This may be incorrect. The technical term is camshaft followers. Somebody please tell me they are all the same, all 32 of them.

 

The reason they should be kept in order, is the shim that sets the clearance between the camshaft and the valve stem tip. If you did not keep them in order, you will need to check with the cams installed, and on the base circle check clearance. Follow Valve Clearance Check 12.29.47

Intake 0.20+-0.02mm (0.008+-0.0008in.)
Exhaust 0.25+-0.02mm (0.010+-0.0008in.)

 

So the tappets are either intake or exhaust? They are not all different? BTW, the service book I have states that the clearance is 0.012-0.067 mm for intake and 0.02 - 0.075mm for exhaust

 

That clearance is between the valve stem in it's guide, NOT the tappet clearance.

The tappet buckets are all the same, the shim thickness is different, and used to set clearance between the cam lobe and the bucket. Setting is done while cold, so can be done while the head is off the vehicle.

 

Will hopefully start putting this all back together over the weekend. I'm seriously thinking of using sealant on the heads to go with the new gaskets, as I would hate to go through this again. Any opinions on if this is a good idea and if there's a worthy sealant out there?

Thanks, Mark

 

Years ago when I replaced several headgaskets instructions advised against using a sealant and that included an XJS set.

When seated properly and engine heat applied they "stick" hence the need to scrape the surfaces when taking old gaskets off.

 

Sealant not necessary.
As for the valve buckets, that's car mechanics 101.
Lay everything out in order and number it.
You now have to measure the gaps on every valve after you've put the cams back in and torqued them down.
This means that you are going to have the cams in and out multiple times to get the buckets in the right order and on the right side.
If you dont, the engine will rattle like hell, run like crap and throw multiple codes.

 

No sealant on head gaskets, EVER. You will have sealing issues guaranteed.

 

Going to put the heads back in this weekend. Was cleaning up the dirty parts, valve covers, intake manifold etc, noticed there was a lot of oil in the intake manifold. Does this mean I should change the PCV valve or is this normal?

 

You may have "less than efficient" piston rings. That combined with the PCV valve function causes oil products to recycle thru the inlet manifold.

It is argued in this forum that the EGR does NOT actually cause as much of a problem.

This problem is more prevalent with SC cars and that is the reason I have an oil catch can in the high load pcv line and it DOES catch quite a bit of oil.

I have also installed a snow stage 2 meth/water injection system not for performance but to try and keep carbon deposits at bay. That is why I was so interested in seeing what state the carbon build up in your engine was.

 

All that I can tell you was that the 1965 Pontiac Catalina was not using oil at all before the valves were ground on both heads, and that the 389 engine still had the original rings. In fact, I distinctly remember my father telling me at the time that the engine was going to use oil, and that I shouldn't be hard on the engine as that would only exacerbate the oil consumption. You know, I believe that my father ran into a similar situation sometime before, or that he knew someone who did. Otherwise, he would have never mentioned anything like that to me. Take my word for it. He knew.

 

Up to and into the 60's it was popular to use carbon steel rings which would wear more than the cylinder. In the late 70's and early 80's chrome flashed rings became the most popular, where the cylinder would wear more than the ring to extend engine life between rebuilds.

 

I can't ascertain what type of rings that the 1965 Pontiac Catalina actually had. However, during the early 1970s, aftermarket manufacturers did offer a choice between cast iron rings or chrome rings as for overhauling/rebuilding engines. Needless to say, cast iron rings (although considerably cheaper) would definitely not be recommended at all.

 

Can you please share some pics of your set ups. Feel free to PM them to me, thanks

 

Here are a few pics. The carbon on the throttle body, as well as in the charge coolers, drove me to make changes. All carbon was cleaned up prior to refitting my rebuilt SC including charge coolers.

 

Looks alot like the inside of my components. Might look into a catch can when I'm done here.

 

The oil catch can I have fitted is baffled which costs more however more effective.

 

Latest update.

Both heads are on. Used my harbor freight hoist to lower them into place, very easy using this method. Tried it manually at first, no chance, too awkward, heavy and my lower back was raging. I torqued the head bolts to spec and was surprised at how much less torque than when I pulled them off. The power steering pump and a/c compressor went on alot easier than they came off. For the AC compressor, you just have to raise and lower the motor to get at the bolt holes through the wheel arch. Waiting for a new thermostat housing as I noticed the old one was cracked yesterday. Anyone have any thoughts on torquing the crankshaft pulley bolt? I'm thinking of jamming the fly wheel but I'm a bit concerned about damaging it.

 

See post #9

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1790831

You will be replacing the flywheel if you try it your way.

 

Almost there. Most bits are back on. Having a bit of bother getting the oil dipstick pipe back in its hole. Anyone have a better method than probing around in the dark? Once I get this back in, I only have the radiator and fan left to do.