I was able to successfully replace the lower shock mount bushings in my 2005 XJR this weekend. The best part was I did not have to remove the control arm from the car. I think for anyone looking to do this, this is a great way to knock this out if you're on a budget.
The pics below show how it was done.

Tools used:
* Universal 'Press and Pull' bushing removal kit (example: 27pc Universal Press & Pull Sleeve Kit Bush Bearing Removal Insertion Tool Set | eBay)
* 15 & 18 MM sockets /wrenches
* T60 Torx bit
* 12 mm wrench
* 2.5-3" piece of 1.5 OD x.083" wall x 1.33" ID DOM steel tube (can get custom length thru onlinemetals.com or any other metal wholesaler)

The DOM steel tube fits over the bushing and contacts only the outer wall without damaging the rubber boot of the bushing.

1. Jack car front of car up, put on jack stands

2. unscrew air fittings on Air shock including the check valve. This will air out the shock completely (will explain later)

3. Detach curved control arm from knuckle (This is for clearance)

4. Remove lower shock bolt

5. Remove upper shock bolts, and position the lower shock fork out of the way to allow room to press out the bushing. 6. Assemble the bushing removal tool, finding the right size dye that will fit the bushing as it presses out.
6a. position DOM steel tube over boot of bushing, ensuring its properly centered and able to press the bushing out.

On to the pics :

Picture of Tubing I used. Dimensions are 1.5" OD x 0.83 Wall x 1.334 ID. This size fits perfectly over the rubber boot of the bushing, allowing it to be pressed out/in


Pic of tube and press dye all bolted up, ready to press bushing out.


Picture of pressing bushing in. Make sure the bushing is pressed in straight!


Another picture



Finished product!




One note I'll add: once this is all done the car will be very reluctant to air up both bags. This was one minor issue I had since I do not own a JLR SDD (yet)
I ended up getting the car on the ground (aired out completely) and driving it up and down the street to get the compressor to kick on and have the bags inflate.

All in all, this took about 90 mins total.

 

Nice work!

 

I agree, nice work! I did have one question: Was the bushing pushed out towards the front of the car, or towards the rear? Or does it not matter?

 

Good question.
the bushing is pressed out towards the rear of the car. Same with pressing in too.
The reason being, There is a nice flat machined surface on the rear facing side of the control arm which allows the press dye to sit nice and straight against the control arm.

 

Just so I'm not confused: In your second, third, and fourth photos, is the rear of the car towards the left or the right? Thanks.

 

Pictures show the LH side being done, the left side of the pics is the rear of the car.

 

Great job, stham! Thank you for taking the time to write up the DIY instructions and post the photos. This will help countless others in the future.

A couple of questions:

1. When you say to remove the upper shock bolts, do you mean the four nuts that secure the tops of the air spring/shock assembly to the suspension tower? If so, is it necessary to remove all the nuts, or would it be a good idea to leave at least one or two nuts loose, but still on their respective studs so the air spring/shock can't shift and possibly fall on you while you're working on the lower bushing?

2. According to the Dealer Service Training Manual, the pressure retention valves in the air springs are there to maintain a minimum pressure in the bags to prevent damage to the rubber bladders. Allowing the weight of the vehicle to sit on an unpressurized bag could potentially crease or even rupture the bladder. Do you think this job could be done by disconnecting the air hose but leaving the pressure retention valve in place?

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don,

1. you must remove all 4 and position the strut such that the lower fork can move out of the way of the bushing.

2. This is a valid point. I initially tried to do this job without removing the retaining valve, but the point of doing so is to be able to compress the spring and physically move it out of the way. I recognize this could potentially damage the bladders in doing so. alternatives would be:
-Using IDS/SDD to manually inflate bags
- removing/unbolting control arm to allow clearance

I wish there was a more consistent way of getting the car to pump the front up once the bags are aired out.

 

Hey all, have a question about this job. At the risk of sounding like a total moron, where would be the safest place to leave the car on stands for a few hours?

Collected my front suspension parts and hoping to do both sides at once, I have two lower ball joints, two lower front forward control arms, two air shock bushings for the rear arm as well as the two huge main bushings in the rear arm.

I have a friend who owns a machine shop that can press the bushings thankfully, just looking for some wisdom on the matter

 

If you are going to undo all of that, I would recommend NOT deflating the air suspension. It was a PITA to get it to finally pump up (I dont have JLR SDD or IDS)

 

How in the world do I get to the other side of the bolts for the curved from arm? I have a whole bunch of oil pan in my way? I see the holes they want you to use but there's no access. Typical Jaguar can add photos for reference

 

Took some time but I got both curved arms up front replaced, but it came with a side of disappointment. Creak is still very much present. Would the air shock bushing produce a creak/squeak while the car is riding over the curb into a driveway?

 

That bushing tool is not cheap!
Cheaper than the shop though.
Might be able to make something from threaded rod and pipe?

 

Please forgive me if I am being a bit stupid, but could you not achieve the same result by disconnecting the Upper Arm and the Sway Bar End Link?

 

Believe you may NOT be wrong, EsRay.
The sway bar end link, just might give you the needed room.
Always be willing to look at all the angles.
The front upper arms can be removed without all the disassembly in the instructions.
Being only one, of the many other shortcuts, if you look around.

 

I just wondered whether or not undoing the top 'wishbone' nut, the Sway Bar and removing all of the Air Shock nuts (bar one) before pushing it back out of your way might be easier than messing about with de-compressing the Air Shocks? In any event, how about at the same time removing fuse 52 and insodoing, telling the Air Suspension to 'Do One' until you have finished?