My 2003 Super V8 started triggering the alarm randomly, now traced to the bonnet switch we believe, along the way discovered the passenger door and the rear drivers door are not unlocking, must still be deadlocked as neither can be opened from inside.
Has anybody managed to trigger the locks by hacking into the loom in the car body? Any other tips?

No codes related to locks
Drivers and rear passenger door working fine from fob and key so assume power supply is intact and it must be a signal issue

 

Are the doors deadlocked? ie do you use deadlocking?

In my experience the door locks/latches stop working because

of a failed micro switch in the lock and the failure can be intermittent

before it fails completely.

If the doors are deadlocked then that is a big problem

hence I suggest that you try to open the two doors say 3/4 times a day for the next few days

in case a lock will open.

If a door is single locked then you can open it from the inside even if the micro switch fails

but if it is double locked and the switch fails then it cannot be opened from the inside

Just once will save you a lot of aggravation

 

Yes dead locked, neither of the affected doors will open wit hthe interior handle. If i put my ear to the door when pressing the fob there is a tiny clunk, so something is happening. I hope this isnt going to end up with the angle grinder and new doors.

 

Have you tried opening the doors with the key in the lock on the driver's door?

 

Yes, that opens the drivers door only, i have the locking set for first fob press- drivers,second fob press to do them all, will go alter settings and try again.

 

No change,

Gleaned this information from a friend who understands the electrical pdf much better then i do

"Ground G9 is common to all locks and it’s in the lh a pillar so doubt this is your issue. Passenger door and both rears are off the REM. Passenger rear door has its own circuit but the passenger front and driver rear share and these are the 2 the issue is with."

Suggests perhaps module?

 

If you can hear a tiny click when you try to open those doors then the power is getting to the microswitches

but the latch is not opening.

Try moving the chrome buttons above the chrome interior handles.

There are two options in the door software ie
Lock and unlock the two front doors only
Lock and unlock all four doors
That is not what you have
Maybe try reselecting 'lock and unlock all four doors'

There is an electronic copy of the Owner's Manual in the sticky for this forum
I suggest you read the sections on door locking and security.

Also try a hard reset of the battery.

 

Appreciate the replies,

Had a fiddle yesterday

Lock setting in the head unit changed and re changed, hard reset applied twice, chrome buttons are inoperable/locked.

Going to check the connections on the REM and clean with contact spray, i had a long period of leakage from the body seams in the corners by the rear screen with water laying in the wheel well. The rear module is not the original for the car,dated the year after manufacture so been changed by a previous owner. I can buy an exact same module with identical long part number, i understand this is plug and plag wit hthe ident numbers?

Thanks again.

 

I think modules need programing regardles of part number.

My drivers door is also playing up and every now and again it wont open. The ony way to open it then is to open using the other front door and that releases the central locking and I can then open it.

 

There has been a fault posted-the details of which I can't recall but it was

solved by inspecting and cleaning the many contacts on the drivers' door module.

Re programming keys:

https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-2003-2005-driver-door-module-2w9f-13c791-bg.html
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/how-xj-x350-door-actuator-repair-132821/


More info here:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...repair-132821/

 

Thanks for that,
I was at Autoreserve yesterday and picked up a rear electronic module, to no avail unlocking problems remain. I am out of time now as imgoing skiing to France for a week, when i return im hoping to get it iterogated by sdd before i do any physical removal of door cards on the affected doors. The DDM is interesting tho, what is its role in the central locking architecture?

I have added the thread to my favourites for when i get to that stage.

 

I have just looked at the circuit diagram and the passenger and driver rear are both on the REM

so forget my comments re DDM which is for driver's door latch and 'talks" to remote key.

Location of REM shown in Electrical guide (pages prior to circuit diagrams).

Suggest you check and clean contacts look for pin pushed out etc.

 

Back from the Alps, i have cleaned the contacts on the existing Rear module, copious contact cleaner, toothbrush session and no change, i have also tried another module with the exact long part no,also so change in the outcome.

Next up will be the front seat out and get the door card off to access the lock its self, i have a new to me item and hoping to connect it in to release the rear door. The front i have been told is possible to release by pulling the mechanics of it up in the far reaches of the door internals. Hoping to not have to get too brutal with the card its self.

 

Have I got this right?

You are going to take the driver's seat out to access the rear door lock on the driver's side?

If you remove the card on rear door you will be able to get your hand onto the lock itself
but you will not be able to remove the lock by removing the holding screws.
I have read that an owner's mechanic has cut though the metal in front of the lock and destroyed the lock
with a large screwdriver to open it.

Going back to the tiny clicks when trying to open the doors it may be that
the lock needs more grease as stated in Henry Crun's detailed post.

When removing door card note that there is a plastic screw facing upwards at the bottom of the card.

Also hidden screw behind chrome handle

Good luck

 

Thanks im going slow and trying not to make any extra work.

 

Took a brave pill,some coffee and a couple of buns, made a start. My Bloody Doors round one!



Put these bits of string in at the beginning of lockdown







Back seat out is >30 seconds now



Thirty minutes to get this lump freed and out the door, the early training i recieved at Carnforth came back into the forefront. [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]







Gives me a nice space fitting a gent of my stature







Door card fixings removed and the screw at the bottom is missing its head????? it is plastic, that nugget gleaned from a fellow member at a bit of a do over the weekend [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img], perhaps this has been out before? Door card removed with just one breakage. It is possible to entirely remove the plastic screw with the card in place and the door shut.











You can now creat some access to get to the lock









All that went well enough but!!!



Reaching in and pulling the release on the lock does nothing, i kinda knew this but was harbouring a faint hope it would work.

Managed to pull off the connectors and attach them to my new to me lock., this new lock cycles when using the fob BUT the rear lock is still dormant???????? I had expected the new working lock in the front(this i believe to be the lead lock) to bring to life the rear door but not so.

 

Back on the sofa after the afternoon shift

Getting to this stage is really easy in the back. Few screws and a tug




However i cannot get this,the inner doorcard off as it is trapped both sides and bottom by the body.




Make a hole lol.

Pulled the connectors and asked the Badger to find my lock for me. Lock works(the new one)proving module and loom are good. I seem to have had a simultaneous failure of the two lock while in dead lock
Put in a telephone call to The Jag Specialist over at Doncaster, and here i must extend my thanks for the advice on this problem more then once. They now suggest a hammer and chisel/screwdriver to disassemble the lock in situ, bash it till it lets go of the striker sort of deal.This should leave me with damage free doors.
Being a lefty the rear is on my good side,however the front, wife says she is busy!
Packed up for now, think i will have the rest of the week off to press home this problem