Coolant flush.
#1
03-13-2010, 06:19 PM
Top Answer
03-14-2010, 07:16 AM
Yes, Dexcool is the correct commercial brand anti-freeze to use. Jaguar switched over to an OAT coolant formula in approimately the 1999 MY, although it varied by 1/2 years with some models. OAT comes with warnings not to mix with other types. In the US, OAT is orange in color and you should find a label on the coolant expansion tank next to the cap that instructs to use orange colored anti freeze.
I can suggest a good and simple process to flush for DIY. In fact, I just did a flush in an 04 this last week this way. The flush is difficult on this car because 50% of the coolant stays in the engine and heater cores. The leftside heater core is especially vulnerable to corrosion that can destroy the core. I do not like to use chemical flushes of any kind with an OAT system. Instead I flush the system with pure distilled water. The system holds 10 1/2 qts of coolant, so to obtain a 50/50 mixture you need 5 qts of undiluted Dexcool, then purchase 4 gallons of distilled bottled water from the grocery store. You will use a drain/refill/drive/drain process to purge the system.
First remove the FRONT undertray (directly under the front bumper) to expose the radiator drain plug on the lefhand side of the radiator. Open the plastic plug, catch coolant in a pan. The plug can be completely removed, or you can just let it extend, it will hold itself in place. Now loosen the expansion tank cover. Also, on the expansion tank you'll find a plastic bleed screw about the size of a dime. loosen it too enough to let air through. Once the drain is completed, (about 5 qts) replace the drain plug, fill the system with pure distilled water. Tighten the bleed screw, replace the cap, start the engine and go for at least a 15 minute drive with the heater in HIGH, High fans. Return and repeat this entire process two more times with distilled water - drain/refill/drive/drain, heater always on high the entire drive.
On the fourth cycle - Drain, close the drain plug, replace the undertray, fill with approx. 5 qts of PURE DEXCOOL. Now drive one last time about 30 minutes with heater on high heat, high fans. Return and with the engine still running, gently open the bleed screw until liquid seeps, tighten screw just until the seeping stops, and you're done. After the car cools completely, check the level in the expansion tank and top off with Dexcool if needed.
I can suggest a good and simple process to flush for DIY. In fact, I just did a flush in an 04 this last week this way. The flush is difficult on this car because 50% of the coolant stays in the engine and heater cores. The leftside heater core is especially vulnerable to corrosion that can destroy the core. I do not like to use chemical flushes of any kind with an OAT system. Instead I flush the system with pure distilled water. The system holds 10 1/2 qts of coolant, so to obtain a 50/50 mixture you need 5 qts of undiluted Dexcool, then purchase 4 gallons of distilled bottled water from the grocery store. You will use a drain/refill/drive/drain process to purge the system.
First remove the FRONT undertray (directly under the front bumper) to expose the radiator drain plug on the lefhand side of the radiator. Open the plastic plug, catch coolant in a pan. The plug can be completely removed, or you can just let it extend, it will hold itself in place. Now loosen the expansion tank cover. Also, on the expansion tank you'll find a plastic bleed screw about the size of a dime. loosen it too enough to let air through. Once the drain is completed, (about 5 qts) replace the drain plug, fill the system with pure distilled water. Tighten the bleed screw, replace the cap, start the engine and go for at least a 15 minute drive with the heater in HIGH, High fans. Return and repeat this entire process two more times with distilled water - drain/refill/drive/drain, heater always on high the entire drive.
On the fourth cycle - Drain, close the drain plug, replace the undertray, fill with approx. 5 qts of PURE DEXCOOL. Now drive one last time about 30 minutes with heater on high heat, high fans. Return and with the engine still running, gently open the bleed screw until liquid seeps, tighten screw just until the seeping stops, and you're done. After the car cools completely, check the level in the expansion tank and top off with Dexcool if needed.
#2
03-14-2010, 07:16 AM
Yes, Dexcool is the correct commercial brand anti-freeze to use. Jaguar switched over to an OAT coolant formula in approimately the 1999 MY, although it varied by 1/2 years with some models. OAT comes with warnings not to mix with other types. In the US, OAT is orange in color and you should find a label on the coolant expansion tank next to the cap that instructs to use orange colored anti freeze.
I can suggest a good and simple process to flush for DIY. In fact, I just did a flush in an 04 this last week this way. The flush is difficult on this car because 50% of the coolant stays in the engine and heater cores. The leftside heater core is especially vulnerable to corrosion that can destroy the core. I do not like to use chemical flushes of any kind with an OAT system. Instead I flush the system with pure distilled water. The system holds 10 1/2 qts of coolant, so to obtain a 50/50 mixture you need 5 qts of undiluted Dexcool, then purchase 4 gallons of distilled bottled water from the grocery store. You will use a drain/refill/drive/drain process to purge the system.
First remove the FRONT undertray (directly under the front bumper) to expose the radiator drain plug on the lefhand side of the radiator. Open the plastic plug, catch coolant in a pan. The plug can be completely removed, or you can just let it extend, it will hold itself in place. Now loosen the expansion tank cover. Also, on the expansion tank you'll find a plastic bleed screw about the size of a dime. loosen it too enough to let air through. Once the drain is completed, (about 5 qts) replace the drain plug, fill the system with pure distilled water. Tighten the bleed screw, replace the cap, start the engine and go for at least a 15 minute drive with the heater in HIGH, High fans. Return and repeat this entire process two more times with distilled water - drain/refill/drive/drain, heater always on high the entire drive.
On the fourth cycle - Drain, close the drain plug, replace the undertray, fill with approx. 5 qts of PURE DEXCOOL. Now drive one last time about 30 minutes with heater on high heat, high fans. Return and with the engine still running, gently open the bleed screw until liquid seeps, tighten screw just until the seeping stops, and you're done. After the car cools completely, check the level in the expansion tank and top off with Dexcool if needed.
I can suggest a good and simple process to flush for DIY. In fact, I just did a flush in an 04 this last week this way. The flush is difficult on this car because 50% of the coolant stays in the engine and heater cores. The leftside heater core is especially vulnerable to corrosion that can destroy the core. I do not like to use chemical flushes of any kind with an OAT system. Instead I flush the system with pure distilled water. The system holds 10 1/2 qts of coolant, so to obtain a 50/50 mixture you need 5 qts of undiluted Dexcool, then purchase 4 gallons of distilled bottled water from the grocery store. You will use a drain/refill/drive/drain process to purge the system.
First remove the FRONT undertray (directly under the front bumper) to expose the radiator drain plug on the lefhand side of the radiator. Open the plastic plug, catch coolant in a pan. The plug can be completely removed, or you can just let it extend, it will hold itself in place. Now loosen the expansion tank cover. Also, on the expansion tank you'll find a plastic bleed screw about the size of a dime. loosen it too enough to let air through. Once the drain is completed, (about 5 qts) replace the drain plug, fill the system with pure distilled water. Tighten the bleed screw, replace the cap, start the engine and go for at least a 15 minute drive with the heater in HIGH, High fans. Return and repeat this entire process two more times with distilled water - drain/refill/drive/drain, heater always on high the entire drive.
On the fourth cycle - Drain, close the drain plug, replace the undertray, fill with approx. 5 qts of PURE DEXCOOL. Now drive one last time about 30 minutes with heater on high heat, high fans. Return and with the engine still running, gently open the bleed screw until liquid seeps, tighten screw just until the seeping stops, and you're done. After the car cools completely, check the level in the expansion tank and top off with Dexcool if needed.
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#5
05-14-2011, 03:21 AM
Senior Member
Yes, Dexcool is the correct commercial brand anti-freeze to use. Jaguar switched over to an OAT coolant formula in approimately the 1999 MY, although it varied by 1/2 years with some models. OAT comes with warnings not to mix with other types. In the US, OAT is orange in color and you should find a label on the coolant expansion tank next to the cap that instructs to use orange colored anti freeze.
I can suggest a good and simple process to flush for DIY. In fact, I just did a flush in an 04 this last week this way. The flush is difficult on this car because 50% of the coolant stays in the engine and heater cores. The leftside heater core is especially vulnerable to corrosion that can destroy the core. I do not like to use chemical flushes of any kind with an OAT system. Instead I flush the system with pure distilled water. The system holds 10 1/2 qts of coolant, so to obtain a 50/50 mixture you need 5 qts of undiluted Dexcool, then purchase 4 gallons of distilled bottled water from the grocery store. You will use a drain/refill/drive/drain process to purge the system.
First remove the FRONT undertray (directly under the front bumper) to expose the radiator drain plug on the lefhand side of the radiator. Open the plastic plug, catch coolant in a pan. The plug can be completely removed, or you can just let it extend, it will hold itself in place. Now loosen the expansion tank cover. Also, on the expansion tank you'll find a plastic bleed screw about the size of a dime. loosen it too enough to let air through. Once the drain is completed, (about 5 qts) replace the drain plug, fill the system with pure distilled water. Tighten the bleed screw, replace the cap, start the engine and go for at least a 15 minute drive with the heater in HIGH, High fans. Return and repeat this entire process two more times with distilled water - drain/refill/drive/drain, heater always on high the entire drive.
On the fourth cycle - Drain, close the drain plug, replace the undertray, fill with approx. 5 qts of PURE DEXCOOL. Now drive one last time about 30 minutes with heater on high heat, high fans. Return and with the engine still running, gently open the bleed screw until liquid seeps, tighten screw just until the seeping stops, and you're done. After the car cools completely, check the level in the expansion tank and top off with Dexcool if needed.
I can suggest a good and simple process to flush for DIY. In fact, I just did a flush in an 04 this last week this way. The flush is difficult on this car because 50% of the coolant stays in the engine and heater cores. The leftside heater core is especially vulnerable to corrosion that can destroy the core. I do not like to use chemical flushes of any kind with an OAT system. Instead I flush the system with pure distilled water. The system holds 10 1/2 qts of coolant, so to obtain a 50/50 mixture you need 5 qts of undiluted Dexcool, then purchase 4 gallons of distilled bottled water from the grocery store. You will use a drain/refill/drive/drain process to purge the system.
First remove the FRONT undertray (directly under the front bumper) to expose the radiator drain plug on the lefhand side of the radiator. Open the plastic plug, catch coolant in a pan. The plug can be completely removed, or you can just let it extend, it will hold itself in place. Now loosen the expansion tank cover. Also, on the expansion tank you'll find a plastic bleed screw about the size of a dime. loosen it too enough to let air through. Once the drain is completed, (about 5 qts) replace the drain plug, fill the system with pure distilled water. Tighten the bleed screw, replace the cap, start the engine and go for at least a 15 minute drive with the heater in HIGH, High fans. Return and repeat this entire process two more times with distilled water - drain/refill/drive/drain, heater always on high the entire drive.
On the fourth cycle - Drain, close the drain plug, replace the undertray, fill with approx. 5 qts of PURE DEXCOOL. Now drive one last time about 30 minutes with heater on high heat, high fans. Return and with the engine still running, gently open the bleed screw until liquid seeps, tighten screw just until the seeping stops, and you're done. After the car cools completely, check the level in the expansion tank and top off with Dexcool if needed.
GREAT info. Thanks for posting!
The previous owner -- a real blockhead -- used the green antifreeze. Can I flush it myself, or, in order to get rid of ALL the green stuff, should I have it power flushed by a shop?
Thank you,
SirJag
#6
12-24-2012, 12:33 PM
#7
12-25-2012, 09:09 AM
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#10
06-22-2014, 10:07 AM
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#12
10-28-2015, 01:11 PM
Member
x350 engine flush
Took the cover off, drained the coolant, but I could not get more than 3.0 3.5 quarts of water back in.
Drove the car with heater on, check engine light came on, low coolant light came on, temp did not get past the 1/2 way mark.
Anyone have the same issue? Should I give it another go?
Is the 10 min so the engine heats up enough to open the thermostat and get the clean distilled water in there? If my coolant is low the steam will not open the thermostat correct?
Drove the car with heater on, check engine light came on, low coolant light came on, temp did not get past the 1/2 way mark.
Anyone have the same issue? Should I give it another go?
Is the 10 min so the engine heats up enough to open the thermostat and get the clean distilled water in there? If my coolant is low the steam will not open the thermostat correct?
#13
10-28-2015, 06:21 PM
Turn your heater on full blast with the ignition on, but without the engine running and fill the reservoir. The electric pump will run and cycle the coolant through the block and heater cores and with the cap off the reservoir it will work all the air out. Since the engine isn't running generating heat, the system won't boil over. Just keep filling the reservoir as it drops.
After that, cap it and run it up to operating temp. If you do this 3-4 times with distilled water you'll completely flush the whole system. After that, do one last drain and at straight non premixed coolant get your water/coolant mix. It's not perfectly 50/50, but it will be close.
After that, cap it and run it up to operating temp. If you do this 3-4 times with distilled water you'll completely flush the whole system. After that, do one last drain and at straight non premixed coolant get your water/coolant mix. It's not perfectly 50/50, but it will be close.
Last edited by Torrid; 10-28-2015 at 06:26 PM.
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EsRay (09-17-2018)
#14
10-29-2015, 01:35 AM
Turn your heater on full blast with the ignition on, but without the engine running and fill the reservoir. The electric pump will run and cycle the coolant through the block and heater cores and with the cap off the reservoir it will work all the air out. Since the engine isn't running generating heat, the system won't boil over. Just keep filling the reservoir as it drops.
Also no need to have the heater on full, the aux heater pump runs when the ac/heater fan is on.
S/C aux coolant pump rus wi8th the ign on
Cheers
34by151
#15
10-29-2015, 08:40 AM
Good info,
I use this same info on my trucks
It can be a bit of a pain as you are continuosly diluting by 50%
Sure does get flushed well though, and the satisfaction of knowing its done well
I did this method in my buddies vette recently
We put the used coolant back in the clear water jugs and could see the progression as the fluid got lighter and lighter it was obviously more and more dilluted
I use this same info on my trucks
It can be a bit of a pain as you are continuosly diluting by 50%
Sure does get flushed well though, and the satisfaction of knowing its done well
I did this method in my buddies vette recently
We put the used coolant back in the clear water jugs and could see the progression as the fluid got lighter and lighter it was obviously more and more dilluted
#16
10-29-2015, 02:01 PM
Member
#18
09-05-2018, 12:15 PM
Junior Member
#19
09-05-2018, 12:28 PM
Member
#20
09-06-2018, 03:36 AM
Member
Blocks? If you mean the radiator yes there is a coolant drain plug at the bottom left.
2007 XJ8 X350