Lord willen & crick don't rise, I plan to crank her after being in the Valley for 4 months.

Regardless of how it turns out, I will be forever grateful for all of your help. One of the toughest parts of approaching 80 is the loss of friends and loved ones. Between this project with your help, my sailing, friends, family & faith, it has been possible for me to keep going in spite of the losses. How uplifting you all have been! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Now, back to business!

Unless someone sees a reason not to, I will put a trickle charger on the battery. Should I touch the battery cables together to do some sort of "reset". After closing the drain, I think refilling with coolant should be pretty staightforward. The coolant plug in the supercharger should be tightened last after the level is checked? In addition to checking sensor connections, hose clips, etc., is there anything else to look out for from your experience? Because it was leaking, I also replaced the front right air shock; hence, she is down in the front. I hope the compressor takes care of this without any further accommodation needed?

In order to observe more closely, I am planning to start her without the front bumper cover, headlamps, etc. Will this cause any problems with her brain? Is there a need to put any of the breathing apparatus over the throttle body before cranking? Assuming her dash doesn't light up like a Christmas tree, how long should I let her idle to get everything open before I drive her around the domain to remind my neighbors that they are wise to fear me? I would think 30 minutes should be enough idle time.

As always, any and all comments and suggestions are very much appreciated.

Carpe diem,

Steve S.

 

You are in my thoughts, @04Xjrsteve !
I wish you all the luck and can't waight to hear from you on other side of this endeavor!

 

Thanks, Big Guy!

Pray it will be a celebratory occassion with confetti raining down and champagne corks popping and everyone dancing!! No really, just having her up and about again will suffice! Oh, & watching the dismay on the faces of my disbelieving friends & family!

Have a great day!

 

proove them wrong!

 

Hi Steve,

the big moment is nearing, I remember how exited I was when I did the job myself... Good Luck!

I have inserted my views into the text below.

All the best,

Thomas

 

Thanks, Thomas.

Yep, it is hard for me to believe how this has captivated me and how much anticipation there is. For a time, I traded every 2 years with little particular affection for any one car; well, maybe for a few like the 67 Healy 3000 MKIII. The only issues that I ever had with the Healy was during the times I had my cadet uniform on and drove near the nursing school. I practically needed a stick to beat them off! I'm not kidding!

The battery should be fine since it has been disconnected the entire time & I'm relieved not to be touching the cables together.

I am a bit concerned about how the car responds to the new shock. I didn't follow the recommended procedure. I seem to recall that when I replaced the left front, I encountered a similar scenario & the car took care of it. We'll see.

Best,

Steve S.

 

Good luck my friend. Sounds like you have all bases covered. Make sure to hook up all crankcase vent hoses too and double check all sensor plug ins. Then you will smile at the roar of the engine like i did when i did my supercharger and related stuff

 

almost feels like you should record the engine start 😁👍🏻

 

Somehow, in following 18.50.15, I saw no mention of placing the brake vacuum tube into the brass cavity of the throttle body elbow & forgot to use my common sense and hook it up after installing the TB Elbow. Using the endoscope, I am able to see the brass ring and I'm able to move the pipe so it, too, is visible. The small hose & all other hoses and attachments are on both the TB Elbow & the TB. I haven't spent a lot of time trying to figure it out yet. But it looks like I will have to at least remove the supercharger outlet pipe.

Has anyone been successful installing the pipe without disassembling? I have nothing above the supercharger outlet pipe.

As always, your help is much appreciated. Steve S.

 

Mr. Jaguar designed this part with me in mind! Using a good light and finding a line of site, I was able to get that sucker installed without having to use the endoscope.

Now, will check all around & install the serpentine & SC belt, juice her up, attach the battery... & we'll see what happens!

 

Hi Steve,

oh my, to quote something from quite a famous film... **** happens! And I add: unfortunately!!

I did not have to try to install the brake vacuum tube without disassembling, but I believe tha you are right in saying that at least the supercharger outlet pipe has to go. Fortunatelyy, this is not that difficult.

Then I believe that you might be able to reach the fitting, maybe using some forceps. Luckily, there are no screws in this fitting, you just insert the tube into the plastic lock and you are done when you hear the click.

Good luck!

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks, Thomas. We crossed in the ether! Actually, I think it may be designed to be removed & installed without further disassembling.

Carpe diem,

Steve S.

 

Yes, we crossed..

Good to hear that you were able to fix it without too much trouble!

Carpe noctem

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Great on getting the booster pipe into the fitting and not having the pipe crumble upon movement. Hopefully you will be hearing the wonderful engine sound soon. One thing i remember is that the supercharger may make a funny noise for a few seconds until the oil is able to circulate to the nose bearings. Even pre oiled mine made a sound. A few seconds at idle and all was well

 

Main serpentine belt went on 1, 2. 3. However the SC Belt needs a gnat's *** more to make over the SC pulley lip. I've got the tensioner pulled over as hard as possible. I replaced both belts a while back; so, I would think this would go right on.

Any ideas? I can see that everything is in good order, except the bottom right looks just a bit caddywompus? I've tried to move it over down there, but it pays me no mind.

Any ideas?

Thanks and best,

Steve S.

 

OK, Bottom looks in good order too. Just can't get it that last mm?

 

OK, never mind. Put it around idler pulley last and it went 1, 2, 3. Geesh!!

Best,

Syeve S.

 

JLR motorcar 'Engineering' can indeed become annoying enough as to make a person forget their own name...

 

Tomorrow will fill with coolant & have a a go at it!

Question: Filling instructions say to have the front high. Since I changed a shock, she is anything but. Should I jack her up?

Thanks for all of the wonderful help!

Steve S.

 

I have a vacuum coolant charging rig, very much recommend it - 'essential' for the 5.0l crossbreed between the Devil and Sumerian irrigation works it calls a cooling system.in the Rover.

Previously used a short length of thinwall PVC "tailpiece extension" ..... left-over from a bathroom vanity refurb.

The slightly tapered OD of that just happens to fit the filler neck ID tightly, raising the high-point whilst filling so as to be significantly higher than the bleeder points. I use the concentrated coolant, so once I have 'more than enough' I can top-off with ignorant water, not waste much $$$ whilst bleeding.

Bleeding can take several goes. Plan on at least two, even with the vacuum rig, as the heater circuit actively resists clearing trapped air and taking-on its share of coolant.

And keep a REALLY CLOSE eye on coolant for (at least) a month or so of driving after refill.

Be aware that in addition to the air/vapour traps, the ($ 9?) level sensor is unreliable, pressure cap & seal are ridiculously fragile, and the temp sensors are in the wrong locations in the circuit, can easily end up not even in contact with a(ny) fluid whilst it is buildign up for a Yellowstone Park geyser emulation. One MAY get a warning hint if the temp guage is reading uncharacteristically COOL when it should be 'normal'.

Result is less than zero warning when any portion of the cooling system goes bat-borking-pear-shaped.

As they do.

'Get it PERFECTLY right' OTOH? The 4.2 NA V8 can go five-plus years w/o needing an ounce of refill.

The (synthetic) "rubber" // 'elastomer' hoses can often last well over ten years. The plastic bits? Not so lucky.

Figure 3 to 5 years and one is well into "dice roll' territory where they can fail any time, and with - or WITHOUT - warning.

Even so, the 4.2 needs those plastic bits renewed only about one-third as often as the far worse Charlie Fox 5.0l's alleged cooling system.

If I had but know the Jaguar 4.2 V8 had that much of an advantage over the 5.0l V8?

My 2011 L320 wudda been another MOPAR and an annual tour of Europe off the back of the money saved in service costs each year.

Learn and live...