Anyone have a photo of the safe jacking point(s) for a floor jack? I did a search and am looking at the drawing with the black dots, but I am not clear from the sketch exactly what to look for underneath.

The factory jacking points have been buggered up so I would like to use floor jacks and yes I did read that both sides need to be jacked up equally to avoid tweeking the body.

Does the factory jack span the flange at the jacking point or does it fit on the outside of the flange where the body panel is relieved? I thought about making a wood block with a kurf cut to fit over the flange and extend below the body panel; any down side to lifting there with a floor jack. (from the looks of the flange it has been done before without benefit of a pad).

BTW, It had a circuit failure on the left front level sensor and both front shocks are at or near their bottoms making it hard to see underneath where to jack; it is too low to drive on my ramps. I had to drive home 120 miles with the funny car low-rider look and the only good thing was that it got 27 miles to the US gallon with the nose lowered. Also, while it thumped and jarred us pretty good on some of the bridge transitions, it didn't clunk at all, making me think my clunk could be the relatively new Arnott air shocks rather than suspension bushings. I need to get her up high enough to find out what opened or shorted that level sensor circuit and hopefully get her to rise up again. And it's probably time to put the bagpipingandy kit in the compressor too.

I got the SV8 up high enough with wood blocks and two floor jacks at the OEM jacking points and took one wheel off to find the problem with the level sensor – a broken wire inside the sheath. I love it when a fault cause becomes obvious.

A soldered patch wire, some heat shrink and tape, and a short drive to let the compressor wake up, and it is back to normal. Unfortunately that also means the usual front end clunk is back too, but that's for another day.

Time to hit the couch and let Napcar lull me to sleep.