Hi,
I drive my jag for about just 200kms per week. For the past few months, I noticed that after driving for about 30 mins, the temp going up above the normal range of 92-95 as and when the car stopped over traffic lights or in waiting anywhere. It being summer in this hot city, putting ON the AC would speed up the temp going faster. Subsequently the message center flashes Engine Coolant Low every time and then it would not clear until the car was cooled down. After cooling, I would regularly check the coolant level and see that all is fine with no coolant depleted. As usual I drove my car to work the next day after driving it back home the previous evening. This time the temp shot up to 100 in a matter of few mins. I pulled over on the next available lay by and found a GOOD leak below the car. Had to get the car back home on a recovery. On investigating to find the source of leak, found a hose split from its bottom side (not visible, but can be felt with finger).
I have attached a few pics to show exactly what and where it is. Need help to the following:

1. Identify what are the two ends it connects to.
2. I manage to identify the hose from the similar looking part at britishparts.co.uk. (https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...let-pipe-p7231). I managed to remove the front clamp that is easily accessible. What I strangely see is that the face of the rear clamp is facing down. How is that removable ?
3. The hose size is straight 5 inches only, with 33mm internal diameter. I am not able to find the hose separate from the assembly. Can I fix any hose of similar specs/size ?


close-up view

complete view to see the location


Front clamp removed and hose bent upward to see the split.

Please help with any other advice.

Thanks.

 

Might help to get responses if I mention that his car is a 2004 V6

 

mentioned in signature,

 

Perhaps consider carefully cutting the upper pipe clamp (at the top where it is accessible) with a Dremel-type cutting tool and then using a conventional tightening hose clamp to fit a replacement pipe?
However, perhaps someone more knowledgable than I would explain how the top clamp can be released?

 

mentioned in signature,


My apologies, I didn't see it.

 

I don't have any experience with the 6 cylinder Jaguar you have but in tight places with OEM-style spring clamps a wire hose clamp plier can work.

Example:

 

If it were me, I would probably find a close to same size universal hose and use that if I could find the actual part at a reasonable price.

To get the clamp off, you might be able to swing the clamp around with a screw driver and by turning the hose now that you have one end off. Otherwise you can cut it off. I have used a dremel to remove them before. Then replace with a worm drive clamp once you are done.

 

Thanks for this info. I have ordered 1. Should be getting it in few days. Will update once I try that tool.

 

I have many different hose clamp pliers, including one like that in the referenced Amazon link. It will not work in the "valley| area you show in your first picture. To remove that hose (since you are replacing it anyway) I would cut it off as close to the clamp as you can. Then you should/will be able to reach the clamp with long nose pliers and remove it intact without cutting it. If you needed to save the hose and needed to remove it for some other reason, I would cut it off with a dremel tool. Provided the hose is stuck in place and will not rotate. There is a long reverse type of "pick" made that will reach past the clamp and slide between the hose and the metal it is probably stuck to. The clamp will expand and allow the pick to be worked around the hose enough to loosen it so that it may be rotated and then released. However that is more work than cutting either the hose or the clamp itself. Good luck.

 

I have cut the host to max possible anyways as it was useless with a split in it. Maybe you are right about the wired clamp remover due to the wide space needed on the sides. However will try it, if it does not work well, then will try with a long nose plier. Will look at the dremel tool as last resort with the help of another forum member

Thanks for the advice.

 

EsRay gave you the beat solution

 

Do not reuse those OEM hose clamps-they can't be tightened.

 

To be fair, they can't be over-tightened either, and they don't have threads that can be stripped. If they can't stop a leak you have other problems.
The OEM design is the one most commonly used on modern cars, and manufacturers know they are essentially foolproof.

Pete M

 

Agreed, these are my choice as well.
They keep constant pressure, without over doing things on the plastic connectors.

 

The Wired clamp plier head is about 3.5" wide and the space (width) in that valley is just about 2.5". SO, that option is out. I measured that the long nose plier needed should be about 2" after the bend. So that will be my next attempt. Will keep posted.

 

Hello guys,
I could not find any good long nose plie that could reach to hold the clamp. Finally I decided to undo one of the hoses that was obstructing the one to be removed. I removed the one connecting to the thermostat housing, and then used the regular croc plier to reach under the subject hose. That was an easy solution. I fixed the new hose, filled up, bleed the air out, and all was good. The temp stayed at the normal levels (90-93) even when the car is waiting with the engine ON for good long minutes. Also I drove a long distance and the temps stayed well under control. I hoped that was it, job done successfully. Drove comfortable for about a week.

But now, past 2 days, the message center shows ECL even when the temps in my scanner showing normal (or even better 89-92). I checked the coolant level in the bottle and it was normal, there was no leak either. These were exactly same symptom showing up right before this job. All this while I was understanding that ECL indicates that there is less coolant in the reservoir, or the reservoir sensor would be faulty. But now, I am beginning to think that ECL really means less coolant inside the engine, which means that, for some reason, the engine is not getting sufficient coolant after some time. And eventually, that results in temps going higher. All this happens even with the AC off. When not taken care off, that probably results in any (weakest) hose split.

Temps going up may be normal given the hot climate here during summers, but what I cannot understand why do I get the ECL message when the coolant level in bottle is good. Please help understand, if I am thinking in the right direction, and also how do we check if there is any block in the passage of coolant going inside the engine. And what is the solution ?

Thanks in advance.

 

I would think that if you are getting a low Coolant Level message when there is no loss of coolant or overheating, then it is likely that the Coolant Level Sensor or its connector are faulty?