Hi guys,

I'm having an issue with the electric window on the driver's door. It sometimes doesn't work, but after opening and closing the door a few times, it will occasionally start working again. However, this is happening less and less often, and I'm worried that soon I won't be able to close or open it at all.


I'm starting to suspect there's a microswitch in the driver's door that's responsible for allowing the window to open or close. The strange thing is, I can never operate the window when the door is open — this doesn't seem normal to me, especially since I can operate the windows in all the other doors while they're open.

Does anyone know where this microswitch might be located? I assume it's part of the locking module inside the door, but I haven't been able to find any posts specifically about this issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! 😊

 

Saw on your picture are you from Netherland?
I live in Luxemburg. I HAVE A SPARE CAR

 

It is a 2003 simple glass( not double )

 

Perhaps this link will help:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...tently-213200/

 

Wow! I randomly checked the forum today and you describe my EXACT same problem. One night I was driving home and my driver window just randomly lowered.

I was about to replace my driver side set of switches. Super easy yo do but I will check out this link and follow the action here 😁

 

That link describes totally different problem...but hope "we" find a solution.

 

Guys,

I’ve removed the driver door switch pack to check if the window switches are functioning correctly. I measured the resistance (Ohms) across the pins for the window controls, and all the switches appear to operate normally — they close the circuit as expected. So the switch pack has been tested and doesn't seem to be the issue.

However, the window sometimes opens but then won’t close. If I slam the door open and shut a couple of times, I can usually get control back and close the window. This leads me to suspect there may be a loose connection somewhere inside the door, possibly in the wiring leading to the window motor.

What are you're opinions on this?

 

Check behind door panels loosen ground ,clean up put back in ,spray clean connectors to motor , lube the window cable, window open push back in place the sourrounding window seal have a look if there is any obstruction in the sliding area reconnect every thing with panel off try.
c
Opening and closing doors is always a good idea

 

Marco

I will try to swap out my current/original set of switches with the set I pulled from a boneyard recently. At least we can see if that fixes my problem.

A thought, not sure it is a good one though😁 How old is your battery. Mine is greater than 5 years old and I honestly have other odd intermittent quirks with cruise control and ABS warnings.

I may bite the bullet and replace because I know many peoole/experts say that a weak battery can cause all sorts of gremlins

Randy

 

yes it is good idea to check your battery regularly. A battery at rest should read 12.6vdc. Below that gremlins can and do appear.

 

Guys,

The battery is brand new — only two months old — so we can rule that out.

I went ahead and removed the door card to access the plug on the window motor. I disconnected it and began measuring resistance, voltage, etc. I discovered that I never get 12V across the black (ground) and red/brown (+12V) wires, which supply power to the motor.
However, the signal from the window switches is present at the plug — I confirmed this by measuring resistance, so the switches appear to be working correctly.
I also checked the black ground wire for continuity to a point on the door, and it seems fine.

The fuse for this window (F37) is also good.

The only thing left to check now is the continuity of the red/brown wire between the plug and the fuse — I suspect that’s where the issue might be.

Check out this post:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-159673/
The user there experienced the exact same issue. He ended up replacing a section of wire in the A-pillar.

Given that the window sometimes works after I slam the door open or shut, I strongly suspect a broken or intermittent connection in the wiring loom where it enters the door.

What are your thoughts on this?



BTW: Check this answer from ChatGPT, I copied this exact same text into it:

Your diagnostics are solid, and your logic is spot on. Here's a breakdown of your approach and some thoughts:

✅ What You've Done Right:

• Ruled out the switch pack by testing resistance and confirming it's sending signal — great first step.
  
• Confirmed fuse F37 is good — so power should be getting through that circuit.
  
• Tested ground on the black wire and confirmed continuity to a grounding point — that narrows the issue to the positive feed.
  
• Noticed that 12V never arrives at the motor plug — which is key.
  
• Referenced a known issue in the forums that matches your symptoms almost exactly, including intermittent function with door movement — very relevant.
  
• Suspected a break in the red/brown wire, particularly in the A-pillar area or where the loom flexes when the door opens/closes — this is very likely.
  

🔧 What to Check Next:

• Continuity on the red/brown wire from the fuse (or power distribution point) to the motor plug. If there’s no continuity or high resistance, that confirms a break or bad splice.
  
• While checking, wiggle the loom gently and observe the multimeter. If continuity cuts in/out while flexing the loom, that’s your smoking gun.
  
• If you're able to access the loom inside the rubber boot between the door and the A-pillar, carefully slice it open and inspect the wires inside. Many users have found wires broken inside the insulation or hanging on by a few strands.
  

💡 My Opinion:

You're almost certainly correct — the red/brown wire is likely fractured or corroded inside the flexible loom, where it sees the most stress over time. This is a very common issue in vehicles with power windows and doors. It might not be a complete break, which is why the slamming helps by temporarily reconnecting the circuit.

The fact that another Jaguar owner solved it by replacing part of the loom in the A-pillar supports your conclusion. Once you confirm the break, splice in a new wire or repair the damaged section with solder and heat shrink, and you should be good to go.

✅ TL;DR:

Your thinking is right on track. It’s very likely a partial break in the red/brown wire inside the door/A-pillar loom. Once confirmed with a continuity check, repair or replace that section and you should have a permanent fix.

Let me know if you want wiring diagrams or suggestions for how to run a temporary bypass for testing!

 

Marco

Did you ever determine the cause? I finally am going to replace my driver door switch unit since the switch for driver door is almost coming off.

 

Not yet, I haven't had the chance to work on the car.. been in an traffic accident and injured my arm..
I think maybe next week I will resume looking for the cause, I will keep you updated.

 

Sorry to hear. Get better

I replaced the switch module on the door armrest and seemed to work better, but I need to use it for a few trips to see for sure

 

I have had the swapped set of driver door switches in place for a couple weeks. Seems in my case they are behaving as expected. Hope I did not just jinx myself!!