sorcery??

this is assuming i interpreted the DTC codes correctly...

 

why is it i am inspired with better search terms AFTER i've already posted a thread asking for help. THIS is useful! (scroll down for our models)

http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/E...nt_Cluster.pdf

 

Those codes may have been there 11 years.

My car has codes that have been there (in the cluster) all 7 years I've owned the car yet has no genuine codes.

I suggest to ignore them. Get a proper diagnostic tool and use it.

(Somewhere I posted how to convert these ancient codes before I realised how utterly useless they are.)

 

Well that is good to know, thanks! Once i get hold of the code reader, it will be interesting to see what is in there and if it matches at all. Something turned on the CEL, suspiciously close now that i think about it to the mileage the oil is due to be changed...

will update!

 

No lights come on when X350's need their oil changed.

 

ahh, they don't have any sort of "service reminder"? that was what I was thinking, good to know then.

 

Hey JagV8. You mentioned in the other thread something about the battery voltage being low. Mine seems to be around 11.1V then goes up to ~14 with the engine started. Do you think that the oddball indications might be caused by the low voltage? Or to put it another way, do you think it would be wise to replace the battery before chasing those down?

just to keep you from having to read the thread over, its basically the CEL and occasionally the "restricted performance" message, but with an amber (not red) light, which comes and goes. No rough running or change in mpg that i can tell.

I'll get the codes pulled soon, but your comment about the battery made me wonder. thanks!

 

The 14-ish sounds like alternator and is probably OK.

But 11-ish is dire!! Roughly a dead battery and they can cause fake codes. Can also cause restricted.

You get to figure if it'll recover if charged (smart charger for an extended time) or to replace...

BTW an elm327 should work on your car (USB laptop, WiFi Apple/Android, BT Android). Cheap and easy.

 

Picked up an ELM327 unit (VEEPeak), one which seemed to have mostly 5 star ratings on amazon, wifi... connected to the port, ignition to II and I am able to connect to the wifi hotspot with my ipad. However, i've tried 2 apps (Carista, and Dash Command) one of which I have paid for, and neither will connect to this thing. Dash Command should at least connect to it since that is what the product recommended.

Does anyone know which OBD2 protocol the x350 uses off the top of their head? Upon reading the manual, looks like there are quite a number, and I expected this to work based on feedback from other buyers :-(

Something strange going on that's for sure

 

.. and it connects on another vehicle so I guess this one goes on the list of not-compatible scanners :-(

 

Just possibly you might check any fuses etc for the DLC (OBD port).

 

OK borrowed a different one - BlueDriver - and it works.

P0171...

 

Ok so i cleaned the MAF sensor according to the directions on the can, and while i was in there replaced the air filter. The hose attaching to the throttle body popped right off, leading me to think it had been loose. Anyway, all back together and cleared codes and went for a drive. Unfortunately it is still throwing P0171.

What would be good numbers to look for for fuel trim values? Is there a way to tell if the MAF sensor is reading correctly? how long driving before the long term values settle out, or should i be looking at short term?

I guess next step is keep looking for leaks and start looking at o2 sensors. Any readings on o2 sensors that would be helpful to at least narrow down which one i'm looking at before i start squirming around on my back?

This BlueDriver sensor is great btw, very comprehensive and it works with bluetooth and iPad, unlike some others. Only down side is its $99. it should pay for itself before this exercise is through though...

 

The Ultra-gauge on my 2006 SV8 says CAN-11 bit protocol.

 

actually, shortly after my latest update it went ahead and threw p0174 to go along with p0171. So, either i introduced another small leak or the MAF sensor finally gave it up altogether and is now showing for both banks. When I have time i'll go in and check all of the hoses that I touched. On rockauto.com I see quite a few MAFs that are listed for my vehicle, ranging from about $41 bucks to about $75... any thing in particular to look for here?

still interested in feeback on the previous question as well, re fuel trim values and O2 sensor readings.

 

LTFTs shoujld be near zero

 

I'll have to check again, but from memory they were both in the low double-digits (10-18%).

 

gonna start a new thread since i've gone off my own topic now.